Hawk helium mods

[Erniepower]

Re: RE: Re: Hawk helium mods

Ernie I'm in the same boat as you. I use 3 LW sticks with 3 step aiders on each stick. I had to modify my lone wolf's with a double top step so I could max out my aiders. With a shorter Muddy stick I think 4 steps would be my max. Are you able to use the 5th step on your aider?

Not really. If I could hang the stick higher maybe, but generally it is just a few inches above the top of the previous muddy.

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[g2outdoors]

That's exactly what I was thinking. a 4 step aider would be sufficient, right?

I only have aiders on my LW sticks. They each have a 3 step aider. I've considered buying new aiders and attaching to my Muddy sticks since they pack a little better IMO.

Are you happy with the Muddy/aider combo?

 

[redsquirrel]

Guess I dont understand why its tougher? Dont whoopie it pursay, just put the main loop on, and run the typical rope over the button and back and half hitch. Super easy.

The webbing is thinner so I can slide it on easier than 2 1/4" amsteel loops. I can get them on, but I feel like there is more of a chance of me not getting them on all the way and popping off than with the webbing.

I agree that the rope mod with the thinner versa buttons would work. I have not gotten a chance to test it out yet, but until I do, I am hesitant. Amsteel is very slick and I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to tie knots in it because they can slip.

 

[DaveT1963]

Guess I dont understand why its tougher? Dont whoopie it pursay, just put the main loop on, and run the typical rope over the button and back and half hitch. Super easy.

The webbing is thinner so I can slide it on easier than 2 1/4" amsteel loops. I can get them on, but I feel like there is more of a chance of me not getting them on all the way and popping off than with the webbing.

I agree that the rope mod with the thinner versa buttons would work. I have not gotten a chance to test it out yet, but until I do, I am hesitant. Amsteel is very slick and I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to tie knots in it because they can slip.

I use Amsteel and have no problems with it at all. After three years I replaced them due to fraying. I hunt on a lot of really rough barked trees and thorn trees and after 3 years it was time. None of the inner cords were damaged but the outside had some fraying. I use a spliced loop and have no problems of them coming off the versa button.

 

[redsquirrel]

Guess I dont understand why its tougher? Dont whoopie it pursay, just put the main loop on, and run the typical rope over the button and back and half hitch. Super easy.

The webbing is thinner so I can slide it on easier than 2 1/4" amsteel loops. I can get them on, but I feel like there is more of a chance of me not getting them on all the way and popping off than with the webbing.

I agree that the rope mod with the thinner versa buttons would work. I have not gotten a chance to test it out yet, but until I do, I am hesitant. Amsteel is very slick and I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to tie knots in it because they can slip.

I use Amsteel and have no problems with it at all. After three years I replaced them due to fraying. I hunt on a lot of really rough barked trees and thorn trees and after 3 years it was time. None of the inner cords were damaged but the outside had some fraying. I use a spliced loop and have no problems of them coming off the versa button.

Thanks for the info Dave. When you say the inner cords do you just mean the threads of amsteel that aren't directly in contact with the bark? My amsteel is hollow (just like tubular webbing). If you are using something different can you post what you are using? Thanks.

 

[DaveT1963]

The webbing is thinner so I can slide it on easier than 2 1/4" amsteel loops. I can get them on, but I feel like there is more of a chance of me not getting them on all the way and popping off than with the webbing.

I agree that the rope mod with the thinner versa buttons would work. I have not gotten a chance to test it out yet, but until I do, I am hesitant. Amsteel is very slick and I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to tie knots in it because they can slip.

I use Amsteel and have no problems with it at all. After three years I replaced them due to fraying. I hunt on a lot of really rough barked trees and thorn trees and after 3 years it was time. None of the inner cords were damaged but the outside had some fraying. I use a spliced loop and have no problems of them coming off the versa button.

Thanks for the info Dave. When you say the inner cords do you just mean the threads of amsteel that aren't directly in contact with the bark? My amsteel is hollow (just like tubular webbing). If you are using something different can you post what you are using? Thanks.

I use Sterling Amsteel Blue which is like a braided rope. I was referring to the outside of the individual cords get frayed but no damaged to the actual cords (i.e. they are not severed) more like it just gets fuzzy if that makes sense?

 

[redsquirrel]

I use Amsteel and have no problems with it at all. After three years I replaced them due to fraying. I hunt on a lot of really rough barked trees and thorn trees and after 3 years it was time. None of the inner cords were damaged but the outside had some fraying. I use a spliced loop and have no problems of them coming off the versa button.

Thanks for the info Dave. When you say the inner cords do you just mean the threads of amsteel that aren't directly in contact with the bark? My amsteel is hollow (just like tubular webbing). If you are using something different can you post what you are using? Thanks.

I use Sterling Amsteel Blue which is like a braided rope. I was referring to the outside of the individual cords get frayed but no damaged to the actual cords (i.e. they are not severed) more like it just gets fuzzy if that makes sense?

Yes I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same stuff. Thanks again. I will give it a shot with the amsteel.

 

[kenn1320]

I use Amsteel and have no problems with it at all. After three years I replaced them due to fraying. I hunt on a lot of really rough barked trees and thorn trees and after 3 years it was time. None of the inner cords were damaged but the outside had some fraying. I use a spliced loop and have no problems of them coming off the versa button.

Dave did you do the splicing? Did you use a tool and just do the trick where you work it back into itself and the tension grabs itself?

 

[g2outdoors]

splicing amsteel is super easy to do without any special tools. Typically you just need some wire. Search youtube for splicing amsteel or making "whoopie slings" and you'll find tons of tutorials to get you squared away.

 

[redsquirrel]

Yes it is pretty easy. I did mine myself.

[youtube]klfl0TwVNak[/youtube]

 

[DaveT1963]

I use Amsteel and have no problems with it at all. After three years I replaced them due to fraying. I hunt on a lot of really rough barked trees and thorn trees and after 3 years it was time. None of the inner cords were damaged but the outside had some fraying. I use a spliced loop and have no problems of them coming off the versa button.

Dave did you do the splicing? Did you use a tool and just do the trick where you work it back into itself and the tension grabs itself?

Yes I did, I used the end of an old aluminum arrow (kind that came to a point and you glued the nock on). Splicing is easy. basically just pass both ends through once and then sink it inside the rope. Plenty of You Tube Tutorials as noted above.

 

[IkemanTX]

Finally got one of these puppies. I have a trip today for work, so no playing around with it until Wednesday. I foresee a lot of sewing in my future.


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[kenn1320]

Yep they work great, and with some practice you will get nice tight stitches. Ill give you a couple tips.
1. Pushing through thick material is asking to get poked. Be careful, but also support the material as close to the needle exit as you safely can.
2. When doing your withdrawl stitch, place a finger on the thread that goes along the handle and apply pressure. The force applied by the material on the needle/thread can cause more thread to pull out of the spool, leaving your stitch on the bottom lose. By applying the right amount of pressure you can tighten the stitch.
3. On the withdrawl stitch, try not to take the needle out more than about 1". You dont want excess thread, or your next "needle insert" will leave the top stitch lose.
4. Not sure if it matters, but on the underside when you run the tag line through the loop, I like to go the same way each stitch.

 

[IkemanTX]

Ya, I think I will do the aiders before moving on to that Molle saddle. I still have to get all the accessories and put them together. Anyone have a good source for carabiners? Hopefully I can pick up a ropeman too, so I don't have to deal with a prussic for the lineman's.


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[swampsnyper]

I have a 2x6 with a 3/8 hole drilled thru it. Thats where i push my needle down while supporting the material.

 

[IkemanTX]

first stitch is done! This is really easy, just time consuming.


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[g2outdoors]

The sewing awl is the bees knees!

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[IkemanTX]

Yes it is. My attempt at a Ken Molle Saddle.... Thanks again for the info guys!

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[essdub]

Re: RE: Re: Hawk helium mods

Yes it is. My attempt at a Ken Molle Saddle.... Thanks again for the info guys!

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Man that looks pretty sweet. Need pics/video in its natural habitat.

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[kenn1320]

Looks great! Make sure you dont cut off those 2 rectangles that have the straps, they give structure which is nice. Ill be curious to hear how this feels to you in the tree. You will want to run a second belt on the seat, it made a difference for me.