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Trick for One-Sticking

sb220

sb220

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Messages
703
Location
VA
Decided to try one sticking for the first time today. Since I really liked using a daisy-chain strap with my platform I decided to use it for a stick also.
Realized that I could release the strap from the top or bottom of the stick by lifting, turning and maybe a little shake. A piece of paracord tied to my top step allowed me to pull the stick up, grab it and release the strap, eliminating the need to climb back down to the versa button.

This is a loose chain I made tying a few overhands into a long sling. Those metolius chains would probably work nicely too
 
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So I re-tied my sling with some tighter loops and a "fine-tune" loop on the fixed end. Judging by my 40' rap rope I got to 30-35 foot in ten minutes passing two limbs.
Using a double top step to place my tether as high as I can reach, cinching up my ropeman and then reaching down to release my stick. Soles of my feet are gaining 7ish feet with each move of the stick.
3rd time doing one stick but I'm a vet at stick/aiders, but this is a lot faster and easier than I imagined it would be
 
sb220 said:
So I re-tied my sling with some tighter loops and a "fine-tune" loop on the fixed end. Judging by my 40' rap rope I got to 30-35 foot in ten minutes passing two limbs.
Using a double top step to place my tether as high as I can reach, cinching up my ropeman and then reaching down to release my stick. Soles of my feet are gaining 7ish feet with each move of the stick.
3rd time doing one stick but I'm a vet at stick/aiders, but this is a lot faster and easier than I imagined it would be
Click to expand...

Very Interesting!!! So do you need the tension on the rope connecting the stick to be rather loose so you can pull up stick by the paracord? I assume in order to twist the stick for the rope to slip off you are grabbing the stick and twisting not using the paracord to twist?
 
yeah I ditched the paracord tether. Standing on the top steps and cinching up my ropeman I am able to just reach down and grab the top of the stick still. If I drop the stick Ive got a back up aider/sling in my pack and my rappel stuff. But between the stick strap, your tether and your bow rope....trying to work another line in there gets "complicated"

Each move of the stick is limited by how high you can place your tether. I can hang my stick higher than my tether, but since its faster to just slide the tether up the tree vs taking it completely off, I have to hang my stick just below it so I want the stick to settle as little as possible. So getting it on the tightest loop possible seems best and doesn't hinder working it off the loop from above so far.

Still you get those diameters that are simply between your loops, so Ive made a couple small loops on the fixed side of the strap to try and adjust length. My fixed loop is so small I had to unscrew the versa buttonto get it on, so that stays on. Then I would just place the adjustment loop over that on the button and then around the tree and then the loop on the other end of the strap.
Also wondering if it would just be easier to double wrap a loose loop to tighten it up, which depends on it not getting fouled up trying to unwrap it.

Ive only seen a couple videos of one sticking and both of them are a two step forward, one step back.

This really eliminates that step back and instead of gaining 4 feet like it seems in those videos I'm gaining as high as I can place my tether which is around 7 feet
 
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I wonder if you could do this with a muddy short cam lock stick. Just don't tie a knot on the other side of the cam. If you are tethered you cannot fall if the stick lets go. I have aiders on my muddy sticks so you should gain 7 feet per stick​
 
Ontariofarmer said:
I wonder if you could do this with a muddy short cam lock stick. Just don't tie a knot on the other side of the cam. If you are tethered you cannot fall if the stick lets go. I have aiders on my muddy sticks so you should gain 7 feet per stick​
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yeah I don't see why not. I'm thinking it would work better than the daisy chain/versa button I'm messing with, as long as it will release without your hand on the rope that is
 
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sb220 said:
yeah I don't see why not. I'm thinking it would work better than the daisy chain/versa button I'm messing with, as long as it will release without your hand on the rope that is
Click to expand...

I think you could lengthen the rope or perhaps release it with your feet


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Well Ive ditched the daisy chain idea. It was a little too tedious getting the length right with fixed loops.

I stopped by REI last night and picked up some 1" tubular webbing and swapped out the long side of a LW strap with a longer piece of webbing and tied/taped a large loop.
IMG_0938_zpsslw5rpt4.jpg


Took it out for a try today and it seems like a winner.
I usually hunt 25-30', but without my doyle's bow hoist telling me when I'm in that range, I climbed a bit too high today. I placed the platform closer to 35'. I was in my hunting height within 4-6 minutes.
Granted this was a limbless tree, but I was using my lineman's belt each time to be safe and help get tether as high as I could reach, so moving the tether around a limb wouldn't add much more time.

 
correct me if I'm wrong, but an overhand knot with a good tail is the best knot to tie that end loop in tubular webbing right?
 
Could you explain how this is working? Are you not tightening the strap all the way so you can lift/turn the stick to drop the loop off the button?
 
yeah kenn its not cranked down. A slight amount of slack is necessary to allow the batwings to turn out from the tree once lifted, but it doesn't need much. Its like the slack you have in a rope mod setup I guess.
 
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I'm also tilting the stick after lifting I guess so the batwings are somewhat cleared of the tree. Just realized that by watching the video. Its not something I have to concentrate on though. I lift, turn and just use my wrist to work the versa button off the loop.

I had tried it with the normal LW strap/loop but had to use my foot in order to pin the strap because the loop was so small. Larger loop makes it simple
 
On a tree like that - and for almost the same weight, more compact, and far easier for an old fart like me- I would use a lone wolf climber seat as a climbing aid. With an aider (simple foot loop) added to the lone wolf seat (to front edge) you can also navigate over limbs.
 
DaveT1963 said:
On a tree like that - and for almost the same weight, more compact, and far easier for an old fart like me- I would use a lone wolf climber seat as a climbing aid. With an aider (simple foot loop) added to the lone wolf seat (to front edge) you can also navigate over limbs.
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that's what my platform is "deconstructed" out of ;) into a diy assassin.(xop anyways)
The handclimber is cool, but I grew tired of trying to find climber trees within the trees if ya know what I mean...more often that not opting for the less than ideal spot because it was easier to climb

I used that tree in the video just to illustrate speed. Navigating limbs would add a little extra time but is far easier with sticks
 
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ill make a vid going around some limbs though

Still concerned about this knot. The only webbing specific knot I can find through net searching is the water knot, but it seems like a webbing version of the fishermans, which doesn't apply here
Should I be using a figure 8 on a bight with webbing or is that just for rope? A single hit on random forum post stated a fig 8 didn't dress proper and overhand was better for webbing. Anybody with knowledge able to confirm?
 
I climbed this way for a full season with the 20" muddy pro with a five step black diamond aider. Worked very well unless there were a lot of limbs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Redfeather said:
Very cool, I assume you rappell down...?
Click to expand...
I do. I have climbed down with this once so far. It wasn't hard just a bit slower. Pack up at the bottom of tree vs a rappel made the difference a scratch though probably
 
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