Ordered a Recon, how has everyone improved upon it?

[iamcorey]

As of the last couple of sits of the season I ended with this setup:
Flipped panels
Removed leg straps
Wearing a battlebelt over it to keep it in place. Once at height and tethered, I wrap the belt around the tree and use it as a gear hanger.

 

[RiverRun]

Here's my take on the bungee belt. One bungee cord running through a bungee ball through the bottom plate hole. Since the Recon belt was too big for me, I also did the same and created my own belt by running an additional bungee and ball through the front Molle loop. Works like a charm! Thanks to @Allegheny Tom for the inspiration on the topic!

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Here's my take on the bungee belt. One bungee cord running through a bungee ball through the bottom plate hole. Since the Recon belt was too big for me, I also did the same and created my own belt by running an additional bungee and ball through the front Molle loop. Works like a charm! Thanks to @Allegheny Tom for the inspiration on the topic!

There has to be a dozen different ways to skin this cat. I assumed that there were probably better versions of that earlier version that I made with the metal hardware yokes. I don't use those anymore.
I hope you like your rig with the bungee ball, but I'm not sure it would work quite as well as rigging it so it will pull evenly thru the center of the plate. That's basically what you've accomplished on the opposite side.
My very 1st try at a bungee belt was to just hook an "el-cheapo" mini bungee on the corner of each plate. It tended to twist the plate on an angle which I didn't care for. I kinda think that's what will happen with the bungee ball...there's nothing to prevent it from twisting the plate on that side on an angle.

But there is not really any right or wrong here. We have to keep in mind the end result goal, which is to have a stretchy belt that is also adjustable. If your version suits your needs that's all that matters.
Any way that a guy makes one...a bungee belt is waaaay better than the stock belt.

 

[HuumanCreed]

There has to be a dozen different ways to skin this cat. I assumed that there were probably better versions of that earlier version that I made with the metal hardware yokes. I don't use those anymore.
I hope you like your rig with the bungee ball, but I'm not sure it would work quite as well as rigging it so it will pull evenly thru the center of the plate. That's basically what you've accomplished on the opposite side.
My very 1st try at a bungee belt was to just hook an "el-cheapo" mini bungee on the corner of each plate. It tended to twist the plate on an angle which I didn't care for. I kinda think that's what will happen with the bungee ball...there's nothing to prevent it from twisting the plate on that side on an angle.

But there is not really any right or wrong here. We have to keep in mind the end result goal, which is to have a stretchy belt that is also adjustable. If your version suits your needs that's all that matters.
Any way that a guy makes one...a bungee belt is waaaay better than the stock belt.

True that. I actually settled on a hybrid leg loop/belt combo. Leg loops attached at bottom like the ESS, but I run it through the lineman's loop and connect it like a belt using cobra buckle. Work really well keeping everything tight for 1sticking, and then I just loosen it once I'm settling in for hunt.

 

[GeoFish]

I wanted a load bearing waist belt. I noticed the tag ends of the bridge and thought if they were longer, they could become the waist belt. I talked to Mark last March and he sent me some longer bridge material. I added a Austrialpin buckle and two of there triglides.
I also did the panel flip, keeps the top panel from sliding down with a pouch attached.

 

[GeoFish]

Let me try a picture.

 

[Chopper070]

1) Bungee belt.
2) Flip the plates.
3) Remove the rubber coating, but wax works. I just didn't want to take a chance that the wax might fail to silence it under certain conditions, which would most likely happen in the presence of a shooter buck.

I've spent many 12 hour hangs in mine (on platforms).
I see no need for any other brand.

What do you mean by flip the plates, and what does it accomplish? I see a few people talking about the rubber buckle noise. Do you notice that more after you’ve been in it for a long sit? I’ve only practiced with it for up to an hour and a half at a time, but I have not noticed any noise yet (cold and warm weather)

 

[Chopper070]

Be advised that the belt needs to be loose when sitting. In my experience, even with the leg straps this means the Recon can fall down when you stand up. This is something to be aware of when one sticking.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I noticed the same problem when one sticking. I have since resolved that by tying off the tag ends of the belt and also using a linesman‘s belt while climbing

 

[Chopper070]

I’ve had mine come unbuckled on me while one sticking. Just be aware if one side of the release levers is depressed the buckle can come undone.

I had the same thing happen. I resolved the problem by tying the tag ends of the belt with a couple of simple overhand knot’s for redundancy. I recently used a linesman’s belt as well to keep tension on the saddle.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

What do you mean by flip the plates, and what does it accomplish? I see a few people talking about the rubber buckle noise. Do you notice that more after you’ve been in it for a long sit? I’ve only practiced with it for up to an hour and a half at a time, but I have not noticed any noise yet (cold and warm weather)

This has been discussed at length on Saddlehunter, and I actually made a video and posted it on Rumble

Treehopper Recon plate flip

Here's a short video on how to flip the plates on a Recon tree sling.

rumble.com

What flipping the plates does is it changes (flips) the orientation of how the 2 sections (of the webbing) goes into and out of the plates. The way the Recon is shipped has the top section entering the plates from the OUTSIDE and exits to become the bottom section on the INSIDE of the plates. Flipping the plates reverses that orientation. The bottom section will enter the plates from the outside and exit (to become the top section) on the inside of the plates.
Some people like it the way it's shipped and some of us prefer to flip the plates. It seems insignificant but flipped plates allow the overall fit to more mirror the human shape...wider in the hips. There are a few other things that flipping helps but it tends to be a matter of personal preference. Flipping is easy to do so I'd recommend that everyone try it to see if you like it. You can easily change it back if you don't like it.

The rubber coating on mine made the noise right out of the box. There was no way that I was willing to risk that blowing a hunt for me.
I already owned 2 of the original prototypes that Mark sent me to test and those did not have any coating so I knew the uncoated slings worked perfectly without the rubber. But I did order a production Small and it's coating made noise horribly. I immediately removed the rubber (very easy to do).
With that said, I have no idea if Mark has changed the composition of the rubber on the slings currently made. Maybe he's corrected the problem.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[DeadHeadSpread]

Anyone modify anything on the sling to make using dump pouches easier?

 

[DeadHeadSpread]

The rubber coating is noisy when it gets cold. No noise early season but in yesterday’s frigid temps those things made noise every time I moved slightly. Chopped all the rubber off today.

 

[TreeCreep]

Anyone modify anything on the sling to make using dump pouches easier?

It seems Most don’t use pouches with the Recon.
I don’t.
Check out some of the battle belt threads as an option maybe
Or search “Recon Sling Revamp”

 

[KeithinPA]

I noticed the same problem when one sticking. I have since resolved that by tying off the tag ends of the belt and also using a linesman‘s belt while climbing

The bungie belt works like a champ when one sticking. I've had several climbs in it now since I did the mod and I have had no issues. And my rubber plates would squeak when putting a lot of pressure on one side for an awkward shot angle. I left the rubber on the bridge loop portion as that doesn't move so there's no noise but I removed the rubber very easily from the lower section where the actual saddle passes through.

 

[Chopper070]

That’s the first thing I did. Oplux in my case. The edges are rounded and work great! I have the webbing plates.

Where did you get the oplux bridge? And is there a reason you chose that over amsteel?

 

[Chopper070]

I see. Thank you for clarifying that. It is making more sense to me now. I wish I had known this before buying as I would have gone with the webbing version. Somehow I was convinced that the rope version was better. I guess I can add that to the "regrets" thread.

I‘m actually thinking about switching to rope to have a more easily adjustable bridge. What don’t you like about the rope?

 

[Chopper070]

Is anyone having problems with the webbing bridge slowly slipping through the buckles? I have noticed it on every hunt, and on the last hunt, forgot to adjust it prior to climbing. Once at height I noticed that the tag ends had almost slid through. When I stood up to adjust, one did slip through, and it scared the $h!t out of me while one arm was hugging the tree and the other fiddling with it! Yes, I should have thrown on a linesman’s belt lol. But I am seriously considering switching to a girth hitched rope bridge not only for this reason but for easier adjustability. I think it would be better for me to have a short bridge while one stick climbing and longer while hanging.

 

[TNSTAAFL]

I‘m actually thinking about switching to rope to have a more easily adjustable bridge. What don’t you like about the rope?

Those were some of my initial thoughts. I actually like my rope bridge now. It is adjustable via a prussik which I mostly only use to extend it far enough so it can ride over my shoulders for the walk in/out.

My only wish now is that it was openable, but I can't seem to find a carabiner that will fit that small hole in the bridge plate.

Overall the Recon is pretty sweet. I finally flipped the panels a la @Allegheny Tom and I like that better. I also stripped every accessory off if it (no pouches, stick hangers, etc) and I find it works much better just bare like that.

I stil haven't gone down the bungee belt mod path yet. I upgraded to the now standard (I think) web belt with the buckle (mine originally came with the "speed buckle" which I didn't like). This belt works good.

The leg straps are a little fiddly and I've gone back and forth with using them. I like the security of that bottom panel fixed to my legs when hanging, but it is much more streamlined to remove them.

Sorry for the long reply. You asked one question and got me going into a broader review. One of the problems with reading older posts is that people's experiences and thoughts change a lot over time.

 

[KeithinPA]

Is anyone having problems with the webbing bridge slowly slipping through the buckles? I have noticed it on every hunt, and on the last hunt, forgot to adjust it prior to climbing. Once at height I noticed that the tag ends had almost slid through. When I stood up to adjust, one did slip through, and it scared the $h!t out of me while one arm was hugging the tree and the other fiddling with it! Yes, I should have thrown on a linesman’s belt lol. But I am seriously considering switching to a girth hitched rope bridge not only for this reason but for easier adjustability. I think it would be better for me to have a short bridge while one stick climbing and longer while hanging.

I don't see how the webbing can slip if it's correctly woven through the plates. I would check that first because I'd venture to say that it's not installed as it should be. The way it weaves through the plates is not intuitive for me and I always leave one side on to copy for that reason. I can send you a picture if need be.
I one stick climb with the bridge the same length as it is when I'm hunting and don't have any issues. I've tried using a short bridge to climb with my TX5 saddle and honestly don't notice any advantages so now I just leave the bridge alone with whatever saddle I'm using.

 

[Wirrex]

Where did you get the oplux bridge? And is there a reason you chose that over amsteel?

I made it. Now it’s a fixed bridge which is simple to make. I don’t care for amsteel in a bridge. The burry makes for lumps to run through the biner and I prefer the smooth movement of the rope.