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Right knot to use?

noxninja

noxninja

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2015
Messages
1,388
So I am working on a variation of the preachers seat that I call the deacons bench. I have 4 slits on the seat that I have ran two pieces of 1" tubular webbing through for the bridge. I tied a n overhand knot on the bottom. I did some research on the internet and a climbing site said this would be best. What do my saddle brothers say?
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You really want continuous loops of webbing. Don't want your preachers seat to turn into a Judgement chair. The wood may never break but with a continuous loop you should be ok even if it does. I also felt like a continuous loop would allow you to use thinner plywood with the strap supporting the plywood when under a load.
 
Listen to @Eric S.

My last seat like this was made with 1/2" plywood and I feel safe in it; I've hunted with it a number of times for hours at a time.
The key (and critical safety feature IMHO) is to run the webbing in the exact opposite direction than how your webbing appears to me.
The webbing should run under your @ss, on top of the wooden preacher seat. If the wood snaps, you'll still have two strips of webbing to catch you.

If you use one piece of webbing you can tie it with a single water knot. You don't need any knots near the holes of your board. I actually prefer to shape the board's slots so that I can slide the webbing through it when in the stand. It helps you find the balance point based on the tree's leaning angle, tether height, etc.
 
I used 3/4 ply on the one I currently have. It's heavy compared to a sit drag. I'm larger than the average saddler but I'm not a fan of running the webbing on top of the seat. That leaves small pieces of ply on the edge of the seat to hold your weight. My next one will be built using 1/4 ply with the webbing ran under the seat. I don't think it would break because it will only flex so much before the webbing is holding the weight.
 
justsomedude said:
Are you joining the pieces or just ending it at the hole?
When I made mine, I joined them so I had complete loops of webbing going under me so I used "Water Knots" (they are joined overhand knots)
http://www.animatedknots.com/waterknot/
Click to expand...
I only had two pieces of tubular webbing that I robbed from my sit drag (time to call up REI). I figured that i would need it to be longer to do the webbing as everyone has stated. I also should have mentioned that I am going to have a rock climbing harness (thanks EricS!) on to the main tether and will have another biner to the bridge so once I get to climbing height I will just take the platform off my back, clip into the main tether and sit down on the platform...keeping in mind this is all speculative as my rock climbing harness has not arrived yet.

One thing that I did notice on the deacons bench was that my slits on the front seemed a little too close to my thigh...not a bad bind, and probably not something that would cause much discomfort during a hunt as I would alternate between sitting and leaning. If I were to make another one I would probably move those slits a little more away from their current position.

1/2" plywood would be a really interesting thickness to try as it would definitely shave some weight. I agree with limited flex under load especially with the webbing oriented as you say.
 
I agree with EricS on the routing. My webbing runs through the slots and finishes under the 1/2" plywood seat with ends joined by machine sewing. :) IMO, 3/4" plywood is definitely overkill. I'm 225# :eek: and the 1/2" plywood doesn't seem to flex at all.
 
SO the way I did mine...the webbing sits on the outside edge of the plywood (no leg pinch!!) and then loops back up under the cushion and all the way across like others here are suggesting. I set it where the knots were nearer to the edges and the cushion covered up the webbing
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I did the same as justsomedude minus the tree stand off section.
My board was just a square with rounded corners and edges.
I also filed the webbing slots to relieve stress on the webbing and make it easier to slide the webbing through the seat.

My seat is visually ugly; functionally beautiful!

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justsomedude said:
SO the way I did mine...the webbing sits on the outside edge of the plywood (no leg pinch!!) and then loops back up under the cushion and all the way across like others here are suggesting. I set it where the knots were nearer to the edges and the cushion covered up the webbing
View attachment 2582
Click to expand...
I am so going to reroute to the outside!!! as this will definitely give me the relief that I need! I may have to go to the other piece of webbing that I have and remove the tubular in order to have enough. not to mention make my slits bigger!

Once difference between the preachers seat and the deacons bench is proximity to the tree is closer...which may change with modification...still debating that one.
 
justsomedude said:
SO the way I did mine...the webbing sits on the outside edge of the plywood (no leg pinch!!) and then loops back up under the cushion and all the way across like others here are suggesting. I set it where the knots were nearer to the edges and the cushion covered up the webbing
View attachment 2582
Click to expand...
and this is one single strap? If so I think I have just the ticket!!
 
My last hard seat was just the opposite, I wanted to have a hard seat that would be easier to put on at the top of my sticks. Prior to this I had to either wear the thing while climbing the sticks and this was too noisy because it clinked and clanked on each LW stick...
My next alternative was to haul it up after I got to the top of my sticks - this was MUCH better in my opinion, but I didn't like the dance I had to do at the top of my stick when trying to slip this thing over my head/shoulders. I was always afraid I would end up hanging myself.
The last thing I did was to remove the webbing and reinsert it the way it is positioned now. If I laid this out on the ground it would look like a butterfly: the base is the body, and the webbing would be the thing's wings. This enabled me to haul it up to my stand location, connect one side to my biner, then pull it around my @$$ and connect the other side.

This was all harder than it should be, because I still use a single-step climbing stick. If I had a dual-step top stick, it would be much simpler.
 
justsomedude said:
SO the way I did mine...the webbing sits on the outside edge of the plywood (no leg pinch!!) and then loops back up under the cushion and all the way across like others here are suggesting. I set it where the knots were nearer to the edges and the cushion covered up the webbing
View attachment 2582
Click to expand...

Would you please take a picture of the topside and post?


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justsomedude said:
I did two straps...both going through the carabiner like a double bridge
Click to expand...
Update on the deacons bench...I rerouted the tubular webbing as suggested and it worked! I still had to lengthen the bridge just a bit but for comfort that is just fine with me! I also went to the shop this morning and made another whale tail for it that is about 2" longer than the original so that should put me where I need to be. I didn't have my tether in the shop so I didn't get to give it a test drive, but I am feeling pretty confident that it is going to work just fine. I will keep you posted hopefully next time with pics!
 
IMG_2890.JPG Leatherwall lost all their old photos... I have this one.
The webbing goes over the edge (sanded smooth!) and comes back up under the cushion. Tied water knots under the cushion. I was able to rotate freely just like a saddle
 
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