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Bare Shaft Tuning Question

MathewsMan7

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2019
Messages
479
Got my bow set up...got bullet holes through paper with bare shafts...fletched my arrows...got bullet holes through paper...went out to bare shaft tune my arrows at 20 yards today...

shot 12-15 rounds of 2 fletched, 2 bare shafts at exactly 20 yards...My sight needs to be moved, I’m aware, but what do you believe my next step should be?To achieve bullet holes through paper at 21 feet, I had to move my rest left, slightly out of 13/16 centershot. It’s about 7/8 from the riser currently. I’d rather not move my rest anyfurther left. I will probably micro adjust my rest down a little to fix the vertical issue first...is this close enough to not worry about anything? I plan on shooting35 yards and in exclusively.i could also swap out top hats on my bottom cam to shim it to the right a little and see what happens but I don’t want to go cranking on my bow and moving stuff around if you guys believe this is close enough to not have to worry about anything...any advice is welcomed. Thanks 0F704C85-974D-40FA-97CE-3074D9997F00.png
 
Your rest has no more adjustment or you just don't want to adjust it further?

Like said above....gotta fix 1 before the other as far as vertical/ horizontal.
I would play with nock point to fix vertical and keep chasing with the rest.
No expert....just had similar issues during my tuning process and suggesting what got me back on track
 
Also, one thing that will make you pull your hair out is make sure your nock isn’t to tight.
 
Your rest has no more adjustment or you just don't want to adjust it further?

Like said above....gotta fix 1 before the other as far as vertical/ horizontal.
I would play with nock point to fix vertical and keep chasing with the rest.
No expert....just had similar issues during my tuning process and suggesting what got me back on track
Well I just didn’t want to get too far away from 13/16 centershot...not necessarily opposed to it, just read elsewhere during this whole endeavor and world of tuning that I’m jumping into that I shouldn’t deviate from true centershot much. I could shim my bottom cam first, go back to 13/16 and see what happens?? It just took a while to get bullet holes through paper so I’m tentative to go changing too much.
 
If you have a press shimming the cam to the right is easy. I would try that. I had to do it on my bow. And you shoot a matthews i assume? I read somewhere that 99 out of 100 shooters get a tail right on a matthews bow,the grip design is the reason guess. I experimented with mine quite a bit and once you are close to perfect bareshaft flight i can make the arrow go tail left or right by changing my grip a little.
 
If I have a problem I will try to always look at the easiest solution before trying a more complex 1. I don't know what all is involved with a top hat but rest adjustment is very simple....I never measured but I know with my bow and grip/shooting posture the rest is nowhere near center. Arrows fly good so I dont stress being outside of "normal" parameters
 
Without your specs.
I would say leave it unless it is driving you crazy.
Your bare shafts tail right may mean torque, spine or center shot.
fletchings will fix or hide a few issues.
 
I think you are to the point where you may only need to move rest 1/32 of an inch....I would try rest first and if you are not happy try top hats/shim
 
If fletched are hitting high, nocking point is low, so it will need to be raised. Since they're not super high, it would only require a very minor nock point adjustment - 1/8" of an inch would probably get them right on. You can try lowering the rest, but that usually only brings everything down, not just the bareshafts. You can either untie and retie your d-loop, or you can add a twist or two to your string to move nock point up.

They are close to grouping with fletched horizontally, so you will need to tune that out. Depending on your bow you may be able to do that with your cable guard or more than likely, by adding/removing twists to your cables.
 
Find out the weight of your fletchings. Measure out a section of electrical tape that will weigh the same amount. Wrap this around the back of the bare shafts. Shoot again and see if this makes the bare shafts fly better. It will be a more accurate comparison with exact weight distribution matched between bare vs. fletched shafts.
 
Without your specs.
I would say leave it unless it is driving you crazy.
Your bare shafts tail right may mean torque, spine or center shot.
fletchings will fix or hide a few issues.
I’m not opposed to leaving it...spec wise, I’m shooting a VXR 28
28 inch DL
65# DW
27 inch Day Six Arrows weighing 550 grains and 14.5% FOC
 
If fletched are hitting high, nocking point is low, so it will need to be raised. Since they're not super high, it would only require a very minor nock point adjustment - 1/8" of an inch would probably get them right on. You can try lowering the rest, but that usually only brings everything down, not just the bareshafts. You can either untie and retie your d-loop, or you can add a twist or two to your string to move nock point up.

They are close to grouping with fletched horizontally, so you will need to tune that out. Depending on your bow you may be able to do that with your cable guard or more than likely, by adding/removing twists to your cables.
Didn’t consider twisting cables. Twist cable more or untwist?
 
Didn’t consider twisting cables. Twist cable more or untwist?

You’ll have to play with it. The idea is that you are slightly throwing your cams out of sync. Google or search archeryTalk how to cable tune your specific bow model. Adding or removing twists could result in better groups.

Generally the method to cable tune would be to make a note on a piece of paper which direction you added/removed 1/2 twist. If the group gets tighter then keep twisting in the direction until your bareshafts are hitting with fletched. If they get wider go in opposite direction.

IMO most effective method of getting bareshaft, fletched, field points, and broadheads to hit together, but Does require a bow press though.


Sent from d_mobile
 
You’ll have to play with it. The idea is that you are slightly throwing your cams out of sync. Google or search archeryTalk how to cable tune your specific bow model. Adding or removing twists could result in better groups.

Generally the method to cable tune would be to make a note on a piece of paper which direction you added/removed 1/2 twist. If the group gets tighter then keep twisting in the direction until your bareshafts are hitting with fletched. If they get wider go in opposite direction.

IMO most effective method of getting bareshaft, fletched, field points, and broadheads to hit together, but Does require a bow press though.


Sent from d_mobile
Interesting. Never heard of this. I have a press. Can certainly try this.
 
I bolted a boat winch sideways to the bottom of a 2x6“ board. Then hung a scale on the top. Mounted it vertically. Used used a loop to connect string to scale. Place arrow with 1/2” markings and ties the winch rope to the handle. You can slowly crank the handle and watch wheel timing and see the exact moment of let off, the length of draw and the back wall in your draw. Cheap and quite helpful.
 
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