A $10, one hand adjustable, bridge

[John RB]

$10 of cord and two knots will make a no metal, no mechanical bridge, adjustable in both directions with one hand. I can't quote an exact strength but I believe it's as strong or stronger than the carabiners I put on my bridge. Sure, I could have gone with thicker cord and made stronger but i believe that would be overkill.

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[1simplemann]

John, I like the concept. one question. I run a low tether about belly button high so my tether is short and so is my bridge. Basically I stand on my platform. I have my friction knot on my bridge on the right side. If I pivot to my left, the knot sometimes hit's the carabiner and acts like a tender which lets out slack to my bridge. I've been looking for an alternative. With your method, if I pivot and it hits the biner, will it let out slack.

 

[John RB]

John, I like the concept. one question. I run a low tether about belly button high so my tether is short and so is my bridge. Basically I stand on my platform. I have my friction knot on my bridge on the right side. If I pivot to my left, the knot sometimes hit's the carabiner and acts like a tender which lets out slack to my bridge. I've been looking for an alternative. With your method, if I pivot and it hits the biner, will it let out slack.

In my testing, i can't get it to budge using body movement, no matter how snug i am running it.

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[raisins]

$10 of cord and two knots will make a no metal, no mechanical bridge, adjustable in both directions with one hand. I can't quote an exact strength but I believe it's as strong or stronger than the carabiners I put on my bridge. Sure, I could have gone with thicker cord and made stronger but i believe that would be overkill.

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can you think of a way to make this so that when weighted it stays put on the bridge loops (can run it high or low)? i'm thinking circle the bridge loops twice (not a prusik, just trace around twice so it can be fully loosen easily when you stand) might do it, but i don't understand the rope dynamics, having not tied this yet.

 

[Red Beard]

can you think of a way to make this so that when weighted it stays put on the bridge loops (can run it high or low)? i'm thinking circle the bridge loops twice (not a prusik, just trace around twice so it can be fully loosen easily when you stand) might do it, but i don't understand the rope dynamics, having not tied this yet.

Seems like looping around your bridge loops twice would create a constrictor effect like you're wanting.

 

[raisins]

Seems like looping around your bridge loops twice would create a constrictor effect like you're wanting.

yeah, just might not feed well through his system

 

[Red Beard]

yeah, just might not feed well through his system

Would only the lefthand side (using the orientation that he shows in the video) cause a problem? Could you instead run the two bridges though a prusik on the left bridge loop? Thinking the bends would be oriented so they grab the bridge loop itself and the open (non-constricting) end would be toward the two bridges.

 

[raisins]

Would only the lefthand side (using the orientation that he shows in the video) cause a problem? Could you instead run the two bridges though a prusik on the left bridge loop? Thinking the bends would be oriented so they grab the bridge loop itself and the open (non-constricting) end would be toward the two bridges.

good idea, do you mean this?

put prusiks on the bridge and leave a little loop coming up from the prusiks, then run the ropes as he showed it through those prusik loops instead of through the bridge loops

 

[Chrighton]

I don't like that sound of that soft on soft.

 

[John RB]

can you think of a way to make this so that when weighted it stays put on the bridge loops (can run it high or low)? i'm thinking circle the bridge loops twice (not a prusik, just trace around twice so it can be fully loosen easily when you stand) might do it, but i don't understand the rope dynamics, having not tied this yet.

It does exactly that as designed. It never moves. The slipped part of the blakes locks it there.

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[John RB]

good idea, do you mean this?

put prusiks on the bridge and leave a little loop coming up from the prusiks, then run the ropes as he showed it through those prusik loops instead of through the bridge loops

No modifications required... it stays put. It can't move.

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[Red Beard]

No modifications required... it stays put. It can't move.

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Think @raisins is talking about the lefthand side in your video.

 

[John RB]

Think @raisins is talking about the lefthand side in your video.

@raisins and @Red Beard ...
Sorry, I read it again and now i understand the question : Not specific to the blakes hitch, but relative to both sides, as demonstrated, the bridge is non cinching on the bridge loops and can be positioned high or low or have gravity put it where its balanced. He wants to know if there's a way to use the same design where the cord can flow to change length but have it stay put at one position on the loop, where he likes it for optimal comfort.

Good question. As i demonstrated, the answer would be no. To change that, we would need to introduce something on our bridge that stays in place, and allows the cord to pass through it. Using a small prussik is possible but i can't say i like the idea. I just don't wanna add something else that my life depends on. Plus, it will change the geometry of the bridge, making the working part much shorter.

Another option would be a quickie or delta that is somehow cinched to one spot with a clamp of some sort but allows the cord to freely travel.

Independent of this bridge, a year ago, i spent half of hunting season tinkering with this very question: how do i avoid the wedgie effect where my bridge is riding too high in the loops? I also sat in a few different Saddles to see if the effect was the same. It wasn't. In the end, my conclusion was that for any given saddle, dependent on its design and how wide it is and how much of our ass it covers, we may need to adjust the waist belt to ride lower in order for everything to balance out. And so on my FLEX, before I sit in my saddle, I have learned that I need to loosen the waist belt and have that thing ride down on my hips like a pair of pants that's ready to fall down. When I do that, I never have a problem with the bridge loops. When I sat in my buddies Cruzr XC, I didn't have to do anything... its just bigger than my Flez and covered so much more surface area that it was more naturally balanced.

And so, I've come to the conclusion that it's actually not our fault. It's deficiency in our saddle itself if we aren't comfortable in it as designed. Ideally, we shouldn't need to change the position of our waist belt. But if that's what's necessary to be comfortable, then of course we do it.

If anybody plays around this, that's cool, and pls post some pictures. But just make sure you're not introducing any thing which is introducing risk.

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[raisins]

@raisins and @Red Beard ...
Sorry, I read it again and now i understand the question : Not specific to the blakes hitch, but relative to both sides, as demonstrated, the bridge is non cinching on the bridge loops and can be positioned high or low or have gravity put it where its balanced. He wants to know if there's a way to use the same design where the cord can flow to change length but have it stay put at one position on the loop, where he likes it for optimal comfort.

Good question. As i demonstrated, the answer would be no. To change that, we would need to introduce something on our bridge that stays in place, and allows the cord to pass through it. Using a small prussik is possible but i can't say i like the idea. I just don't wanna add something else that my life depends on. Plus, it will change the geometry of the bridge, making the working part much shorter.

Another option would be a quickie or delta that is somehow cinched to one spot with a clamp of some sort but allows the cord to freely travel.

Independent of this bridge, a year ago, i spent half of hunting season tinkering with this very question: how do i avoid the wedgie effect where my bridge is riding too high in the loops? I also sat in a few different Saddles to see if the effect was the same. It wasn't. In the end, my conclusion was that for any given saddle, dependent on its design and how wide it is and how much of our ass it covers, we may need to adjust the waist belt to ride lower in order for everything to balance out. And so on my FLEX, before I sit in my saddle, I have learned that I need to loosen the waist belt and have that thing ride down on my hips like a pair of pants that's ready to fall down. When I do that, I never have a problem with the bridge loops. When I sat in my buddies Cruzr XC, I didn't have to do anything... its just bigger than my Flez and covered so much more surface area that it was more naturally balanced.

And so, I've come to the conclusion that it's actually not our fault. It's deficiency in our saddle itself if we aren't comfortable in it as designed. Ideally, we shouldn't need to change the position of our waist belt. But if that's what's necessary to be comfortable, then of course we do it.

If anybody plays around this, that's cool, and pls post some pictures. But just make sure you're not introducing any thing which is introducing risk.

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after thinking about it, adding the prusik loops is opposite of the design philosophy of this bridge (simple to tie and adjustable)

if i'm going to add prusiks, then i might as well attach those prusiks to a rope in the way found on the cruzr xc, and the way i do it now but with oplux and trc