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DIY Poorman's Range Finder and Wind Checker

rabidd099

rabidd099

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2016
Messages
240
Location
North Carolina
Used a protractor with a plum bob. Sight down the base of the protractor to a landmark in my lane, see what angle the plum bob reads, use that angle with my estimated height off the to get the distance from the cheat sheet taped to it (using Pythagorean theorem, I calculated the angles for every 5yds at 20, 25 and 30ft heights). Once I have a few known landmarks I test myself with other distances.

Wind checker is a itty-bitty hand sanitizer bottle, but I don't remember what I used for powder, just that it was odorless.

20171004_214043.jpg

Full Size Image
 
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rabidd099 said:
Used a protractor with a plum bob. Sight down the base of the protractor to a landmark in my lane, see what angle the plum bob reads, use that angle with my estimated height off the to get the distance from the cheat sheet taped to it (using Pythagorean theorem, I calculated the angles for every 5yds at 20, 25 and 30ft heights). Once I have a few known landmarks I test myself with other distances.

Wind checker is a itty-bitty hand sanitizer bottle, but I don't remember what I used for powder, just that it was odorless.

20171004_214043.jpg
Click to expand...
I have a range finder I'll send ya if you want it. Cool that you can do that an all, but range finders are lot easier. PM and we can work out details. Rick



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You are working too hard - but I like it! As a Marine Artilleryman, I sort of appreciate that type of basic math, but I like speed even more!

I recommend you look up "Dead On Rangefinder", I use the principle of that device on my riser for a very quick range reference. The gist of this system is that you know the relative size of the animal you want to shoot. Where I hunt, most deer are ~14" from the bottom of their belly to the top of their back. This doesn't change all that much (you can adjust this to suit the animals in your area), and minor differences in this measurement don't matter all that much for hunting distances - after all, while I aim for a deliberate 'spot' to hit, I have about an 8" area that will still be effective. Enough of that...

Go to a measured distance that you normally expect to achieve a hunting shot, for me it is 20 yards. Put a marker at this distance that corresponds with your animal's measurement. For me, I cut a cardboard box exactly 14" and set it at the end of the 20yard distance. Walk back to your start point so you are 20 yards from that 14" box and hold your bow out as if shooting next to it. Mark on the face of your riser the top and bottom of that 14" piece of cardboard. Be as accurate as your dadgum steady arm will allow. Here is the magic - if a deer walks close to my stand, as I get ready to shoot, I can move my bow a matter of inches to align the two marks with the top and belly of the deer. Assuming the deer fits the 14" average, if the deer is larger than the span of these two marks it is closer than 20 yards, if it is smaller that the two marks, it is obviously farther away.

Put as many marks on your bow as you deem necessary to correspond with other ranges - or different color marks to account for different species (deer/turkey/bear/clowns - whatever you are hunting)

I hunt exclusively with a recurve, and I gap shoot for targets. Why is this relevant? Because on my hunting riser I put a 1/8" strip of white electrical tape on the face of my riser that corresponds with my 20 yard gap. It is dead nuts. This strip of tape is what I align with the belly of a deer therefore I only need one other mark to account for a deer at 20 yards. I personally like a 30 yard mark as well because that is my self-imposed hunting distance. It sucks when they are 'just' smaller than that mark...

Make sense? I think you'll like it because it leaves both hands free to shoot - and takes the math step out of the woods.
 
My first rangefinder showed two images and you rotated the dial until they became one and you looked at the dial to get your reading. The protractor is probably just as effective. Makes me think of old school stuff like trail timers.
 
Scott F said:
You are working too hard - but I like it! As a Marine Artilleryman, I sort of appreciate that type of basic math, but I like speed even more!

I recommend you look up "Dead On Rangefinder", I use the principle of that device on my riser for a very quick range reference. The gist of this system is that you know the relative size of the animal you want to shoot. Where I hunt, most deer are ~14" from the bottom of their belly to the top of their back. This doesn't change all that much (you can adjust this to suit the animals in your area), and minor differences in this measurement don't matter all that much for hunting distances - after all, while I aim for a deliberate 'spot' to hit, I have about an 8" area that will still be effective. Enough of that...

Go to a measured distance that you normally expect to achieve a hunting shot, for me it is 20 yards. Put a marker at this distance that corresponds with your animal's measurement. For me, I cut a cardboard box exactly 14" and set it at the end of the 20yard distance. Walk back to your start point so you are 20 yards from that 14" box and hold your bow out as if shooting next to it. Mark on the face of your riser the top and bottom of that 14" piece of cardboard. Be as accurate as your dadgum steady arm will allow. Here is the magic - if a deer walks close to my stand, as I get ready to shoot, I can move my bow a matter of inches to align the two marks with the top and belly of the deer. Assuming the deer fits the 14" average, if the deer is larger than the span of these two marks it is closer than 20 yards, if it is smaller that the two marks, it is obviously farther away.

Put as many marks on your bow as you deem necessary to correspond with other ranges - or different color marks to account for different species (deer/turkey/bear/clowns - whatever you are hunting)

I hunt exclusively with a recurve, and I gap shoot for targets. Why is this relevant? Because on my hunting riser I put a 1/8" strip of white electrical tape on the face of my riser that corresponds with my 20 yard gap. It is dead nuts. This strip of tape is what I align with the belly of a deer therefore I only need one other mark to account for a deer at 20 yards. I personally like a 30 yard mark as well because that is my self-imposed hunting distance. It sucks when they are 'just' smaller than that mark...

Make sense? I think you'll like it because it leaves both hands free to shoot - and takes the math step out of the woods.
Click to expand...
Nice, did you train in Ft Sill? I remember running alongside marine artillery platoons and the DIs and Drill Sergeants turning it into a race...losing meant alot more PT.

I have a dead on range finder too! This was something I made before I bought a deadon, but I still carry it since it weighs next to nothing and takes no room also I don't have to have have a deer down range to be accurate with it. It's sort of a redundancy. If I get a different read I'll split the difference before I send it. Haven't missed yet.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
rabidd099 said:
Nice, did you train in Ft Sill? I remember running alongside marine artillery platoons and the DIs and Drill Sergeants turning it into a race...losing meant alot more PT.

I have a dead on range finder too! This was something I made before I bought a deadon, but I still carry it since it weighs next to nothing and takes no room also I don't have to have have a deer down range to be accurate with it. It's sort of a redundancy. If I get a different read I'll split the difference before I send it. Haven't missed yet.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yes, I was at Ft Sill as a 2ndLt and went back for remediation as a Captain back in '03.

I shot my first buck on Ft Sill, and my first hog.
There are some booners running around on that base.

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
 
EricS said:
My first rangefinder showed two images and you rotated the dial until they became one and you looked at the dial to get your reading. The protractor is probably just as effective. Makes me think of old school stuff like trail timers.
Click to expand...
I still have one of those!
I bought it in 1994 IIRC.
I need to break that bad boy out, it is just my speed...

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
 
I just broke down and bought a use range finder of Facebook. Well looked new, but battery was dead, paid 40$ and the numbers don't read good... now the guy is giving me a run around, and I don't have the extra cash for another one... the meaning is, unless you fully trust someone buy new.
 
Carcher87 said:
I just broke down and bought a use range finder of Facebook. Well looked new, but battery was dead, paid 40$ and the numbers don't read good... now the guy is giving me a run around, and I don't have the extra cash for another one... the meaning is, unless you fully trust someone buy new.
Click to expand...

I have had really good luck buying used stuff from ebay. The Sportsmanssuperstore is one seller in particular. I bought 12 used wildgame trail cameras last year for an average of about $12 a peice, I bought new HSS vests for less than $20. The only thing I have purchased that didn't work was a used range finder for $35. I emailed them and they refunded my money within the hour and told me to keep the range finder. My son plays with it now.
 
I admire people that can make stuff like this by themselves. I always wanted to be able to craft stuff like this but I could never do it. My father was good at it, but not me. Only thing I am good at is hunting and I always go with my father. He likes to set traps that he made himself while I hunt with a rifle. I use hunting rangefinder from ATN because I can't make one myself. It makes shots much easier to hit and it works fast. The cool thing is that you can connect it with your phone through ATN app and you can adjust everything on there. I really love their equipment because it is the best.
 
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This is why I like my ezv sight, Aaron over there figured that the vitals of most game is right there in that 13in mark. Then he did the math on the trajectory or arrows at different speeds and distance and figured out where the mark is.

He did all the math for me, all I have to do is line up vitals and let it fly
 
I don't know if it's scent free but i filled an empty wind checker with hi-vis orange chalkline chalk....it much easier to see in low light....
 
rabidd099 said:
Nice, did you train in Ft Sill? I remember running alongside marine artillery platoons and the DIs and Drill Sergeants turning it into a race...losing meant alot more PT.

I have a dead on range finder too! This was something I made before I bought a deadon, but I still carry it since it weighs next to nothing and takes no room also I don't have to have have a deer down range to be accurate with it. It's sort of a redundancy. If I get a different read I'll split the difference before I send it. Haven't missed yet.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

No worries of a dead rangefinder battery with that gem.
 
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