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MAKIN EM SCARY SHARP

Kurt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
2,331
Location
Massachusetts
Well This starts off with a familiar phrase..... I was watching a RF video...... and Troy was voicing his concern that the movement to cut on contacts may result in some guys flinging dull broadheads at animals. I was afraid that I might be one of those guys. I've never sharpened a broadhead before, all my broadheads were replaceable blades. I'm pretty good at sharpening knives, but would I be able to cut the mustard with the new broadheads I just got? In the video he took a well sharpened broad head and cut strips of paper off like it was nothing. Then he took the other side of the head that wasn't as well sharpened. It cut the paper but not as slick as the first side. I took one of my new Masai heads and tried the paper trick. What I had was a not well sharpened head. I mean they came sharp, but not SCARY SHARP. I got on line and bought a strope and some compound and watched a bunch of how to videos. I took the already sharp broadhead to the strope for maybe a total of 20 min., daaaaaaaamn, it was awesome. It was a different level of sharp. I can't wait until next season,( flinging razor sharp sledge hammers) I would have thought that those heads were ready to go. The test will be on a completely dull head. I checked my Gatco knife sharpener to see if the bevel on the head was indeed 25 degrees, it was, and the angle of my sharpener and the clamp matched the angle perfect. I will try to use the sharpener but I also want to to learn and practice free hand as well. I feel like another piece of the puzzle has fallen into place.
 
Well This starts off with a familiar phrase..... I was watching a RF video...... and Troy was voicing his concern that the movement to cut on contacts may result in some guys flinging dull broadheads at animals. I was afraid that I might be one of those guys. I've never sharpened a broadhead before, all my broadheads were replaceable blades. I'm pretty good at sharpening knives, but would I be able to cut the mustard with the new broadheads I just got? In the video he took a well sharpened broad head and cut strips of paper off like it was nothing. Then he took the other side of the head that wasn't as well sharpened. It cut the paper but not as slick as the first side. I took one of my new Masai heads and tried the paper trick. What I had was a not well sharpened head. I mean they came sharp, but not SCARY SHARP. I got on line and bought a strope and some compound and watched a bunch of how to videos. I took the already sharp broadhead to the strope for maybe a total of 20 min., daaaaaaaamn, it was awesome. It was a different level of sharp. I can't wait until next season,( flinging razor sharp sledge hammers) I would have thought that those heads were ready to go. The test will be on a completely dull head. I checked my Gatco knife sharpener to see if the bevel on the head was indeed 25 degrees, it was, and the angle of my sharpener and the clamp matched the angle perfect. I will try to use the sharpener but I also want to to learn and practice free hand as well. I feel like another piece of the puzzle has fallen into place.
I usually sharpen the cheaper coc broadheads with a coarse
 
Sorry, as I was saying coarse sharpener. If the broadhead is scalpel sharp, I believe the wound can close up easier and actually decrease hemorrhaging. I sharpen them shaving sharp with a coarse stone or diamond sharpener. It gives micro serrations
 
@Kurt good to hear buddy! Care to share the products you employed (strop and compound) to get them so sharp?
 
@Kurt good to hear buddy! Care to share the products you employed (strop and compound) to get them so sharp?
I went on sharpeningsupplies .com and picked up a 2x8 2 sided paddle strope and a bar of green compound. One side is suede, the other a firm leather side. I added compound to the suede side and left the hard side dry. I don't know if that's the best way but it worked real good.
 
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I went on sharpeningsupplies .com and picked up a 2x8 2 sided paddle strope and a bar of green compound. One side is suede, the other a firm leather side. I added compound to the suede side and left the hard side dry. I don't know if that's the best way but it worked real good.
Valve lapping compound works great too on your leather strop after your finest stone and can be found at almost all auto parts stores. It'll get them arm hair shaving sharp which is pretty scary when patches of arm hair are missing after a sharpening session.
 
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Sorry, as I was saying coarse sharpener. If the broadhead is scalpel sharp, I believe the wound can close up easier and actually decrease hemorrhaging. I sharpen them shaving sharp with a coarse stone or diamond sharpener. It gives micro serrations
According to Ashby, the cut from a rough (but still sharp) edge causes an artery to produce a substance that speeds up clotting.
A super sharp, polished edge, just like a shaving cut, will bleed longer.
 
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I'm sorry but I don't understand why these heavy broadheads don't come ready to hunt sharp. I looked at 5-6 different companies the other day and they all say they aren't ready to hunt sharp, one company would sharpen them for another $5 after already charging $70 or something for the three pack.
 
I'm sorry but I don't understand why these heavy broadheads don't come ready to hunt sharp. I looked at 5-6 different companies the other day and they all say they aren't ready to hunt sharp, one company would sharpen them for another $5 after already charging $70 or something for the three pack.
I hear you.
Eclipse heads out of the package take a lot of work to sharpen.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
I have the Smith's sharpening system. I have noticed the new kits they sell the clamp had 4 bevel choices. My old clamp had 2...(20 and 25 degree) works really good on broadhead
 
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I'm sorry but I don't understand why these heavy broadheads don't come ready to hunt sharp. I looked at 5-6 different companies the other day and they all say they aren't ready to hunt sharp, one company would sharpen them for another $5 after already charging $70 or something for the three pack.
I would bet that a lot guys would have taken the heads I got and hunted with them. I mean what helped to sell me on them was that bevel and the fact that they were so sharp. I'm sure I've hunted with duller heads in my career. If I hadn't seen that video, and taken the time to learn, and spent the money to get the strope and compound,( wish I knew about card board and blue jeans before I did) I would have been one of those guys. It would be nice if your dropping that much scratch on broadheads the least they could do is shine em up.
 
I would bet that a lot guys would have taken the heads I got and hunted with them. I mean what helped to sell me on them was that bevel and the fact that they were so sharp. I'm sure I've hunted with duller heads in my career. If I hadn't seen that video, and taken the time to learn, and spent the money to get the strope and compound,( wish I knew about card board and blue jeans before I did) I would have been one of those guys. It would be nice if your dropping that much scratch on broadheads the least they could do is shine em up.
That was one of the great things about the original german kinetics that Markus made. They were stupid sharp when they arrived.
 
This is something I'm working on this season as well. I bought the Stay Sharp kit for replaceable blades and fixed blades. It takes some practice and work to get them stupid sharp. I'm still learning.
 
To note. They said they will not stay super sharp for long. They recomend touching then up before a hunt. Keep that in mind. If you sharpened them now, they may dull some by hunting season.
 
Great topic Kurt,i watched the RF videos as well and am on my path to heavy arrows and single bevel heads. Last year i sharpened my g5 montecs and they were ok but not scary sharp. I am thinking about a strop as well and see where that gets me.
 
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