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What size Figure 8 for rappel?

TomM

New Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2019
Messages
22
What size figure 8 should I use with Resc Tech 8mm rappel rope? Dano has both the singing rock 8 and the figure 8 classic. I am guessing the Singing Rock 8 but there is no mention of it on any of the threads I have looked at that use 8mm rope and the figure 8. Thanks in advance.....tm


 
Going with a full sized figure 8 on small rope such as 8mm will not provide much friction in standard mode. Less friction will require more force/friction from your hand or arm to hold yourself from going down.

Two options here:
1. use the standard figure 8 with 8mm in rescue mode. This is accomplished by looping the bite of rope around the figure 8 twice instead of once. Because the rope is touching the figure 8 with extra wrap it will provide more friction. This will reduce the force to hold yourself up and will make for a safer and more pleasant rappel
2. Get the smaller figure 8 which likely has a smaller opening, tighter turns and more friction.

You may find that depending on your weight you will still need to even run the correct sized figure 8 in rescue mode (two wraps) with 8mm rope.


Be safe and always use an autoblock, especially when figuring out your friction set up with your figure 8.
 
Thank you all so much, you confirmed what I had been thinking.
 
Nothing wrong with putting an extra turn on a standard size fig8. They're a versatile tool and there are a lot of ways to rig it. You really won't go wrong with either option.
 
A lot of your method will depend on your weight. I am 245lb and use 8mm. I had to do the double wrap like mentioned above to get the friction correct.
 
I own 3 figure 8s and a dozen different ropes. I would love to put one of em to use somehow but can't find any advantage to using one. Ya just can't count on anything that ya hold loose in hand and could potentially drop. But my Carabiner on my bridge never comes off. I can install the munter with high confidence blindfolded, wearing gloves and with no risk of dropping anything. And if ya do go with the 8, ya should know Munter as a backup. If you're not familiar with it, I have videos on it on both a single and double rope. In general, just think about everything that could reasonably go wrong and make sure its never a problem.



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The sport mode of using the fig 8 doesn’t require removing anything, only the carabiner needs to be opened. Extra friction can be made by putting another bight on the carabiner, shown on the right.
69BB6A2D-1527-4776-A349-D3374F35ABF4.jpeg
 
The sport mode of using the fig 8 doesn’t require removing anything, only the carabiner needs to be opened. Extra friction can be made by putting another bight on the carabiner, shown on the right.
View attachment 65255
Good point Brocky. Can always count on u for em! In truth, i have never actually rappeled on that because it violates the no metal on metal rule. I suppose they could be bound together somehow but i just don't see any advantages. After all, we don't go very high to begin with and if i already need a beaner, and it does the job... you get it.

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.If you use the munter hitch rather than an 8, what do you use for a back up?, an autoblock? I will be using single line oplux or resc teck rappel line like most saddle hunters are using.
 
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John RB....If you use the munter hitch rather than an 8, what do you use for a back up?, an autoblock?
I am not a fan of the autoblock. I also avoid tying any friction hitches in the woods. No matter how I climb (SRT, MRS/DRT, JRB or JRB hitch climbing), i don't tie friction hitches in the woods and don't use mechanical devices. I realize not everyone is a rope climber though and so the choice of a friction hitch is up to the climber. I always run my friction hitch above the munter as demonstrated in the videos. I believe its a requirement that if you found yourself stopped halfway down on a rappel and you had your FULL body weight on your friction hitch, it's a requirement that you're able to break that friction hitch under the full weight of your body. It's something that I have worked a lot on. Of all the friction hitches in the book, the Michoacán is the best, but i doubt a 200lb climber could break a 6mm meech on 8mm rope. I have introduced two ideas which are better: the double Michoacán and my JRB Ascender. Currently, this is all i use. Playlist:

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Going with a full sized figure 8 on small rope such as 8mm will not provide much friction in standard mode. Less friction will require more force/friction from your hand or arm to hold yourself from going down.

Two options here:
1. use the standard figure 8 with 8mm in rescue mode. This is accomplished by looping the bite of rope around the figure 8 twice instead of once. Because the rope is touching the figure 8 with extra wrap it will provide more friction. This will reduce the force to hold yourself up and will make for a safer and more pleasant rappel
2. Get the smaller figure 8 which likely has a smaller opening, tighter turns and more friction.

You may find that depending on your weight you will still need to even run the correct sized figure 8 in rescue mode (two wraps) with 8mm rope.


Be safe and always use an autoblock, especially when figuring out your friction set up with your figure 8.
Thank You!
 
I am not a fan of the autoblock. I also avoid tying any friction hitches in the woods. No matter how I climb (SRT, MRS/DRT, JRB or JRB hitch climbing), i don't tie friction hitches in the woods and don't use mechanical devices. I realize not everyone is a rope climber though and so the choice of a friction hitch is up to the climber. I always run my friction hitch above the munter as demonstrated in the videos. I believe its a requirement that if you found yourself stopped halfway down on a rappel and you had your FULL body weight on your friction hitch, it's a requirement that you're able to break that friction hitch under the full weight of your body. It's something that I have worked a lot on. Of all the friction hitches in the book, the Michoacán is the best, but i doubt a 200lb climber could break a 6mm meech on 8mm rope. I have introduced two ideas which are better: the double Michoacán and my JRB Ascender. Currently, this is all i use. Playlist:

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Thank you John, I am thinking of going with your double meech and munter hitch. What type of caribiner would be best to use for the munter hitch? A Kong HMS ?... Tm

hanks in advance......tm
 
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Thank you John, I am thinking of going with your double meech and munter hitch. What type of caribiner would be best to use for the munter hitch? A Kong HMS ?... Tm

hanks in advance......tm
I really like the Petzl William Ball carabiner. It works for large diameter ropes too. But honestly, i can successfully munter on any locking carabiner when using 8mm rope. Ya wanna practice at short distances. You can feel if the rope wants to twist going in and you simply adjust the direction of feed to mitigate it.

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Thank you John. I used a kong ergo this morning and it worked great. Experimented from a low platform using just the munter and caribiner. As soon as I get some cord I will practice using the double meech. Thank you for your expert advice!!
 
Thank you John, I am thinking of going with your double meech and munter hitch. What type of caribiner would be best to use for the munter hitch? A Kong HMS ?... Tm

hanks in advance......tm
Sorry i missed your question. The munter works on just about any beaner. My favorite is the Petzl William Ball Carabiner.

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