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Screamer in a bridge?

Thanks. Do you know how much force would be generated with 180 lbs at say 3 foot free fall on static rope
That depends on the material of your saddle, and most importantly your fall factor. Are you falling 3’ on a 3’ length of rope (is your waist even with your girth hitch with 3’ of slack) or are you say climbing until your waist is 1.5’ above your girth hitch on a 1.5’ rope. Believe it or not how far you fall isn’t nearly as important as your fall factor when dealing with force generated with ropes
 
I dont think I understand the fall factor. I thought if you had a 3 foot fall it was 3 foot fall. I thought it didn't matter if it was 1.5' fall down to the tether and then of course the 1.5' until the rope got tight or if it was 3 foot of slack in your rope with your tether over your head. Is 3' no 3'. I'm not being a wise guy. I just dont understand.
 
"The concept of severity as a function of fall factor is useful only with a dynamic rope" so that's out the window I'm using static rope.
 
Well no hold on…all falls are assigned a fall factor value. It doesn’t matter if you are on steel chain or garden hose.

You’re basically going to have a hard time finding information on falling on static rope because it is practically unheard of in the climbing world. It is widely accepted as lunacy to have slack in your static rope the way ‘we’ do it. You’ll have a hard time even finding dynamic elongation specs on these static ropes.
 
To learn more
In theory, the higher the fall factor, the higher the forces generated. The concept of severity as a function of fall factor is useful only with a dynamic rope. The longer the rope, the more energy it can absorb. The fall factor model is rather simplistic, as it does not take into account important factors such as rope drag, type of belay device, belayer displacement... In the following chapters, we will see the impact of some of these factors.

quote right off the page.
 
To learn more
In theory, the higher the fall factor, the higher the forces generated. The concept of severity as a function of fall factor is useful only with a dynamic rope. The longer the rope, the more energy it can absorb. The fall factor model is rather simplistic, as it does not take into account important factors such as rope drag, type of belay device, belayer displacement... In the following chapters, we will see the impact of some of these factors.

quote right off the page.
Here is a simple fall factor calculator. It will theoretically do static vs dynamic. Not sure how accurate, but it at least will give you a grip on the forces being displayed.
 
To learn more
In theory, the higher the fall factor, the higher the forces generated. The concept of severity as a function of fall factor is useful only with a dynamic rope. The longer the rope, the more energy it can absorb. The fall factor model is rather simplistic, as it does not take into account important factors such as rope drag, type of belay device, belayer displacement... In the following chapters, we will see the impact of some of these factors.

quote right off the page.
Hey Cooter you are right that fall factors are not the major deciding factor for generated force of static ropes because they do not stretch as much. However this has been a topic of debate because there’s only limited numbers of tests and studies on it. A Cave rescue organization did some testing and reported it is not the major factor, the way it is the biggest factor for dynamic. That is because dynamic ropes need to stretch to absorb force. It does though play a factor because all ropes have some stretch. It would also play a factor because screamers stretch as they break away. In most static work operations, they state if you expect a fall with a fall factor of greater than .25:1 that a dynamic rope should be used instead. So you are right to a large degree but it does play a factor
 
Here is a simple fall factor calculator. It will theoretically do static vs dynamic. Not sure how accurate, but it at least will give you a grip on the forces being displayed.
That’s a great tool. Notice that even though it calculates static, it still asks for a fall factor (length of the rope (slack) distance from anchor. Because all that does in fact matter just not to the degree it would on a dynamic line. Again thank you for posting this so that everyone has a tool to calculate the potential force of a fall
 
Well no hold on…all falls are assigned a fall factor value. It doesn’t matter if you are on steel chain or garden hose.

You’re basically going to have a hard time finding information on falling on static rope because it is practically unheard of in the climbing world. It is widely accepted as lunacy to have slack in your static rope the way ‘we’ do it. You’ll have a hard time even finding dynamic elongation specs on these static ropes.
Yes sir, falling on static is never ideal. There were a few small studies but nothing ever that made definite rulings. Fall factors do play a role just not the same degree as dynamic ropes do. I am glad these threads have everyone reading up on it. It might not change anyone’s mind but we all will be more informed from the research!
 
So using a dynamic rope with a screamer to one-stick would be better according to the calculator with a 3 foot fall and a 3 foot rope it cuts the falling force in half :)
 
Anybody have any advice on a good dynamic rope to use for a tether and would a dynamic prusik be a good idea on a dynamic rope?
 
For fun I
To learn more
In theory, the higher the fall factor, the higher the forces generated. The concept of severity as a function of fall factor is useful only with a dynamic rope. The longer the rope, the more energy it can absorb. The fall factor model is rather simplistic, as it does not take into account important factors such as rope drag, type of belay device, belayer displacement... In the following chapters, we will see the impact of some of these factors.

quote right off the page.
I ran the numbers you gave 185 lbs and a 3’ fall meaning you are even with your anchor point which is a 1:1 fall. It calculates you generate 9.4 kN which is around 1900 lbs. that same fall on a dynamic line says 4.7kN… I then changed the fall factor to 1.5 by saying you only had 2 foot of rope and 1’ above your anchor point, the force generated in that calculation was 14kn even though the distance fallen would still only be 3’ on a static line. Just as a reference. So I still dare say that dynamic rope would most likely absorb more force than a screamer but again these are all theoretical without one of us doing 3rd party testing
 
So using a dynamic rope with a screamer to one-stick would be better according to the calculator with a 3 foot fall and a 3 foot rope it cuts the falling force in half :)
Not being a smart a$$ but I think you’re catching on sir. Just remember the “distance from anchor” is how high your extended bridge is above where your tether wraps. So if you have your bridge short and it’s like bellybutton height, then distance is how much higher your belly button is above your tether. If it’s longer, that distance will be longer.
 
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