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Sitdrag vs Kestral

Another good reason I switched to the ropeman bridge. You can tighten it up for walking/climbing/rapelling, and open it up sitting. The only regret I have is I bought the rope too long and can't decide where or bring myself to cut it...
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Adjustable bridge is ideal for SRT. Shorter the bridge the bigger the move.

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As much as I love my kestrel I still wish I could reduce the bulk of all the necessary gear. Right now my linemans belt, tree tether, and bridge amount to the same amount of bulk as the saddle itself.

In the off season i'm going to experiment with some mods to reduce the bulk considerably. I'm thinking fixed webbing bridge, possible webbing tether with sewn loops, and smaller DIA linemans belt. And there are entirely too many caribiners in the setup as well. 1 for the tether, one for the bridge, 2 for the linemans belt (could tie it off, but it's nice to be able to remove it completely.

I wish I had industrial sewing capability as I would simply buy bulk webbing and have someone sew up a John E style harness for me to play with. My mother is quite the seamtress, but has never done anything heavy duty... hmmm
 
I have a Singer Heavy duty machine I got on Amazon for $100. I've sewn up to three layers of seat belt webbing with no problems.

It would be VERY easy to sew an Eberhart style sling. I know for a fact you could do the whole project in less than 45 minutes.

Also, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out sewing. Watch some YT videos and practice on an old t-shirt. You'll have it figured out in no time. I'm self taught via YT and I do pretty good now.

Also, it goes without saying, you take your life in your hands by sewing your own gear. Be smart about it.
 
Ok new guy here can someone break down the Sit Drag in use?

I’ve watched G2’s video but still don’t understand how this band of material provides any safety benefits? What holds you end when “Murphy” comes calling?
 
Ok new guy here can someone break down the Sit Drag in use?

I’ve watched G2’s video but still don’t understand how this band of material provides any safety benefits? What holds you end when “Murphy” comes calling?
Majority of guys also have a rock climbing harness on a slack prussic (or something similar) that will catch them if something murphies with the sitdrag. Sitdrag is more comfortable sitting in than the rock harness, so they are a great team when ya find a rch you like.
A RCH will also tend to be more comfortable for some of the crazier climbing methods and rappelling.
 
actually saddles are not hard to size if people are told how to fit them and the measurements are given. What is important is to keep in mind where the FIXED loops are. You want them to extend past you hips not at your hips. Same with lineman's belt - if you don't then the hardware, sewing, double layers, knots, etc will contact the hip area and cause pain.

As far as comfort, if you want to sit all day and use a high hook up go ahead - but I have never found lasting comfort with that set upand it PROMOTES hip pinch as the weight forces the saddle to squeeze at your hips (and it doesn't matter where the loops are) only wayt to get around that is to use a spreader or board to move the pressure point out past the hips.

A lower hook up, and pushing away from the tree (i.e. leaners) it takes some of the weight off the hips and reduces pressure. This is basic physical science.

And as far as leaners giving up mobility on a tree (recent video I watched on youtube) take everything with a grain of salt. If I was to use a ring of steps (which I choose not to) and with how I hook up to tree, I can walk circles around my tree for as many reps as I want (because my tether is at chin level and I can easily move it around the tree as I go. The point missed in that video is that the reason why many of us moved to using platforms is so we DON'T HAVE TO WALK AROUND the tree - i.e. we choose to limit the motion ON PURPOSE. But I guarantee you there is not a shot a "ring walker" can take I can also take with my set up.... and I say with far less movement. I don't have comfort issues with a saddle - I sure used to sitting and with a high tether connection. And from reading most of the hunts stories, you will find most sitters very seldom stay for an entire day hunt - I usually stay the entire day which for me is in stand before 6:00 AM and out after 7:00PM in Nov - Oct it is even a longer day.

The other day I forgot my rubber boots so I had to hunt from my saddle with common loafers with no firm foot sole. I hunted for over 13 hours and never had any foot pain.

This describes my experience to a “T”.
I didn’t have the money for a commercially made saddle when I found out about saddle hunting, so I bought and modified a sit drag. You don’t sit in that thing.... ever. That is a leaning device. I have had zero issues with the leaning position in my sit drag. My longest sit so far is 7 hours, but I’m pretty sure I could have gone several more.

The tie in points sit well in front of my hips, so there is no bulk at my sides. My waist belt (that I sewed in) separates from the sit drag exactly as my hips separate from the saddle so as not to add to hip pinch. And, I am able to slowly shift between foot positions to reduce foot fatigue.

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE my sit drag because it fits perfectly. Fit means everything.


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Ok new guy here can someone break down the Sit Drag in use?

I’ve watched G2’s video but still don’t understand how this band of material provides any safety benefits? What holds you end when “Murphy” comes calling?

Myself and a few others do not use a harness with our sit drags... for liability reasons, I always tell people not to do it like I do.
Now that THAT is out of the way, I’ll tell you how I do it and why it works.

I took the straps that came with it and cut them up to be utilized on the saddle.

The 2” strap got turned into a waist band. The buckle was quickly switched to a metal cobra buckle for strength.
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The 1” straps got turned into molle webbing and tie in loops.
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The waist band is almost exclusively to keep the sit drag on my waist while I walk in and climb. If you fall, the sit drag pinches and squeezes you into itself. You can literally get upside down in it without falling out. (Ask me how I know). You use the sit drag as something to lean into, almost like leaning against a counter. This reduces some of the weight on your feet and is very comfortable.



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Ok new guy here can someone break down the Sit Drag in use?

I’ve watched G2’s video but still don’t understand how this band of material provides any safety benefits? What holds you end when “Murphy” comes calling?
No modification can save you when "Murphy" comes calling. Murphy's Law supersedes everything else in the universe......unfortunately!
 
Myself and a few others do not use a harness with our sit drags... for liability reasons, I always tell people not to do it like I do.
Now that THAT is out of the way, I’ll tell you how I do it and why it works.

I took the straps that came with it and cut them up to be utilized on the saddle.

The 2” strap got turned into a waist band. The buckle was quickly switched to a metal cobra buckle for strength.
7ebc4afce881160ff1ffc824f466eaa8.jpg


The 1” straps got turned into molle webbing and tie in loops.
5bb3d2a32845c626d1ae4420b72c5438.jpg


The waist band is almost exclusively to keep the sit drag on my waist while I walk in and climb. If you fall, the sit drag pinches and squeezes you into itself. You can literally get upside down in it without falling out. (Ask me how I know). You use the sit drag as something to lean into, almost like leaning against a counter. This reduces some of the weight on your feet and is very comfortable.



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Thanks for the explanation! Still I think I would
 
Thanks for the explanation! Still I think I would

I definitely recommend the RC harness. It isn’t much weight and takes all the risk out of the sit drag. I am just fully comfortable with my design, sewing, and my previous experiences with my rig. So, the additional cost and inconvenience of an RC harness (for me) isn’t worth it at this point.


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My last reply was cut off... I meant to finish that sentence with "still I think i would need to practice with it low to the ground and gain confidence prior to using it at hunting higth"

Thanks guys.
 
My last reply was cut off... I meant to finish that sentence with "still I think i would need to practice with it low to the ground and gain confidence prior to using it at hunting higth"

You are ABSOLUTELY correct! You need to practice with whatever system you use (SD, Kestrel, Guidos, ec.) at ground level to gain confidence and learn the skills needed to maneuver around the tree.
 
I have used just about every saddle out there at some point. All of them have pros and cons.

I used the kestrel for most of this season. It is great tool if you want to combine a hunting tool (saddle) with a fall restraint device. I don't.

I personally am going back to a minimalist saddle of my own design (taken from studying John E's saddle) that has a sole purpose: to be an efficient hunting tool that allows me to get the most shots off with as little movement and noise as possible. I add a very lightweight (under 1 pound) rock harness as a fall restraint device. My saddle allows me to rotate it in and to adjust it so I can make just about any shot I encounter. It does not have a lot of comfort features - it is a hunting tool. But I can and do lean/sit all day with no problem.

My approach is not for everyone that's for sure. But my entire saddle, rock harness, lineman's belt and tether fit into a small pouch on the side of my pack. My platform fits inside my pack and my three sticks are now latched to my pack. My total set up for sticks, foot aider, saddle, rock harness, platform and tether is right at 13 pounds.... but more importantly, it allows me 360 shooting with far less movement, and far more balance/gravity control without using my hands, than a ring of steps. I can add the top of my third stick for really big trees to allow for shooting for directly behind it (which I never had to do this entire season).

My climbing system easily allows me to reach 20 foot which I seldom go past) but I can alter and use a one stick climbing if I want to get additional height - I seldom need to.

Not knocking anyone else's preferences, but when someone declares this is the best way I usually laugh a little and move on. There is no one single best way. Use the tool that meets your purpose, meets your safety requirements, and is an asset to the way you hunt. For me, I want a simple system, that can be carried in a pack, cuts down on noise and movement, is safe, and allows me to get off unplanned shots (I still have not trained deer to walk where I think they should - especially old bucks). I want it to be universal in that I can use it in any tree I encounter while I hunt/scout. I am always seeking for new and improved methods and tools but they have to meet my requirements listed above or it doesn't make it past the trail and error.

As far as comfort - I think it takes some hours in a saddle to build up your core muscles. I use mine throughout the year (scouting, setting up cameras, prepping trees, and shooting).... I also practice my climbing a lot during the off season so I can do it in the dark or with just a very faint red glow type head lamp. When hunting I slow way down, take my time and try my best to climb trees totally undetected. Since I hunt a lot of doe bedding areas in Nov I cannot tell you how many does I have had bedded within 50 yards of me as I climb a tree. In fact I have had numerous deer walk by my tree while I was climbing it. Once I leave the ground the only thing I have on a haul line is my bow.

I have eliminated individual foot aiders on sticks as I had two different bucks get nervous and alter their course last year when they saw them fluttering in the wind. I now use one and it goes up with me and then in the pack. I spend an enormous amount of time working out my approach to stand. I carry pruners with me and a saw so that when and if I find hot sign I pick the right tree and I get in it.

So I encourage everyone try some things. Don't become closed minded. take everything stated on the forums as a starting point and with a grain of salt. Write a list of the attributes you want in your saddle system and then use some problem solving to pick out what will work best for you. Some might need more comfort - so use a back band, wood seat, etc.... whatever it takes. Trust me when I say that no one has the right solution - they have the right solution for them.

So if you back is hurting after a hunt - trouble shoot why. if your feet get sore - trouble shoot why, if you get busted moving - trouble shoot why.... That is how you will perfect "your system" for you... lots of options and info these days.

Shoot straight.

Awesome point. I believe we should all think like this
 
I have never felt like I was sliding out of the SitDrag and I have a few hundred hours in it. I sew a belt to mine, that may be the big difference. I've never hunted a SD without a belt.

You leave your belt buckled the entire time?
 
You leave your belt buckled the entire time?
I do. I loosen it way up once I'm setup, but I don't want the buckles flailing around. I'm a sh1tty enough hunter. I don't need buckles banging around making me even sh1ttier.

Sent from my Galaxy S8.
 
My last reply was cut off... I meant to finish that sentence with "still I think i would need to practice with it low to the ground and gain confidence prior to using it at hunting higth"

Thanks guys.

This is my first season in a saddle. And I do wear a RC harness with my sitdrag. But it took me all of about 30 minutes just off the ground to become comfortable and I went on to hunting height. Now I'm still trying to figure out the most comfortable positions but I've made 6 and 7 hour hunts in it. I was hurting by the end of it but I'm figuring it out.
 
This is my first season in a saddle. And I do wear a RC harness with my sitdrag. But it took me all of about 30 minutes just off the ground to become comfortable and I went on to hunting height. Now I'm still trying to figure out the most comfortable positions but I've made 6 and 7 hour hunts in it. I was hurting by the end of it but I'm figuring it out.

The trick is to lean..... not sit. My feet are the hardest part, but I quickly figured out how to transfer weight between several foot positions.


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