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Here's Mine ...What's Yours? [Mapping Process]

dpierce72

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2018
Messages
658
Location
Arkansas
UPDATE: April 8 - A few weeks ago I took an out-of-state trip alone to turkey hunt. I cyber scouted roughly 7.5k acres not knowing where pressure would be. I found it valuable to overlay the Forrest Visitor Map (OnX Layer) during my cyber scouting process. While tedious, I traced out all the trails, forest roads etc and highlighted them larger/brighter than as they appear on the map (once done tracing take the layer off ...although it can be beneficial if you haven't activated it). Once in MS, I found this extremely useful as I'd sometimes end up miles from the truck and could look, at a wide swath, and find all the connecting trails/roads and easiest way back. I'd hate to do it every time I hunted, but for an application like this, it was valuable.
a. Land I'd never hunted nor had knowledge of
b. Huge track since I wasn't sure where I'd hunt
c. Easier to view via phone in tent at night for next days plan

Good luck!
Below this text is the original mapping process thread I posted last year.


What's your method? Here is mine

Where I Begin

  • My favorite, and where I ALWAYS start, is with google earth pro - specifically, I use the historical imaging feature and vacillate images between multiple time periods. This allows me to see high/low water, spring/summer, fall/winter etc. Some areas have more updated images than others but for river bottoms in particular, I've found a specific time-period that tells me a lot about bedding/travel.
Then, depending if I'm hunting in hilly terrain or flat:

Hilly Terrain
  • I like Hillmap to compare/contrast as 7.5min topo to sat view. This provides side-by-side comparison (better to determine combined elevation/terrain of certain patterns that I like). However, it's best (IMO) in areas w/elevation changes that warrant the addition of the 7.5min topo ...and not as valuable in the flatlands.

July 26 Update
The benefit here, is that when you see a saddle/bench etc, but the topography doesn't align, time to move on. This function allows you to see both views w/out toggling between screens/maps.


Flat Terrain
  • In some of the river bottoms I hunt, they can go 5-10 feet under water fairly quickly. I tried, forever, to work w/the Arkansas GIS department to build a topo map w/3' contour intervals vs the standard 20' on a 7.5min topo. Finally, I found DEM [Digital Elevation Model] shading on Caltopo.By using this function, I can essentially create my own elevation map on 1meter (~3') intervals. The elevation changes are color coded.This is especially useful in knowing; do I need a boat, can I get through with knee boots, hip boots, chest waders, will this elevation support oak tree growth etc.

July 26, 2019 Update for CalTopo and DEM Shading

Based on a few questions, below are the instructions to utilize DEM shading in Caltopo to determine elevation changes of 3' intervals.

  • Reminders:
    • The data in Caltopo is stored as integer meters, so the most detailed you can get is approximately 3' elevation changes and not all areas will have this level of accuracy ...and not all areas will have much change.
    • I use this in areas of less than 20' of elevation change, but is flood prone (i.e. River bottoms) where 3' of elevation change determines if I need hip boots, chest waders, boat etc. It can also tell me ground that is more likely to support gum tree growth or oak tree growth, as an example.
  • Instructions:
    • Go to Caltopo.com
    • Select Add New Layer
    • Select DEM Shading
    • Elevation
      • This will take some trial and error on your part, as no two properties are exactly the same elevation
      • Update: Jan 13, 2020 - As a starting point, look to the upper right corner (gEarth Pro) and you will see a Lat/Lon box that also has elevation. As you move your cursor on the map, the Lat/Lon changes, as well as the elevation
      • Once you determine the area you need to measure, you will add that into the Elevation boxes and select a different color for each rang.
        • Example: Starting at 150 going to 165+ [I normally move the cursor around on G Earth Pro to find variances in elevations I'm working with as starting point for low/high elevations, then make the ranges from there].
          • 150-152 (Red)
          • 153-155 (Orange)
          • 156-158 (Yellow)
          • 159-161 (Dark Blue)
          • 162164 (light blue)
          • 165+ (Green)
        • Again, range will depend on your area, but where a normal 7.5 minute topo map would only reveal one line in this example, you will now have up to 6, assuming that elevation change is happening w/in the area of interest.

While Hunting
  • I use ONX while I'm hunting (lots of private inholdings on some of the public I hunt). Also, based on where I live in NE AR, I have access to several states w/in 1-3 hours (AL, AR, IL, KY, MO, MS, TN). Just upgraded onX ELITE for $59.99 (All 50 state sale via camofire this past week - May 16)
  • NOTE: If you are not hunting in an area where understanding property boundaries is critical, there are likely better options than onX IMO. This is my go to as I hunt mainly public w/private inholdings so knowing where I am at all times is critical.
Deal might still be going and perhaps I should have posted in the coupon/discount section
 
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Basically I use OnX & HuntStand while hunting. Anything that I deer hunt I have mapped out boundaries and roads on HuntStand.

Cyber scouting I use those, Google Earth, & Hillmap.
 
Since most of my hunting is public, I generally start with the state WMA map or the COE map. This gives a general layout of the property with property lines, roads, trails, entry points, property lines, boat launches, and camp sites.

I can use this info to quickly find areas that most likely do not receive significant pressure. IE, large tracts without trails or roads or areas that require water access.

I then switch over to topo maps and aerials. These let me know what I can expect once I put boots on the ground in those areas. Clear cut, timber, swamp, ridges, etc. I'll make notes of transition lines, saddles, creek bends, the usual.

I'll hit these points first, but I always try to cover EVERYTHING on foot as soon as I am able. Maps will never beat footwork and time spent on the stand observing deer movement. A lot of perfect looking spots never produce, and some locations produce that do not give any indication of being hot from a map.
 
Digital Scouting - Google Earth Pro
In the field waypoints and aerials - OnX

I used to use a myriad of applications to get the absolute most accurate data/overview I could. The Apps I used either stopped being supported by their creators, or went pay to play. The fine detail resolution of OnX sucks, to be honest. Even my google earth app on my phone has better resolution than OnX (which I pay $100/year for). The problem with OnX is that it is too good at too many things. It isn’t the best at any of them, but it is by far the most streamlined. Comprehensive product out there.

I feel like the GPS coordinates pulled by my MotionX-GPS app are far more accurate, but it is impossibly difficult to export from. It requires a separate email sent (with GPX file) for EVERY coordinate to be sent in a useful format. That’s a LOT of downloading, assigning folders, and uploading to Google Earth Pro.

The coordinates in OnX get me to within 20 yards, and a reflective thumb tack gets me the rest of the way from there. It does, however, automatically update to my account everything I have marked as soon as I get back to signal. It literally removes hours of data downloading and uploading after a heavy scouting day.

It was not uncommon for me to email myself over 100 waypoints or tracks when intensively scouting an area. Each waypoint would get a full description (and sometimes accompanying photos) in the google earth file.


Edit: after thinking it through, I decided not to include pictures of scouted and marked properties I still plan to hunt.... it is, after all, the Internet. Someone will recognize them!

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I've also been playing with Gaia, since it lets you add a photo as a pin. Wish huntstand would let me do that.

I have paid subscriptions to OnX and huntstand. Not sure why OnX is so popular. Huntstand's maps are better in my area, and you also get a decent weather app and a solunar app in one tidy package.
 
I've also been playing with Gaia, since it lets you add a photo as a pin. Wish huntstand would let me do that.

I have paid subscriptions to OnX and huntstand. Not sure why OnX is so popular. Huntstand's maps are better in my area, and you also get a decent weather app and a solunar app in one tidy package.

Marketing ...OnX seems to be everywhere you look!
 
Yeah, I've heard then advertised on podcasts and such. Like I said, I have both. Probably not renewing the OnX for this year.
Wish I'd started this thread three days ago. CamoFire ran a $59.99 special for OnX Elite so I'm locked in for another year. Although as much money as I seem to burn in this pursuit, I could easily walk away from that if one of the others is that much better.
 
I keep trying to get into huntstand but it just seems so clunky compared to OnX. I feel like if I would have discovered that before OnX I probably wouldn't care but with using OnX first their user interface just seems so much nicer to me. Plus, they now have weather built into it if that's a factor for you. Being used to that app/site has made it hard to transition to something else although I'll have to give huntstand another crack now with this conversation.
 
I have paid subscriptions to OnX and huntstand. Not sure why OnX is so popular. Huntstand's maps are better in my area, and you also get a decent weather app and a solunar app in one tidy package.

You can add trail cam picture management to that list now. I have been using Huntstand for a couple of years and they recently added a new trail camera feature that I have been playing around with this morning. You can now upload your trail camera pictures, add tags to the pics, create a "heat map" (although it appears you need to own a WGI camera for this feature) and filter by date, weather, etc.. Although I have never used it, it appears to be a similar concept to what Deer lab advertises. I haven't figured out if there is a storage limit yet but, I like what I have seen so far.
 
You can add trail cam picture management to that list now. I have been using Huntstand for a couple of years and they recently added a new trail camera feature that I have been playing around with this morning. You can now upload your trail camera pictures, add tags to the pics, create a "heat map" (although it appears you need to own a WGI camera for this feature) and filter by date, weather, etc.. Although I have never used it, it appears to be a similar concept to what Deer lab advertises. I haven't figured out if there is a storage limit yet but, I like what I have seen so far.
That may encourage me to actually run my cameras!
 
You can add trail cam picture management to that list now. I have been using Huntstand for a couple of years and they recently added a new trail camera feature that I have been playing around with this morning. You can now upload your trail camera pictures, add tags to the pics, create a "heat map" (although it appears you need to own a WGI camera for this feature) and filter by date, weather, etc.. Although I have never used it, it appears to be a similar concept to what Deer lab advertises. I haven't figured out if there is a storage limit yet but, I like what I have seen so far.

If WGI cameras are required, I’ll skip out on the feature! I haven’t had anything but bad luck with them.

There is another online software that manages trail cam pictures based on location, time, temp, and I think barometric pressure. You tag bucks individually and it will tell you when they have shown up and under what patterns. Can’t remember the name of it.


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If WGI cameras are required, I’ll skip out on the feature! I haven’t had anything but bad luck with them.

There is another online software that manages trail cam pictures based on location, time, temp, and I think barometric pressure. You tag bucks individually and it will tell you when they have shown up and under what patterns. Can’t remember the name of it.


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Deerlab


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If WGI cameras are required, I’ll skip out on the feature! I haven’t had anything but bad luck with them.

There is another online software that manages trail cam pictures based on location, time, temp, and I think barometric pressure. You tag bucks individually and it will tell you when they have shown up and under what patterns. Can’t remember the name of it.


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Deer lab like @hokiehunter373 said above. But it requires a subscription. I pulled in a couple of test pictures from my browning cams and everything appears to work with the exception of the heat map. The way I read it is you have to have one registered wgi cam to unlock that feature but it then works with all cameras.

I have a couple of wgi cams that have been working for a 2-3 years now but, I have had several that crapped out after one year. I bought 10 of them on eBay for $120 so I can't complain too much though.
 
One google map I like to also use is the terrain feature. It makes it easier for me to get a quick feel for the overall structure in hilly areas. Its really good for helping to "see" where wind eddies will be on a given wind direction.
It also shows where natural travel corridors might be, like saddles.
If you are in Google Earth, click on "view in google maps" at the top of the screen, and then click on the menu bar, then "terrain".
However, I can't seem to activate this feature on my phone. I only can find it on my laptop. Its one thing I dislike about google earth...it doesn't work the same on phones as it does on computers.
c096005ffedf124e0e63c2fb8f4e6340.jpg


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This next map is most useful for hill terrain...
Another Google Earth feature I like is the slider that allows sunlight simulation across the landscape.
Its really useful for visualizing how the slopes are exposed to sun over the course of the day. Why that is important to us is because it helps towards understanding thermal patterns thru the day AND various seasons. The specific date can be plugged in so it takes into account the different sun position/angles during fall as opposed to mid summer. A particular slope may have dramatically different sun exposure in November than that same slope in June. Sun exposure on slopes, or lack of sun exposure, is key to understanding thermals and how thermals compete and effect each other.

For example...
You will actually be able to see that a certain (Easterly) slope will be exposed to the rising sun, which will have a differing thermal behavior when compared with an adjacent slope that has no early morning exposure to the sun. You will be able to see how one exposure will be in a warming cycle while an adjoining slope is still in the shade and is still in a cooling (nighttime thermal) cycle. Those competing thermals cause crazy wind behaviors during certain times on certain days. Its a thermal seam created by exposure and the seam changes as the sun arcs across the sky during daylight hours. A calm, bright sunny morning following a cold night with a predicted, substantial warm up will produce the strongest thermals and more defined seams. Much more so than a cloudy morning or one under the influence of a weather system that produces frontal winds.
We may think we picked the wrong stand because the wind is temporarily wrong for that spot, but in reality, we may have to just stick it out for a short period until the sun exposure changes and thermals adjust and stabilize.

Being able to visualize sun exposure on slopes is part of learning how to predict wind patterns.
Here are 2 Google Earth images showing the sun exposure in early morning vs late afternoon during early November. Where do you think the thermals will be strongest, and where they will oppose and effect each other?
There is more to wind predicting than just letting milkweed floaters fly.

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da044e58904b70d13f74d494f35acb8a.jpg
dfff497f053f0182f3c3db3c46ac0927.jpg
 
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My, in the field, go to is a I-phone app called "GPS Kit". It's a offline gps tracker and cost $10. I wouldn't trade it for a $500 handheld GPS.
 
I use a free app called '' us topo maps''. It has forestry, nautical, google satellite, bing birds eye etc. I find my areas of interest then head out with a pencil and paper and wma map. I grid pattern the paper map and take notes while out there. The app tracks your movements. Bike and hip waders. Ive tried the hunting apps but my smart phone isnt smart enough. Bing birds eye view seems to be the most detailed for my area. Saved my butt last year....had a zipper on my backpack fail and dumped my truck keys somewhere on the 9000+acres wma. Followed my path and found them within an hour
 
This next map is most useful for hill terrain...
Another Google Earth feature I like is the slider that allows sunlight simulation across the landscape.
Its really useful for visualizing how the slopes are exposed to sun over the course of the day. Why that is important to us is because it helps towards understanding thermal patterns thru the day AND various seasons. The specific date can be plugged in so it takes into account the different sun position/angles during fall as opposed to mid summer. A particular slope may have dramatically different sun exposure in November than that same slope in June. Sun exposure on slopes, or lack of sun exposure, is key to understanding thermals and how thermals compete and effect each other.

For example...
You will actually be able to see that a certain (Easterly) slope will be exposed to the rising sun, which will have a differing thermal behavior when compared with an adjacent slope that has no early morning exposure to the sun. You will be able to see how one exposure will be in a warming cycle while an adjoining slope is still in the shade and is still in a cooling (nighttime thermal) cycle. Those competing thermals cause crazy wind behaviors during certain times on certain days. Its a thermal seam created by exposure and the seam changes as the sun arcs across the sky during daylight hours. A calm, bright sunny morning following a cold night with a predicted, substantial warm up will produce the strongest thermals and more defined seams. Much more so than a cloudy morning or one under the influence of a weather system that produces frontal winds.
We may think we picked the wrong stand because the wind is temporarily wrong for that spot, but in reality, we may have to just stick it out for a short period until the sun exposure changes and thermals adjust and stabilize.

Being able to visualize sun exposure on slopes is part of learning how to predict wind patterns.
Here are 2 Google Earth images showing the sun exposure in early morning vs late afternoon during early November. Where do you think the thermals will be strongest, and where they will oppose and effect each other?
There is more to wind predicting than just letting milkweed floaters fly.

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da044e58904b70d13f74d494f35acb8a.jpg
dfff497f053f0182f3c3db3c46ac0927.jpg

We don’t have enough elevation change in this area for the terrain features to work.
What terrain we have are often times gulleys and small ravines that don’t make it into Topo maps.

I love these features in the mountains, though! I am using them extensively hoping to be prepared for a 2020 DIY OTC elk trip!


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