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WTB 2-3 Wildedge stepps

redhawk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2018
Messages
428
Looking to see if anyone has 2 or 3 Wildedge stepps with the regular ropes that they would sale me or trade for. Would like to try it out before buying a whole set. Been watching the cain method on YouTube and liking what I see. thanks in advance.
 
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If you are in the mid Atlantic let me know. I've got 5 I never use. Not interested in shipping and paypal

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Looking to see if anyone has 2 or 3 Wildedge stepps with the regular ropes that they would sale me or trade for. Would like to try it out before buying a whole set. Been watching the cain method on YouTube and liking what I see. thanks in advance.

I got a few I don’t need


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Eh, hit me up if no one helps, my wife does all that shipping and selling, but she usually keeps the money...

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What's your reason for selling? why didn't they work for you?
 
What's your reason for selling? why didn't they work for you?
I wanted to do 3 wild edge stepps with a 5 step aider, moving between each, and two up top as a platform. It didn't work for me.

I 1 stick and reppel.

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I wanted to do 3 wild edge stepps with a 5 step aider, moving between each, and two up top as a platform. It didn't work for me.

I 1 stick and reppel.

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Gotcha! Do you think they are pretty stable on the tree, did you have any issues with them just for climbing?
 
I think they are stable. I think some people have problems with them though. I was climbing using the naider/swaider and my foot slipped. I was hanging sideways from one step. Never fell but man it was scary! The step held rock solid! I wish someone was filming me, it would have been hilarious.
 
The wildedge step is very stable IF THE KNOT IS TIED PROPERLY AND SLACK IS REMOVED LIKE IT SHOULD BE. Now with that said there is a learning curve for them and it shouldn't be learned the day before the season opener and not at twenty feet either.

I have tried many different things with mine, 5 step Yates big wall ladder FAIL , 4 step aider FAIL , the wildedge aider this works alright cuts number of steps needed to get to the height you want to with only half of the steps. Knaider / swaider was interesting I ended up Just like @rutjr hanging sideways in the tree.

I have also removed the ropes on mine and have installed flat 1 inch webbing instead and tie the webbing using the same knot as the rope. This doesn't stretch like the ropes so it removes some fiddle factor while installing steps.
 
The wildedge step is very stable IF THE KNOT IS TIED PROPERLY AND SLACK IS REMOVED LIKE IT SHOULD BE. Now with that said there is a learning curve for them and it shouldn't be learned the day before the season opener and not at twenty feet either.

I have tried many different things with mine, 5 step Yates big wall ladder FAIL , 4 step aider FAIL , the wildedge aider this works alright cuts number of steps needed to get to the height you want to with only half of the steps. Knaider / swaider was interesting I ended up Just like @rutjr hanging sideways in the tree.

I have also removed the ropes on mine and have installed flat 1 inch webbing instead and tie the webbing using the same knot as the rope. This doesn't stretch like the ropes so it removes some fiddle factor while installing steps.

Great points. Can they really climb any tree though? I understand pines would be really tuff to get stepps tight on. I don't find myself hunting many pine trees, as there are plenty of good oaks where I hunt, but I want to be able to climb where needed.
 
I think they are stable. I think some people have problems with them though. I was climbing using the naider/swaider and my foot slipped. I was hanging sideways from one step. Never fell but man it was scary! The step held rock solid! I wish someone was filming me, it would have been hilarious.

That's wild! Exactly why I am just willing to climb with just the stepps, if I end up liking them. I've had some slips with aiders on sticks , so I am trying to get away from aiders all together.
 
Soooooo, anyone got 2 -3 stepps they would be willing to trade or sale ?
 
Great points. Can they really climb any tree though? I understand pines would be really tuff to get stepps tight on. I don't find myself hunting many pine trees, as there are plenty of good oaks where I hunt, but I want to be able to climb where needed.

I don't know all the trees but I avoid climbing White Pine with anything! They have very soft bark and the pine pitch runs freely! I've never climbed Jack Pine but I think it would be ok. I mostly climb oaks, maple and beech trees.
 
I just found this thread so, I apologize. I could have helped out.
That said yes, in my experience with these, they really can be used on all trees. I have even used them on white pine regularly.
I did "mod" them slightly. I used spray foam and a hard epoxy to fill the holes. This accomplished 2 things, it prevented bark entering the holes, and by doing that it stopped the bite in softer trees. They are still 100% stable, and dont move around. It was exactly what they need IMHO.
 
Also, I use a modified cain method to climb. I added a one step aider that I attach to the top step only because my fifth step always has a perch attached, I never take it off. The aider helps because the perch sticks out further from the tree which makes it awkward to climb over for me.
There are a ton of great climbing methods out there, but for my style, setup and needs, the WE steps are hands down the best, and well worth the cost. There maybe lighter and faster methods and gear but I prioritize simplicity over speed always, because I would rather be setup right the first time and it take 10-12 minutes vs being in the tree in 5-7 mins and have to make all kinds of adjustments!
Just be patient with them, try things, and make them work for your setup. They may take a couple tries to learn to get them tight consistently, but once you learn how to you wont have any trouble repeating it. There is no trick to it, you just need to find that sweet spot between too tight to cam over and to loose to hold you with out moving!
 
I just found this thread so, I apologize. I could have helped out.
That said yes, in my experience with these, they really can be used on all trees. I have even used them on white pine regularly.
I did "mod" them slightly. I used spray foam and a hard epoxy to fill the holes. This accomplished 2 things, it prevented bark entering the holes, and by doing that it stopped the bite in softer trees. They are still 100% stable, and dont move around. It was exactly what they need IMHO.

Sorry man, but I am a visual person. Any kind of pics?
 
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