Bitzenburger

[noxninja]

I don't think my fletching jig is putting enough helical on the arrow. How do I know if it is enough and how do I adjust my jig in order to achieve these results?

 

[swampsnyper]

Do you have a helical clamp or straight clamp?
Helical clamp wraps around the shaft so that the base of the quill is flat to the shaft for good glue adhesion.
A straight clamp and be offset a little using the adjustment knobs to help the arrow spin but too much offset and the feather quill won’t lay flat on the arrow shaft. Even more picky with skinny shaft arrows.

You only need enough helical to quickly start spinning the arrow to stabilize it. The more helical or offset the louder the arrow in flight and quicker it will slow down. I try to tune my arrow, broadhead and bow the best I can so arrow spinning isn’t as important to correct a poor flying arrow.

 

[Sipsey]

I don't think my fletching jig is putting enough helical on the arrow. How do I know if it is enough and how do I adjust my jig in order to achieve these results?

Sometimes the amount of helical, or degrees of offset will be determined by ones bow/arrow setup. The profile & vain length contributes a good deal also. Large fixed broadheads tend to require more, mechanical, very little. Proper arrow spine and bow/rest tuning go a long way towards decreasing the amount of offset or helical needed. In my old setup I shot mechanicals and used a straight jig, in the same jig you have, offset 2 degrees. I tuned my own bow and shot a lot of arrows. At 40yds. , on a good day, 5 arrows could be encircled by thumb & index finger. As previously stated, use only the amount necessary for good arrow flight. If you have time experiment with varying amounts of helical and use only the amount needed for consistent accuracy.

 

[noxninja]

Do you have a helical clamp or straight clamp?
Helical clamp wraps around the shaft so that the base of the quill is flat to the shaft for good glue adhesion.
A straight clamp and be offset a little using the adjustment knobs to help the arrow spin but too much offset and the feather quill won’t lay flat on the arrow shaft. Even more picky with skinny shaft arrows.

You only need enough helical to quickly start spinning the arrow to stabilize it. The more helical or offset the louder the arrow in flight and quicker it will slow down. I try to tune my arrow, broadhead and bow the best I can so arrow spinning isn’t as important to correct a poor flying arrow.

right clamp...it just looks like it is not as spiraled enough

 

[noxninja]

I bought some arrows this year that were already fletched with 4" shielded vanes. I fletched some 5" shielded and I can tell that the ones I did I can tell that they are spinning, but to look at them it does not appear to be as offset and looking at the 4" prefletched they seem to have even less

 

[swampsnyper]

The longer they are, the more the offset or helical wraps around the shaft.
There are 2 different right clamps, straight and helical. Offsets are made by adjusting the jig knobs, helical is made from the clamp but can also be offset with the adjustment knobs.

 

[Scott F]

I bought some arrows this year that were already fletched with 4" shielded vanes. I fletched some 5" shielded and I can tell that the ones I did I can tell that they are spinning, but to look at them it does not appear to be as offset and looking at the 4" prefletched they seem to have even less

Is your bow loud?
Pehaps you are closing your eyes when you release and cant see 'em spin!
Hahaha
Seriously though-
You should be able to crank on one of those allen bolds and twist that knob to impart more helical twist. Too much isnt necessarily better, keep that in mind, because 5" feathers with a severe twist is a whole lot of drag for that longbow to power through.
you should be able to lay a bare shaft in the jig and lay the clamp on the magnet to see where the fletch will go as you spin the dial. I used to flirt with extreme helical and got away with it because I only used fletch tape (GREAT stuff for feathers). Since you can remove the clamp without waiting for the glue to set up, you can finish pressing the fletch on the shaft with your fingers if the leading and trailing edges didnt stick because of the severe corkscrew.
Good luck.

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[hickstick]

1) an arrow dies not need to spin AT ALL to stabilize in flight. Fetching is added to the back of an arrow to slow it (the back end) down so the pointy end stays forward. Otherwise it would be trying to 'catch up' to the tip causing it to tumble in flight. (This is why you never bareshaft tune with broadheads...youd be slowing down the business end causing the Nick end to travel faster = erratic dangerous flight)

2) I don't own a blitz, I have a jojan and mostly do use helical as that was the clamp that came with the base when I bought it 18 years ago.



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[Apex7]

I have a blitz and burger Jig and it does depends on the size of the arrow shaft that you are using . On carbons you can only put so much helical on them because of the size of the shaft. I use blazer vanes and for hunting I put a helical fletch on them and for 3D use a straight clamp with a slight off set.

 

[Gettin Closer]

As mentioned above, you really do not need that much helical. I tried that route one time and it caused my Fletching to bump the side plate more than normal. This caused my arrow to behave differently from bare shaft tuning. I used to run (3) 5 inch Shield cut feathers. I know cut my 5-inch Shield Cuts flat on the back so that they are only 4 inches long. This makes them look like a missile. But I have started using four of them straight down the side of a skinny carbon Arrow. Since they are still right wing feathers, they will still cause the arrow to twist and spin slightly. This allows the feathers to not come between the arrow and the side plate. I get much better aeroflight this way. I also noticed that I am able to shoot 20 yards with my old 15-yard reference point. This tells me that the arrow is flying faster and more efficient now!

 

[MCDM]

@noxninja I have a right helical clamp which I primarily shoot blazer vanes. You should be able to adjust a little but dry fit with a arrow to make sure the base of the vane is contacting the shaft. The longer the vane the more the helical will appear. I have a slight bit of a helical but because there short vanes that hide it well. They fly well for me. Also if you index the vane further away from the nock you will also see more of a helical but this can change other flight variables as well.