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BH Tuning Help

bigcat93

Well-Known Member
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Jul 15, 2015
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NJ
So doing some testing and ran through the Ranch Fairy kit, not trying to go heavier just exploring options. Currently have been shooting 350 spine Black Eagle Renegade, their 50gr half-out insert, and 100gr rage hypo.

through the RF process I tested the 250 and 300 spine arrows. Bareshaft tuning got me shooting bullet holes with 300 spine/125gr and 250sp/200gr both with a 100gr insert.

i nock tuned, and 4 fletched (q2i x-ii) 300 spine arrows today and got them sighted in and grouping with field points, however when I put BH on (125 Grizzly Stik Samurai) I couldn’t get them consistent with FP.

Think I need vane with a larger profile? Or a different vane setup completely?

still need to fletch the 250 spine and shoot 200gr BH (Grizzly Stik Masaai)

side note: I did for fun put the 125gr samurai on my 350sp black eagle and it grouped with a field point, or it was just a one of chance of luck ( I was shooting and tuning for 2 hours before this trying to get them to fly straight)

looking for some pointers
 
Oh and were they consistently hitting somewhere other than the field points?

if they are hitting left, I am curious what your carbon to carbon length is? Maybe overspined if they are on the shorter side and only showing that with the addition of the broadhead?

since they flew better on the weaker spine arrow this could be the case potentially.

and one last edit (jeez lol). You could very well be fatigued especially after 2 hours. No matter what I’d call it and try again tomorrow
 
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Oh and were they consistently hitting somewhere other than the field points?

if they are hitting left, I am curious what your carbon to carbon length is? Maybe overspined if they are on the shorter side and only showing that with the addition of the broadhead?

since they flew better on the weaker spine arrow this could be the case potentially.

and one last edit (jeez lol). You could very well be fatigued especially after 2 hours. No matter what I’d call it and try again tomorrow
I’m at 28 inches carbon to carbon, the black eagle is 28 inches including nock and insert.

I tried switching broadheads and shafts, mostly always hitting right compared with field points, but not consistently.

I should be receiving the broadhead test pack soon maybe they just aren’t flying well with that type of BH
 
Could be. Honestly 250 spine sounds way stiffer than you’d need it to be for a 28” ctc shaft. I am not an expert by any means but I’ve done 2 dozen arrows with two different bows and I have a similar set up as you. The 300’s worked for me and I bet I could get the 340’s in there too if I trimmed my arrow a hair or two.
 
Could be. Honestly 250 spine sounds way stiffer than you’d need it to be for a 28” ctc shaft. I am not an expert by any means but I’ve done 2 dozen arrows with two different bows and I have a similar set up as you. The 300’s worked for me and I bet I could get the 340’s in there too if I trimmed my arrow a hair or two.
250 spine with 100 gr insert and 200gr broadhead would be overspined? I’m all new to this
 
Well a 250 spine 28” shaft is much stiffer than a 250 spine 32” shaft. I can’t tell you for sure but it seems like it could very well be.

Did you move your rest to the left a bunch by any chance?
 
Do those broadheads spin test OK? If they do then punch some paper with them and see what that tells you. Adding fletch will change your spine a little so you may need a slight rest adjustment. Just follow the paper.
 
May just need minute adjustments to your rest to fine tune them. I dealt with a similar issue last year but I moved my rest maybe 1/16-1/8” and I had FP and BH touching.
 
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Very true ^^ paper is really just a good starting point and then walk back tuning could get you perfect with those minor rest adjustments.
 
Very true ^^ paper is really just a good starting point and then walk back tuning could get you perfect with those minor rest adjustments.
Exactly. I paper tune with a bare shaft first then walk back tune and finish with broadhead check/tuning.
Maybe worth a shot if they’re hitting close but not quite together for OP.
 
The best way to do it is to French tune. That will get you pretty close, then move your rest very small amounts until you’re satisfied. If you’re transitioning from expandable’s to fixed, a big factor I personally had a problem with was keeping my bow hand completely relaxed. If I didn’t the fixed wouldn’t fly right. As for spine, I would think 250 or 300 would be good for your setup, doesn’t hurt too much to go a little stiffer.
 
I’ll check out how to do those tuning methods, and report back in a couple days. I tried moving sight a bit too but they would always push right, vertical flying was good. Haven’t messed with rest too much because I adjusted the rest while bareshaft paper tuning with FP
 
Yeah let us know when you get it sorted out. I always like to add stuff to my troubleshooting checklist
 
Yeah that .250 sounds a little stiff especially for a 28" CtoC shaft but also, did you nock tune each bare shaft to be sure you are shooting off the stiffest side of the arrow. Otherwise you will have inconsistent flight with bare shafts. Some guys are switching the heavy arrow process now and first paper tuning with a fully fletched arrow to get close and then making fine adjustments via bare shaft through paper; however, you must be certain that your bare shafts have been "nock tuned before shooting them through paper.

Also, spin test your broadheads on your shaft to make sure they don't wobble on the shaft. You've got good broadheads so the ferrules on them should be straight but you never know. Like @Weldabeast mentioned too, if you didn't cut your own arrows or didn't run them through an arrow squaring tool, they could be cut slightly off square which will be exaggerated with broadheads. In other words, your fletching will stear the field tips nicely but enter a bigger broadhead up front and if they are a little crookedly cut, the broadhead flight will magnify that. Also, if you do your own arrow builds you want to take material off both ends of the shaft rather than just from one end, especially if you're shooting more economical arrow shafts. Also, maybe fletch with either more aggressive helical if you can to stabilize them a little better if you've tried everything else mentioned above. Just some other considerations.
 
Through my own experience, I have come to the conclusion that a bare shaft is not equal to a fletched shaft as far as tuning goes. I wasted so much time tuning my bare shafts for bullet holes, only to fletch them and shoot tares. Now I just tune with bare shafts to make sure I have small tares to get me close then concentrate my time on fletched arrows through paper. Then I go through the “Easton tuning guide” online to dial them in. After that I could care less about shooting paper and if they would tear or not because they are then flying where they need to.
 
So I checked fletched flight through paper yesterday and they were shooting straight. All shafts were nock tuned as well. The 300 and 250 spine shafts I ordered are Sirius apollo’s and I have them spine align, install, and square the shaft ends. Only thing I did at home was fletch.
 
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