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Hawk helium mods

I don’t use amsteel. I did this so long ago I can’t remember what I trimmed. I do know the first buttons I made were way too short.
ok, does amsteel work ok with cam cleats?
 
For a cam cleat? Some sort of climbing rope.
I'm not decided yet if I want to go with a cam cleat or a versa button. I have some 9mm accessory cord I've used on my lone wolf sticks. Little heavy but it's worked great. I could use it for my Helium sticks too but I was hoping to use a lighter rope that packed tighter.
 
This thread has some old info on my sticks. I use 23 inch sticks (22 inch between steps) and I use 1 aider and carry it up as I go. I also now use regular versa buttons but counter sink the bolt head (use a spade bit to make the hole to where they sit flush. I originally drilled into sticks to seat them for stacking - I now use a small bit of exercise matting and tape it to bottom of stick. Now they sit on versa button and foam. Last, I still use amsteel 1/4 rope - I splice the loop as I don't like the big knots so many others use when going to rope mods. I replace my amsteel every year. I also do not stealth strip mine I simply spray paint them and just go slow when unpacking them. All these mods are outlined in my latest youtube vidoes. I have been modifying and using helium sticks since the day they came out and I still believe they are the best commercially available sticks out there.

I did try the cam cleat on sticks and I just do not think they give much advantage - certainly not worth the cost, weight and increase in stacking problems - but to each their own. I really don't think it takes much time or effort to pass the rope behind itself, wrap twice around the versa and throw in 2 half hitches - really was not that much more time consuming then the cam cleat mods.
 
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This thread has some old info on my sticks. I use 23 inch sticks (22 inch between steps) and I use 1 aider and carry it up as I go. I also now use regular versa buttons but counter sink the bolt head (use a spade bit to make the hole to where they sit flush. I originally drilled into sticks to seat them for stacking - I now use a small bit of exercise matting and tape it to bottom of stick. Now they sit on versa button and foam. Last, I still use amsteel 1/4 rope - I splice the loop as I don't like the big knots so many others use when going to rope mods. I replace my amsteel every year. I also do not stealth strip mine I simply spray paint them and just go slow when unpacking them. All these mods are outlined in my latest youtube vidoes. I have been modifying and using helium sticks since the day they came out and I still believe they are the best commercially available sticks out there.

I did try the cam cleat on sticks and I just do not think they give much advantage - certainly not worth the cost, weight and increase in stacking problems - but to each their own. I really don't think it takes much time or effort to pass the rope behind itself, wrap twice around the versa and throw in 2 half hitches - really was not that much more time consuming then the can cleat mods.

Thanks Dave.


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This thread has some old info on my sticks. I use 23 inch sticks (22 inch between steps) and I use 1 aider and carry it up as I go. I also now use regular versa buttons but counter sink the bolt head (use a spade bit to make the hole to where they sit flush. I originally drilled into sticks to seat them for stacking - I now use a small bit of exercise matting and tape it to bottom of stick. Now they sit on versa button and foam. Last, I still use amsteel 1/4 rope - I splice the loop as I don't like the big knots so many others use when going to rope mods. I replace my amsteel every year. I also do not stealth strip mine I simply spray paint them and just go slow when unpacking them. All these mods are outlined in my latest youtube vidoes. I have been modifying and using helium sticks since the day they came out and I still believe they are the best commercially available sticks out there.

I did try the cam cleat on sticks and I just do not think they give much advantage - certainly not worth the cost, weight and increase in stacking problems - but to each their own. I really don't think it takes much time or effort to pass the rope behind itself, wrap twice around the versa and throw in 2 half hitches - really was not that much more time consuming then the can cleat mods.

What length of Amsteel are you starting out with to make your ropes and how deep do you bury your splice? I'm figuring a 6'-7' rope should be plenty for almost all the trees I want to get into.


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What length of Amsteel are you starting out with to make your ropes and how deep do you bury your splice? I'm figuring a 6'-7' rope should be plenty for almost all the trees I want to get into.


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I bury it about 6-8 inches and mine are about 4-5 foot max in length. I don't hunt that many big trees.... if I do, I have a set of longer ropes made up for them.... I record those trees on my log

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I bury it about 6-8 inches and mine are about 4-5 foot max in length. I don't hunt that many big trees.... if I do, I have a set of longer ropes made up for them.... I record those trees on my log

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You're more than just another pretty face. Good idea.


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Link to stick mods


Original stick stacking mod video:

I cannot find my original video link as it was before I had a YouTube channel
 
Ernie I'm in the same boat as you. I use 3 LW sticks with 3 step aiders on each stick. I had to modify my lone wolf's with a double top step so I could max out my aiders. With a shorter Muddy stick I think 4 steps would be my max. Are you able to use the 5th step on your aider?
G2, where can I find the "double steps" for the Lone Wolfs? Thanks
 
I know this thread is pretty old, but I wanted t see if any of you guys have used the original Helium hook bracket (removed when doing the Versa-button conversion) and moving it over the bottom cleat? One could then put a small loop on either side to be used with knaider/swaider hook ups?
 
I know this thread is pretty old, but I wanted t see if any of you guys have used the original Helium hook bracket (removed when doing the Versa-button conversion) and moving it over the bottom cleat? One could then put a small loop on either side to be used with knaider/swaider hook ups?

Good option


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Staring at my Heliums that I cut down to 26" wondering why I wouldn't be just as well off if I cut them down to 15" or so...

I don't think @redsquirrel still uses them, but you got any reason for me not to do this?

@Bwhana didn't you run a very mini Helium?

For the moment, I would just have 3 sticks, but I think three mini Heliums plus my platform would get me 18'
 
Staring at my Heliums that I cut down to 26" wondering why I wouldn't be just as well off if I cut them down to 15" or so...

I don't think @redsquirrel still uses them, but you got any reason for me not to do this?

@Bwhana didn't you run a very mini Helium?

For the moment, I would just have 3 sticks, but I think three mini Heliums plus my platform would get me 18'

I just cut mine off right above the second set of steps and then drilled a hole for the standoff. I have been very pleased.
 
Staring at my Heliums that I cut down to 26" wondering why I wouldn't be just as well off if I cut them down to 15" or so...

I don't think @redsquirrel still uses them, but you got any reason for me not to do this?

@Bwhana didn't you run a very mini Helium?

For the moment, I would just have 3 sticks, but I think three mini Heliums plus my platform would get me 18'
I didn't like too mini of a stick. I had the 17" leverages for a while and they were too short. I was using either an aider or a knaider with them and it was an awkward height to grab the stick in front of my chest rather than above my head to pull me up. Also if you cut the sticks to 15" you'll probably only have a 12" step distance.
 
Yeah, it'd be whatever the 2019 Helium Stick cut down to only the top two steps. So overall would be 15 to 18 inches.

So mini sticks might be nice to pack but not so comfortable in practice?
 
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