• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Sewing Resources and Information

Did anybody answer you on this, I was about to try this same thread?
View attachment 11251

Gutermann's Upholstery thread: Will this work well for DIY saddles/ backpack modifications? If not I could return it and pick up the Gutermann "Heavy Duty" from Joann Fabrics. Neither gave any specs on the spool nor did this type have any smaller spool sizes. Just want to make sure I am working with quality materials before I start. Thanks in advance!
[/QUOTE]
In the end, I ended up making a "wraptor" and took the webbing to an upholstery shop. The worker had a thread that was stronger than what I bought. When in doubt ask someone smarter than me! ;) Feel free to check out the "wraptor" thread if you are looking at DIY saddles. Its different style than most.
 
Did anybody answer you on this, I was about to try this same thread?
View attachment 11251

Gutermann's Upholstery thread: Will this work well for DIY saddles/ backpack modifications? If not I could return it and pick up the Gutermann "Heavy Duty" from Joann Fabrics. Neither gave any specs on the spool nor did this type have any smaller spool sizes. Just want to make sure I am working with quality materials before I start. Thanks in advance!
[/QUOTE]
I used the exact same thread in my DIY. Did a bunch of ground testing. Hung 20+ on opening day. Shot a buck.
 
I have access to a fully refurbished Singer treadle sewing machine in the original oak cabinet. It is an antique and beautiful but what I want to know from you thread injection experts here in all honesty is, would this be worth utilizing for DIY saddle projects for myself??????
 
Thinking about pulling the trigger on this, any opinions?


Looks like it would likely be capable. All metal guts. I would try to work the price. Not sure how long you have been watching or what your particular market looks like, but it is not unusual around here to see the older Kenmore's or Singer clones for 40 and under.


I have access to a fully refurbished Singer treadle sewing machine in the original oak cabinet. It is an antique and beautiful but what I want to know from you thread injection experts here in all honesty is, would this be worth utilizing for DIY saddle projects for myself??????

My recollection from hours of researching machines, the old treadle machines will work great. You just won't have reverse and it will be a little more of a challenge controlling speed.

See post #8: https://www.edcforums.com/threads/what-type-of-machine-to-get.70068/
 
Know absolutely nothing about sewing but this thread has me really, really intrigued haha. Enough so that I just started searching the local area for a decent used machine. 2 I’ve come across are a singer 401a or kenmore 158. Both are 50 dollars. Anyone have any input on either one?
Sorry, I am a little late to your question - just joined last week. I collect and use vintage sewing machines. The Singer 401A is an excellent machine and $50 is a very good price (always negotiate for lower) if in decent condition and complete. The Kenmore 158 series has a great reputation. Understand that the 158 refers to Sears/Kenmore's supplier code - in this case a Japanese manufacturer named Maruzen/Jaguar. The model number is the number after the "158." on the machine's small, metal data usually found under the machine's bed. There are many models Sears contracted to buy from them and most are great, robust sewers. They vary in features offered from basic zigzag machines to full featured multi-decorative stitch machines. BTW, most gear sewing only requires a straight stitch, which on the machines you mentioned is a zigzag stitch with a stitch width set at the "0" width. It is hard to say if the Kenmore you saw is fairly priced at $50 without knowing the model number, condition, and completeness.
 
Thinking about pulling the trigger on this, any opinions?

This is a Kenmore Model 52 (lavender - haha!) and enjoys a reputation as a very strong sew machine made by Maruzen Jaguar from Japan in the early to mid-60's. There is a very nice Kenmore cabinet with stool, which is a plus. It appears complete with the maual, specialty presser feet and a box of the decorative stitch cams (make certain the zigzag cam is included Cam #1, I think?). The price is reasonable for my neck of the woods, but always negotiate.
 
This is a Kenmore Model 52 (lavender - haha!) and enjoys a reputation as a very strong sew machine made by Maruzen Jaguar from Japan in the early to mid-60's. There is a very nice Kenmore cabinet with stool, which is a plus. It appears complete with the maual, specialty presser feet and a box of the decorative stitch cams (make certain the zigzag cam is included Cam #1, I think?). The price is reasonable for my neck of the woods, but always negotiate.
Thanks, but it was sold out from under me.
 
I do not own any Whites, but they have a good reputation in the sm collecting world. This machine is a straight stitch only with a rubberized pulley on the electric motor's drive shaft that rubs against the hand wheel to make it rotate to make it sew. One of the things to watch for is that the rubberized pulley can develop a flat spot if left resting against the hand wheel for too long, which produces an annoying "thump" each time the pulley makes a turn. The rubberized portions wear out, but there are fixes for that.

The machine appears to be a '20's or so date of manufacture and will clean up nicely (if done properly). Due to its age it may need re-wiring and the motor need servicing (cleaning, new brushes, etc.). The motor capacity appears to be around 0.7 amps which should be okay for gear sewing, but may have to be manually "hand wheeled" through heavy webbing portions. I think I can make out that the presser foot is a proprietary back clamp foot system which is no big deal if you are only straight stitching (no walking/even feed foot). It is VERY dry and needs a good application of sewing oil (TriFlow Superior Lubricant) for metal-to-metal moving surfaces and maybe grease (TriFlow Clear Grease) for gears (see the manual for lubricating instructions). I do not know if it will take a Size 18 needle or not, so buy a 'Jeans' needle and take it with you to inspect it. Good luck!
 
How does this look?
BTW, Woofron, most ads say the machine is "working." Be skeptical and take a needle, some thread, and a scrap of cloth and try it out if the wiring is safe. Also, I am not certain, but I think this type of rotary, rubberized drive wheel configuration means that the hand wheel turns AWAY from you to sew instead of TO you as is more common. Like I said above I don't own any Whites, but I do have some 70 or 80 other sewing machines in my collection.
 
Would any of you experienced thread injectors know if a Singer 15-91 is able to handle a size 92/tex 90 thread?
 
Would any of you experienced thread injectors know if a Singer 15-91 is able to handle a size 92/tex 90 thread?
I found this online but it was the only source i could find but he seems to think it's ok

my 15-91 out sews my 201k under heavy loads. The 201k is a little smoother. They are both potted motored machines (no belt, gear driven). With the 15 I can use t90 thread and a number 18 needle no troubles. 201k is a little picky with t90, 69 is fine. Over all I think the 15-91 is a better machine for working at these machines absolute limits. Also since they are home machines they see very little use compared to the commercial machines, both old commercial machines I own are realy beat up and show it inside and out. So I'd go with something newer if its going to be commercial. I have picked up a lot of 15-91s over the years and I would say don't pay more than $75-100 for them locally.

I only use these for canvas work. I feel they are not really leather machines.

Edited March 24, 2015 by henrye718
 
I didn't want to buy a $12 spool of T90 to find out it doesn't work but now I will go for it. Glad to see I didn't over pay, picked it up for $40 and did a complete rebuild/rewire.
 
How does this look?
Here are some very interesting but economical listing in your Baltimore area from CL, note how old some of the listings are (usually very negotiable):


#'s 1, 3, and 4 are zigzag machines. #2 is straight stitch only but very strong ss machine. If sewing machine is not in a cabinet, make sure it operates freely on a table top unimpeeded - some require a base under them to sew - some can operate table top.

I would prefer any of these to the White you had shown earlier.
 
I thought I would place this here because I know a lot of people are using Gutermann Mara 40 thread. It's breaking strength from the research I did appears to be 8.3 lbf. I used the formula from the sailrite.com article I posted earlier and if you're looking at getting a theoretical breaking point of 4000 pounds you will need to use a minimum of 40 inches of stitching (in your overlap of your "saddle loop"/seatbelt webbing). This assumes you're using 8 threads per inch and a good stitch pattern.

I just want everyone to be safe. I'm using a thicker thread (size 92 or larger) for my saddle hunting items. terra 40 is a good thread and I use it a lot in my other projects.

Bottom line I guess is I'm just trying to make sure you're safe in your diy projects. I see a lot of new people to the forum and a lot that are getting started sewing... Specifically making saddles. I don't want to read about anyone on here getting injured from diy saddles.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Did you mean to say Gutermann Tera 40 thread? I haven't seen much mention of Gutermann Mara which is weaker than the Tera.
What brand thread do you like in size 92?
 
Did you mean to say Gutermann Tera 40 thread? I haven't seen much mention of Gutermann Mara which is weaker than the Tera.
What brand thread do you like in size 92?
Edited above to indicate Terra. I just get the spools from the thread exchange. I think it is their brand.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top