• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Cruzr Amsteel bridge

I have a question regarding the tag end of the bridge when you’re completing the prussic. Shouldn’t there be a 1/2 hitch for fail safe? So in that video I watched in this thread, he made the second prussic but did not make a knot. Shouldn’t there be a fail safe? Just want to understand. Thanks man.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A stopper knot is tied on the tag end of your full burry bridge. Is that what you are referring?
 
A stopper knot is tied on the tag end of your full burry bridge. Is that what you are referring?

In the video, there’s a tag end sticking out after he wraps three times creating the prussic. So I was concerned about that line slipping out and why I asked if a knot be tied? Thank you kindly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
On a side note, I have a Cruzr with the adjustable bridge, and I also bought an adjustable bridge from Cruzr to put on my Kite. Both of them came with a stopper knot in them. I'm betting he used an "in production" bridge to shoot the video. Probably should have done the video with the knot, but like I said, the 2 finished products I received both had stoppers.
 
Save some money and DIY your Cruzr adjustable bridge.
(Note - the below formula works well on an H2 saddle. It has averaged sized bridge loops. Allow for a larger opening before the locked brummel on your full burry bridge and a slightly larger continuous loop if you have a saddle with bulky bridge loops. All saddles are not alike!)

Please post what works for you on different saddles.

Materials:
11 feet of 1/4" amsteel - ($.99 a foot)
7 feet of 3/16" amsteel - ($.69 a foot]
Works out to be $15 in materials and 1/2 of the Cruzr bridge cost.
I purchased all my materials at doublesteps.com

Directions:
Bridge
1) fold your 11 foot 1/4" amsteel in half and pinch in the middle
2) place a mark 8 1/2" up on both sides of the pinch.
3) start your brummel lock at the 8 1/2" mark
4) full burry the remaining lengths after locking the brummel
5) use the 8 1/2" locked brummel loop to attach the bridge to the desired side of your bridge loop (see above posted Cruzr bridge attachment video)

21" continuous loop
1) fold your 7 foot or 84" length of 3/16" amsteel in half. And pinch it in the center
2) measure up 21" on both sides of the pinch and make a mark.
3) at the mark make a locked brummel
4) full burry the tag ends and cut off any remaining material to complete the 21" continuous loop.
(Again see the earlier cruzr bridge attachment video to prusik knot the loop to your bridge loop and bridge)
5) make a stopper knot on the end of your full burry 1/4 bridge and cut off any extra material from the end.
If you need assistance making a locked brummel or continuous loop watch pushing daisy's DIY utillibridge video on YouTube (or on my DIY Utillibridge post) However, keep in mind that this bridge has a longer loop before the lock and the continuous loop is a much longer 21".

See attached pictures of the bridge I made this morning on an H2. I hung with it this afternoon and it's a sweet little upgrade.

Good luck and please PM with any questions.

@Nugget - Thanks a ton for these measurements and instructions! Made one of these for my brother’s saddle and liked it so much that I made a second one for myself. Really like the adjustability on the bridge loops and overall bridge length - and this is coming from someone who has been running a fixed bridge for years with no complaints! This design is just plain better.
 
Save some money and DIY your Cruzr adjustable bridge.
(Note - the below formula works well on an H2 saddle. It has averaged sized bridge loops. Allow for a larger opening before the locked brummel on your full burry bridge and a slightly larger continuous loop if you have a saddle with bulky bridge loops. All saddles are not alike!)

Please post what works for you on different saddles.

Materials:
11 feet of 1/4" amsteel - ($.99 a foot)
7 feet of 3/16" amsteel - ($.69 a foot]
Works out to be $15 in materials and 1/2 of the Cruzr bridge cost.
I purchased all my materials at doublesteps.com

Directions:
Bridge
1) fold your 11 foot 1/4" amsteel in half and pinch in the middle
2) place a mark 8 1/2" up on both sides of the pinch.
3) start your brummel lock at the 8 1/2" mark
4) full burry the remaining lengths after locking the brummel
5) use the 8 1/2" locked brummel loop to attach the bridge to the desired side of your bridge loop (see above posted Cruzr bridge attachment video)

21" continuous loop
1) fold your 7 foot or 84" length of 3/16" amsteel in half. And pinch it in the center
2) measure up 21" on both sides of the pinch and make a mark.
3) at the mark make a locked brummel
4) full burry the tag ends and cut off any remaining material to complete the 21" continuous loop.
(Again see the earlier cruzr bridge attachment video to prusik knot the loop to your bridge loop and bridge)
5) make a stopper knot on the end of your full burry 1/4 bridge and cut off any extra material from the end.
If you need assistance making a locked brummel or continuous loop watch pushing daisy's DIY utillibridge video on YouTube (or on my DIY Utillibridge post) However, keep in mind that this bridge has a longer loop before the lock and the continuous loop is a much longer 21".

See attached pictures of the bridge I made this morning on an H2. I hung with it this afternoon and it's a sweet little upgrade.

Good luck and please PM with any questions.

Is the CRUZR bridge and continuous loop also made from 1/4” and 3/16” Amsteel or did you just pick those sizes based off of the other utilibridge projects on this site?
 
Is the CRUZR bridge and continuous loop also made from 1/4” and 3/16” Amsteel or did you just pick those sizes based off of the other utilibridge projects on this site?
Those are the sizes of rope that I prefer. Also the same sizes found on the phantom. Others are using 1/8" on their continuous loops. I personally do not like the 1/8" loops. The 3/16 breaks better and is just more user friendly. Does this answer your questions. Please PM me if you have other concerns.

FYI - some are also suggesting a slightly longer continuous loop on the cruzr.
 
Those are the sizes of rope that I prefer. Also the same sizes found on the phantom. Others are using 1/8" on their continuous loops. I personally do not like the 1/8" loops. The 3/16 breaks better and is just more user friendly. Does this answer your questions. Please PM me if you have other concerns.

FYI - some are also suggesting a slightly longer continuous loop on the cruzr.
When I built a “utilibridge” for my Mantis, I wished I had left the tag end that contained the continuous bury longer than the tag end that acted as the bury because the bury ended up sticking out the other end instead of matching up. Not a big deal to trim it down but I lost about 6” on the length of the adjustable bridge as a result.
 
Question. Watched the video, Why do you have to attach the amsteel on both sides of the bridge loops on the saddle with a prusik? Couldn’t you just attach it to the bridge loops of the saddle on each side with a single girth hitch and then use the prusik on the bridge to adjust it instead of 3 prusiks?
 
I guess having the prusiks on either side of the bridge loops allows you to customize where the bridge falls on the loops for that custom feel.
It allows the bridge to hold on the bridge loops at certain heights. This essentially adjusts your top or bottom strap pressure
 
Back
Top