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DIY Utilibridge

I have an idea for the tail. Just splice a locked brummel in the tail onto the continuous loop (prusik). No knots.

EDIT ... actually I don't think this will work. Dang! What about splicing the tail and connecting with this 5mm quick link https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/carabiners/oval-quick-link-stainless/

It's 21g and rated at 25 kn.

What if you did a lock brimmed loop into one end of the bridge (prussic end) before you make the locked Brummell that is attached to the saddle. Then after you make the prussic and have it attached, you make a continuous loop through the saddle loop and the locked Brummell loop as a back up?

There would be no need for a stopper knot.
 
What if you did a lock brimmed loop into one end of the bridge (prussic end) before you make the locked Brummell that is attached to the saddle. Then after you make the prussic and have it attached, you make a continuous loop through the saddle loop and the locked Brummell loop as a back up?

You could do that. But the continuous loop would be pretty long. I'm not sure what the recommended bury length is for a continuous loop but I would guess at least 4 inches on each side. I think this is the appeal for a soft shackle. The soft shackle just sketches me out.
 
Here ya go. Not the right size Amsteel, but you get the point, hopefully
2b808ea616dce65cd1f10341ac6d29cb.jpg
That helps a lot. Not what I was envisioning at all. Why not put it above the stopper? Seems less likely to slide out the end of the rope with a sudden impact if the rope frays out over time.
 
Splice a continuous loop into the bridge loop, then wrap a Prusik around your fingers and slide it over the end of the tether's stopper knot?
Heres how I do it. excuse the substitute materials...2inch webbing represents the lineman loop. Green 550 represents the amsteel prusik and the amsteel is the bridge.
1. Splice amsteel loop onto bridge
2. Wrap 1 side of the loop around your finger or 4 times
3. Pull that "coil" off of your finger
4. Flip that coil horizontally, so the inside coil is on the outside
4. Push bridge through.
5. Repeat on the other side of the loop.

See photos below
 

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That helps a lot. Not what I was envisioning at all. Why not put it above the stopper? Seems less likely to slide out the end of the rope with a sudden impact if the rope frays out over time.

You could certainly do that. I envisioned using the stopper knot as a pull handle. I would also back splice the tail so it wouldn’t ever fray out.

Here is a proof of concept for me. Not the way I would actually hunt. It’s just 1/8” Amsteel continuous loop and not a real stopper knot.

573dd37f6cb0a09352b76b910ffba2f8.jpg
 
You could do that. But the continuous loop would be pretty long. I'm not sure what the recommended bury length is for a continuous loop but I would guess at least 4 inches on each side. I think this is the appeal for a soft shackle. The soft shackle just sketches me out.

Yeah, the continuous loop with 1/4” Amsteel woukd be huge. I also want to be able to girth hitch the bridge loop exactly where I want it since I don’t have comfort channels.
 
And soft shackles are crazy strong. Most tests I have seen yield 200+% of the original break strength for that diameter Amsteel.
 
You could do that. But the continuous loop would be pretty long. I'm not sure what the recommended bury length is for a continuous loop but I would guess at least 4 inches on each side. I think this is the appeal for a soft shackle. The soft shackle just sketches me out.

I saw an 8" continuous loops has additions of 1" taper, 4" bury, 1" expansion on each leg. Total rope length was 2(1+4+1)+16=28" for 8" continuous loop.
 
I saw an 8" continuous loops has additions of 1" taper, 4" bury, 1" expansion on each leg. Total rope length was 2(1+4+1)+16=28" for 8" continuous loop.

^^^That is for 7/64” diameter Amsteel, which should is not what has been discussed on this thread.
The required bury for the bigger diameter Amsteel being discussed on this thread is much, much longer.
I’ll try to find the Samson recommendation and post it here.

Edit:
Found it.
Bury length should be 13.78 inches for 3/16” Amsteel.
3.5 fids
 
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I ordered some 3/16” amsteel to make continuous loops for prussik cords. I think instead of a full bury I wanna leave just enough for the girth hitch to bite tighter around the saddle’s loop. My hope is that it bites string enough to hold in place and not slip up or down the saddles loop, accomplishing the same thing as the adjustable loops of the Phantom. Make sense?


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I ordered some 3/16” amsteel to make continuous loops for prussik cords. I think instead of a full bury I wanna leave just enough for the girth hitch to bite tighter around the saddle’s loop. My hope is that it bites string enough to hold in place and not slip up or down the saddles loop, accomplishing the same thing as the adjustable loops of the Phantom. Make sense?


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I’ve done it before. It works ok, but not perfect. I have still had it slip to the middle of the loop (l prefer my bridge to grab lower. Same thing with girth hitched tubular webbing.
 
Why such large diameter for prussic? Just because that's what Tethrd used? Anyone tried using 7/64"? I see no reason for the larger diameter, what am I missing?
 
Why such large diameter for prussic? Just because that's what Tethrd used? Anyone tried using 7/64"? I see no reason for the larger diameter, what am I missing?
7/64" amsteel has MBS of 1400 lbs while 3/16" is at 4900 lbs (or 3.5 times stronger). Those numbers also assume 100% strength retention, which obviously goes down when you splice a continuous loop. I'm not sure about others but 1400 lbs (or ~6 kn) is a bit too low for my safety factors
 
It depends on how many wraps you want. Having the bury's touch would make the shortest possible loop though.
Is there a certain part of the continuous loop that you don't want the bury to be a part of the prussic? Just figured if you wanted a bigger prussic, you'd use more rope. And maybe I'm confused lol
 
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7/64" amsteel has MBS of 1400 lbs while 3/16" is at 4900 lbs (or 3.5 times stronger). Those numbers also assume 100% strength retention, which obviously goes down when you splice a continuous loop. I'm not sure about others but 1400 lbs (or ~6 kn) is a bit too low for my safety factors

While I don’t disagree with that, plenty of guys use 7/64 daisy chains on their sticks and platforms


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I worked with Amsteel a lot, but using it as a prussic is new territory for me and I think most people. I’m messing around with different configurations, but I think we all need to very cautious before we take any of this airborne. There just isn’t a ton of info out there about using Amsteel on Amsteel like this. I’m glad a Tethrd did some testing, but that also worry that someone who has very little experience with saddles and/or splicing is going to make a catastrophic mistake.
Please guys, test this stuff on the ground and if you have any doubt, post your strategy on here and get some feedback.
Or even better, wait for Greg to make his DIY video. He could have put some magic trick on the splice that we have all overlooked.
 
While I don’t disagree with that, plenty of guys use 7/64 daisy chains on their sticks and platforms


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I use 7/64” on my sticks and platforms. I would NOT use it on something that keeps me connected to the tree. 1/8” gives another 1000 pounds of strength, 5/32” gives another 2500.
3/16” another 4000 pounds of strength vs 7/64”
Even if it takes 6 feet of 3/16” to make the loop, it will weigh less than an ounce.
 
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