SnakeEater
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2020
- Messages
- 1,563
Why not just get the 200grain ethics inserts that don’t have collars? I have both, and with gt velocity shafts I didn’t have to sand but I like the solid inserts better.
Just wish they were ss instead of aluminumI'm using ballistic collars from Gold Tip. They work fine on GT Kinetics.
Figure with all I read that the collars will help strengthen the end of the shaft.Why not just get the 200grain ethics inserts that don’t have collars? I have both, and with gt velocity shafts I didn’t have to sand but I like the solid inserts better.
id have to agree since my victory rip shafts od varied .004 checked them with calipers just to see. that is possibly why when i sanded them they became very thin. also it would be too hard to make collars for all the variances in shafts.The OD of even the same model arrow can/will be all over the place. take the gt hunter like I'm using. If it didn't have the camo coating the sleeve probably slip right on but with that coating the OD I'm sure has a huge tolerance...thicker on some arrows and thinner on others so ethics would have to sell a bunch of different sizes or make some standard size and let the customer fit. I think it saves ethics from huge headache offering lots of different sizes doing it the way they choose
The collars are square for the most part, haven’t noticed them not be. I found that you don’t need to, if you do, insert tune the actual inserts. Once you put the collar on and your BH’s, you can make sure you have perfect rotation by just loosening and twisting the collar. Much easier than with glue and an insert alone.also if and when sanding the arrow, how square are the collars when installed?
Sounds easy enough. Thanks.The collars are square for the most part, haven’t noticed them not be. I found that you don’t need to, if you do, insert tune the actual inserts. Once you put the collar on and your BH’s, you can make sure you have perfect rotation by just loosening and twisting the collar. Much easier than with glue and an insert alone.
With Momentum shafts, It's best to cut the nock end because it keeps the heavier front end of the shaft in tact, which helps with FOC and overall arrow weight.
And another benefit of cutting the nock end during the tuning process is that you won't have to glue/unglue the inserts. Just pull out the nock and trim the shaft.
But with that being said, I've become a big fan of the cool melt glue. It holds well but it's also unglued with hot tap water.
I would bet that your issue is caused by how you prep.Have a link to the cool melt glue? I doesn’t matter what kind of glue I use, it seems I always have some pulling out.
I would bet that your issue is caused by how you prep.
Ethics has a good video on how to properly prep the shaft, although they do not mention using the cool melt.
I can say that even with the cool melt, I need to go really light on how much I put on the insert. I used to load it up which caused difficulty in removing the insert...it really stuck tight.
Now I just put a small dab of cool melt on the insert and it still holds well for me.
Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex Hot Melt
• Low-temp hot melt for carbon shafts • Instant full strength set-up in cold water • Easy to apply, heat reversible • 12 gram stick will do approximately 144 insertswww.lancasterarchery.com
Hot melt works fine.Every carbon arrow should get scuffed (inside or out), and wiped with acetone before gluing. I use regular craft hot melt on inserts.....epoxy on footings.
Hot melt works fine.
I like the cool melt because it can be released with just hot tap water. I originally got it intending to use it just during the tuning process, but I realized how well it works so now it my standard glue.