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From genesis 3D printing

Ontariofarmer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
5,249
I never saw this before but it looks like a great way to carry WE steps.
Maybe it has been posted before. Not sure.



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Bought one it broke just by putting the steps in to check it out sent a email to genesis, got a response asking for a picture. Sent the picture qnd haven't got a reply. Thag was over a month ago.
 
That's kind of a tough design to be especially robust with a 3d printed part, depends on layer orientation, but in my experience flexible finger type designs with repeated usage can have a short life. Extruder calibration and layer adhesion need to be spot on. Some parts are just better off as a molded product for long term use.

I don't know what they use for filament on that, something slightly flexible like PETG mostly likely (at least that is what I would prefer for a part like that, squished down with a big nozzle and 40% layer height nozzle diameter to get the extrusion width up).

Bought one it broke just by putting the steps in to check it out sent a email to genesis, got a response asking for a picture. Sent the picture qnd haven't got a reply. Thag was over a month ago.
 
Looks like you need to remove it entirely to get out 1 step. Probably not the best design. Durability will depend on material and layer orientation as 7mag said.
 
I belive there will be longevity problems with that. I like his designs, Just the long fingers with no support will be an issue. I have done a ton of prototyping on 3d printers and had a Magazine design that I had a couple of manufactures that wanted to license. In the end the magazines themselves that my kit woild modify became the issue so I scraped it.

I have been designing clips for my Hawk Helium sticks and have partially done with it. I was going to make more revisions to it tonight. I was getting things preped for this weekend and realized that elastic cord tied onto one step and then wrapped over the stacked steps works really well, will not break, and cannot fall off. I may finish it but may not use it.

I am not sure what material he is using. If it was nylon it may not be a problem. Even PLA can make a strong part. I have gotten it to make very good parts if you keep your print orientation, and wall thickness correct. Infill becomes less of an issue. I have some PETG here but have not printed with it much yet. I was looking at Nylon 66 for my magazine conversions but almost glad I did not take the leap. Big cost increase on machines, materials and accessories that are required for successful prints.

The problems with a design like that is the print orientation needs to be with the longer grain running the length of the fingers. The support Structure, depending on the filament can be a total pain to get off.

ETA: So the print orientation looks good for the strongest part. I see some things I would have changed to make it stronger.
 
PLA can be very strong but I don't trust it over time in something with any kind of force on it. Even temps considerably lower than the glass transition temp it can start to sag under some kind of force. I tend to print PETG/ABS/ASA for almost everything anymore. PETG and ABS are plenty cheap now. I do keep a roll of PLA around for knick knack stuff around the house when my printers aren't humming away on euro mounts or if a friend needs something goofy printed. I have messed around with Proto Pasta's HTPLA with fiber and it is real strong after annealing but I can't get it to run pretty enough for my standards.
 
That's kind of a tough design to be especially robust with a 3d printed part, depends on layer orientation, but in my experience flexible finger type designs with repeated usage can have a short life. Extruder calibration and layer adhesion need to be spot on. Some parts are just better off as a molded product for long term use.

I don't know what they use for filament on that, something slightly flexible like PETG mostly likely (at least that is what I would prefer for a part like that, squished down with a big nozzle and 40% layer height nozzle diameter to get the extrusion width up).
Hey guys! Just wanted to clear things up. I only use ABS and PETG. This design is laid flat on its side so the finger are flexible enough to bend, but keep their shape. I had a few issues with the first design, and the glow in the dark material that I use for this design. Those have been corrected though. I reached out to @Gbond14 about his broken one, as I may have missed his message. The season was a busy one for me :/
 
I used one of these for the first time during my hunt last week. I loved it. I am new to the steps and always seem to have an issue with the bag being loud due to my clumsy fat fingers. Used the Gripr and it didnt make a sound during the climb. The added versa hook on the saddle molle really sold it for me too. Looking forward to using it more next season.
 
I used one of these for the first time during my hunt last week. I loved it. I am new to the steps and always seem to have an issue with the bag being loud due to my clumsy fat fingers. Used the Gripr and it didnt make a sound during the climb. The added versa hook on the saddle molle really sold it for me too. Looking forward to using it more next season.
Do you wear this in to the stand or do you attach to the saddle for the climb?
 
Do you wear this in to the stand or do you attach to the saddle for the climb?
You can do both. There are some good videos from guys attaching it to the molle on their packs then moving it to their saddle at the tree. The gripr has two sides so you can hook it to your molle then move it to your saddle with the versa hook if you like or continue to use the molle side. I got most of the info from this video.
Do yourself a favor and skip to 10:30...


 
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