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Samurai vs. Maasai vs. Overkill

Samurai vs. Maasai vs. Overkill


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    15

gcr0003

Well-Known Member
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Messages
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Who has experience with the Grizzlystik Samurai and Maasai? What about the cheaper Overkill Versions? Are the more expensive ones really worth the extra $45? What are your perceived pros or cons of any of these broadheads after using one or all of them?

I have 2 factory seconds 125 gr Samurais that are shooting well but I need more than 2 broadheads for the season. Looking at their website they don't have any of the 125 gr Samurai for sale, only the overkill version. I like the look of the Maasai but don't know if I want to go with the $100 ones of the $54 ones. Anyone who has been shooting their stuff for a while please provide some helpful insight.

Thanks!
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You can get the higher quality german ones also…

 
You can get the higher quality german ones also…

I’d like to keep the conversation geared toward grizzlystik specifically if you don’t mind. I don’t think the ones you sent were single bevel but if I was not going single bevel I would probably just go with magnus stingers.
 
I think the samurai is one of the most underrated boradheads and maybe the best on the market. I have shot both the regular and overkill and the overkill looses its edge much quicker even when shooting foam. Spend the extra money to get the better quality broadhead. It's a bummer they aren't available currently but hopefully they come back in stock before your season starts.
 
Ummmmm… okay

In that case stay away from that AUS4 steel on the cheap ones it’s crap. Won’t hold an edge.
I wasn't trying to make that sounds snarky, sorry if it came across that way. Thanks for the thoughts on the overkill steel.
 
I got some overkill samurai if you get desperate. I switched to cutthroats this year because I was getting a whistle with the samurai and the cutthroat are one piece.
 
I would consider myself kind of a "basic" guy when it comes to this stuff - I am no expert. Both the regular and the Overkills come quite sharp, the primary difference is the metal and thus the durability, which will depend how much you shoot them. What I opted to do is carry my sharpest OG Grizzly (currently 200g Samurai) as my knocked arrow, another as a backup, and then keep 2 additional Overkills to fill my quiver. On my bow, I did not see much of a difference in arrow flight between the Maasai and the Samurai, and will often carry both. The 200g do not have the cutouts. Grizzlystik makes a good product, and their customer service is great. You could call them and I'm sure someone there could even give you an opinion.
 
Who has experience with the Grizzlystik Samurai and Maasai? What about the cheaper Overkill Versions? Are the more expensive ones really worth the extra $45? What are your perceived pros or cons of any of these broadheads after using one or all of them?

I have 2 factory seconds 125 gr Samurais that are shooting well but I need more than 2 broadheads for the season. Looking at their website they don't have any of the 125 gr Samurai for sale, only the overkill version. I like the look of the Maasai but don't know if I want to go with the $100 ones of the $54 ones. Anyone who has been shooting their stuff for a while please provide some helpful insight.

Thanks!
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My favorite reasonably priced broadheads of all time1F70D308-94E3-4786-B216-4D21C26561A6.jpeg1F70D308-94E3-4786-B216-4D21C26561A6.jpeg
 
My favorite reasonably priced broadheads of all timeView attachment 51888View attachment 51888
I just got these for my trad bow and am very pleased. I tested one head, maybe 20 shots total, On my arrows to check flight and after I could still shave hair off my arm. Granted that’s a foam tgt and not a critter with bones but I’ll be hunting with them when I take my recurve this year for sure.
 
In that case stay away from that AUS4 steel on the cheap ones it’s crap. Won’t hold an edge.

I don't doubt the superior edge holding of the regular grizzly stick broad head over the overkill series, I not sure it merits consideration for hunting purposes. I say that based on a recent Ranch Fairy video where he discussed and showed the difference between 2 different tuffheads he had shot through pigs and 2 that hadn't been shot and were hunting sharp. I know he takes his sharpening seriously and there was a striking difference. To me that illustrates the point that resharpening/touching up will be a necessary step before every hunt.
I also am under the impression that the softer steel of the overkills will take an edge easier but that may just be my own misguided notion.

Also I have the 125gr maasai overkills that I'll be shooting this year. If you go with theaasai's I recommend the staysharp "C" series sharpener for keeping them sharp also. It made taking mine from sharp to scary sharp a pain free and easy process.

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Keep it comin, fellas! I’m in the same boat and love hearing first hand accounts!


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Yeah. I’m sorta digging these so far. Picked up some iron will 200 and some of these used. Shot them both a little and ordered more Sammy’s for this year. They look badass if nothing else.

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I own both the black label and the Overkill Samurai.
Shot the 150s for several years, but I switched to the 200s last year for 2 reasons. I wanted to increase FOC, and I also wanted a 3:1 broadhead.

The straight edge Samurai will penetrate with less force the the convex edge Massai. The straight edge will be easier to sharpen, too.

These heads do come very sharp but after I got a KME last year, I could take them to the next step in sharpness. They get crazy sharp.

I've killed several deer with the black label and experienced very minimal damage. I've not yet shot anything with the Overkills so I can't comment on whether they perform any differently.
For whitetail, I would think that the Overkill would be fine.
 
Another point about the Samurai...
There is a bit of an issue with clearance of the very tip of the ferrule when sharpening them. I experienced that with the 150s. I've not owned the 125s, so I don't know how their blade profile effects the ferrule clearance. My 200s do have ferrule clearance (but just barely) when I place them in my KME clamp. Check out the photo in post #15 and you can see a tiny silver spot on the ferrule. That's from the stone making contact when you maintain the factory angle during sharpening.
BUT, you can remove the blade from the ferrule with a small Allen wrench and sharpen them that way. I did that with my 150s and it worked well. Alignment when re-attaching the blades was perfect, no issues there at all.
I assume that I will eventually have to remove blades with the 200s after several sharpenings.
I'd resist damaging the ferrule when sharpening. Not sure to what extent it can weaken the integrity, but why risk it?
 
Yeah. My practice head has a chunk missing. Not from sharpening but from great shot placement. Hahaha. That one will never hit the quiver…


I
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When the sharpening stone, file, or whatever you are using makes contact with the ferrule, it causes a very short section of the edge to have a slightly different (mid-section) bevel than the tip and rear of the edge. It's not drastic but it will be a slight bit of difference. I doubt that it would have an effect on bleeding but I just don't like damaging the tip of the ferrule
 
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