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Broadheads: What are you using?

I tried montecs with mixed results. Been shooting grim reapers with great results. Bought some shuttle t's to try this year and they are flying great. Regardless of what I use I make sure they are scary sharp. Sharpness I think gets forgot in the age of marketing gimmicks. Lots of research on bleeding from sharp blades vs so so dull blades. Lansky works wonders. my 2 cents
 
I got my new arrows today freshly fletched and ready for some practice next week when I get my new sight put on.

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Regardless of what I use I make sure they are scary sharp. Sharpness I think gets forgot in the age of marketing gimmicks. Lots of research on bleeding from sharp blades vs so so dull blades. Lansky works wonders. my 2 :laughing:cents

I couldn't agree more. I've seen new blades right out of the package that wouldn't cut you. I'd be willing to bet that 90% of hunters don't even check blade sharpness on the new blades they purchase. Most assume that the blades are new, they must be sharp...
That is why I use blades that require me to sharpen myself and why I don't have a lot of hair on my left arm throughout bow season...:laughing:
 
I couldn't agree more. I've seen new blades right out of the package that wouldn't cut you. I'd be willing to bet that 90% of hunters don't even check blade sharpness on the new blades they purchase. Most assume that the blades are new, they must be sharp...
That is why I use blades that require me to sharpen myself and why I don't have a lot of hair on my left arm throughout bow season...:laughing:
I'd say I'm guilty of not checking. But I will be from now on.
 
Until I got into traditional archery, I never thought much about blade edges either. It did not take long to realize that sharp broadheads are what actually do the killing.....not the bow, not the arrow......the broadhead.
 
I continue to shoot 125 gr woodsmans with 125 gr steel inserts on full length 400 spine arrows out of my recurve.
I have a measured 30.5" draw and these heavy things dont usually slow down at all when they hit brown things under my tree.
I have been tempted to try others, but these sharpen easily and many have been through more than one animal.

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I shoot grim reapers also. But I do agree they are not exactly sharp out of the package. They also aren't the funnest things to sharpen but all of mine get sharpened and checked randomly.
 
I've always shot mx-3's, but can't get them to fly good with the bow I got last year so have been shooting grim reapers since. I would like to try slick tricks but haven't had time to pick any up.
 
I've always shot mx-3's, but can't get them to fly good with the bow I got last year so have been shooting grim reapers since. I would like to try slick tricks but haven't had time to pick any up.
Ended up swinging by Cabelas this afternoon and picking up some Dirtnap DRT's. Anyone ever used them? If so, what was the verdict on them?
 
I use NAP slingblades and they have been reliable. Sometimes I wonder about the sharpness of the blades because the deer seem to travel a long ways sometimes (100+ yards), even on great hits. I may try WASP or Rocky Mountain heads this year. I don't resharpen my heads so I look for affordable options since they are one and done for me.
 
A little sharpener is cheap insurance. I understand the one and done thing, but we still have to make sure that "one" is a good one. Most blister packed BH's are far from sharp out of the package.
 
NAP Killzones for me. One of the few I was able to find locally in 125 grain. Have yet to shoot them at a deer, but I'm sure interested to see the results!
 
A little sharpener is cheap insurance. I understand the one and done thing, but we still have to make sure that "one" is a good one. Most blister packed BH's are far from sharp out of the package.
Yeah you are right. I've just never learned how to sharpen a broadhead so I'm leery of doing it wrong. I don't want an injured animal due to a poor sharpening job. A YouTube video or two could probably fix that though.
 
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