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Traditional bow draw weight recomendations

deleted_user01

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Nov 12, 2016
Messages
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I haven't pulled the trigger on a trad recurve yet. I currently shoot 60lbs draw/ 80°/° let-off on my compound. Been thinking 35-40 lb draw for the trad bow to start building the basic fundamentals.
But for hunting weight, I will only be hunting whitetails, turkey, small game, and bowfishing.
Do you trad hunters believe in a minimum draw weight required for whitetail sized game...?
I realize proficiency in accuracy is first priority . Been bowhunting 39 years and have also taken small game, fish, and many deer with compound bows.
Like to hear what your opinions are on draw weight please...
 
I am curious also. I have a bear 45# draw I have killed many, many animals with it over my lifetime but never hunted deer with it.


Sent from my
Sit drag, Ernie's outdoors linesman belt,
At 20' up
 
My home's State regulation has been lowered to 30lb draw weight from a 40lb from years ago. If memory serves me; when I became interested in archery 39+ years ago I believe it was 45@ a 28" draw....?!?!?!
I'm leaning towards that number( 45@ 28") if it works out for me. I stopped at a pro shop last week to get measured for a trad bow and found shooting with fingers (tab)' my dl was 29 3/8".
I was told most stock production bows are weighed @ a 28" standard. This equates to a 35lb bow pulling approximately 37-38 lbs with my dl.
Still waiting to hear some opinions for whitetail sized game.
I don't plan the 30 min weight requirement as that is based on modern equipment with more speed and kinetic energy.
 
Your state my have minimum weight requirements so that would be the first thing I'd check. The lower minimum that most states have gone to ae because of compound bows. A 30 pound compound bow is much more powerful than a 30 pound traditional bow.
The whole key is, shoot a bow that you feel comfortable shooting. Your draw length will likely shorten as the draw weight goes up. A 40# bow will easily kill a deer provided the shot placement is good and is probably the minimum I'd go with. When I was younger i shot a 58# longbow comfortably after shooting a 70 compound for years. As I've gotten older I've had to drop weight and now shoot a 51# recurve. If you can possibly attend a traditional bow shoot, I'd advise you do so so you can try out numerous bows and see what feels best to you.
 
As stated above, make sure your state does not have a minimum weight. Having said that, you are 100% correct, accuracy and proficentcy are #1. If you shoot a 35# bow, your game just has to be closer than if you had a 50# bow. It makes sense.

Whatever you do, do not over bow yourself when starting off. Get something cheap with interchangeable limbs like a sage samick. Start at 35# then go up. People are always trading those limbs out to go up and down in weight. As you learn to shoot, focus on form and taking your time. I started off with too much bow and built a bad habit of rushing my shots as I could not hold it back for long. Now, I have to force myself to slow down to make accurate shots... otherwise I might hit bullseye or I might hit the broad side of a barn of I am lucky. I would start at 30 to 35# and go up in 5# increments. I know lots of guys that hunt with a 40# recurve and love them most people find that 45# is comfortable to shoot frequently and have the penetration power. I personally like the 50 to 55# range as I prefer very heavy arrows and that is my comfort range. (Some are he man and like the 90# plus recurves... I think they want shoulder surgery..) in my mind, minimum would be a 35# recurve with a well tuned arrow out to 7 yards or 40# recurve out to 12 yrs for the speed, power, penetration expected on a ducking animal like a deer.

But that is just my opinion.
 
ILF with 2 sets of limbs is the best option overall.
There is a big difference between 35 and 45 pound draw weight. The draw weight changes depending upon the length of the riser.

Long limbs and a 17" riser makes a 62" bow. Best bet is to stay at 60"+

TradTech limbs are a great deal. SF Axiom plus are a GREAT value for your lightweight training limbs.
Stick on a Bear Weatherest and get a BCY-X string from Stilldub on eBay.
 
I personally would recommend at a minimum of 45#. The trend these days is to go lighter but I've the decades convinced me that 45 and up is far better. I personally shoot 55 and over. And yes it takes some dedication, you can't just pick up at red bow and expect to be worth of hoot in 2 months it's something you should be doing all year long. There is no reason an average size man cannot easily handle a 55 pound bow. Especially if he is shooting year round. Besides penetration the heavier draw weight also makes for a much cleaner release which can be crucial during hunting season with cold hands. I would not start off with a 55 pound bow, but I would certainly put forth the effort to work up to a heavier poundage bow. Well I haven't shut your round with a 70 pound bow and over, I frequently grab one of my many heavyweight bows and shoot with no problems dot dot dot and I am 54 years old and have been doing this for over 30 years and my shoulders and elbows are fine. I think most get into shoulder problems from horse shooting technique, and not enough consistent practice throughout the course of the year. Like I said you can get by with 35 pounds with today's modern bows, but I wouldn't go that light personally.
 
I'm currently reading a book by a local bow hunting legend.( the one who's stand I copied) First, one needs to know that for many years my state allowed 2 deer per day from Oct. 15-Jan.31. This local Dr. has been a serious hunter for several decades and has put on seminars with Fred Bear in years past. He uses a 50lb. bow and has taken 2 deer per sit on many occasions. He has taken over 1,000 deer and his credentials are impeccable. He states there is no need for a heavier poundage, though everyone has their preferences. Howard Hil was famous for his 90lb. longbow and occasionally would shoot a bow pulling 160lb. (A record for that time)
 
I still suggest you attend a traditional bow shoot if possible and find something that is comfortable for you. There will be racks of used bows pirced from $50 on up as well as many new bows that can be purchased off the rack or custom made. Shoot 'em all and find what you like...
 
To start nothing more than 45lbs at your draw length. Look into something like the Samick sage, cheap but functions, this will let you decided if you like the trad route, you can get heavier limbs for them or upgrade if you decide its for you. The WORST thing you can do is start with a bow that is to heavy.
Form is critical with trad bows, starting heavy will cause HUGE problems for that. Best bet is to start in that 35-45lb range with a bow and start out blank bailing, hundreds of shots feet away with your eyes closed.
A good podcast to listen to is "The Push" they go over some good stuff on there.

I am having to go back down in weight, post shoulder injury. I just don't feel like I am able to get the same shot I had before.

Thanks,
Boswell
 
I shot 70-80 with my compounds and Both my longbow and recurve are 54lb @28", but I shoot 26.5-27" draw.

I think 45lb to 55lb is a good range for whitetails for most guys.
 
I do not think bow weight is the primary problem for why people develop bad form when starting in traditional archery. There is absolutely no reason why the average sized adult male, even a small statured male, cannot fully handle a 50 pound bow. The problem of why people develop poor form when starting with a heavier weight bow is because they never learn to use back muscles and are relying on arm muscles which will always make your form go to pot. Highly recommend watching Jeff k videos on YouTube.

Here is one that deal specifically with back muscles and that tip he gives of having someone place a little pressure against your drawing elbow will definitely teach the novice how to engage back muscles properly. If you learn to use your back muscle to draw bow and there is absolutely no reason to go with super lightweight bows for hunting.

 
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