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1” carbon fiber square tubing - Sticks

Mschmeiske

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2017
Messages
1,947
Location
New York
Has anyone purchased 1” carbon fiber squared tubing and put EWO or Beast stand offs and steps on it? I was curious what the weight would be? Do you think it’s much lighter than 1/8th inch thick aluminum tubing? Also, where might I find some if I wanted to try it and how thick should it be?
 
Has anyone purchased 1” carbon fiber squared tubing and put EWO or Beast stand offs and steps on it? I was curious what the weight would be? Do you think it’s much lighter than 1/8th inch thick aluminum tubing? Also, where might I find some if I wanted to try it and how thick should it be?
Cruzer has two sicks comming out. They are the same except one uses a aluminum tube and the other is carbon. The sticks have 18" step spacing. Cruzr has said the carbon sticks are 5 oz lighter.
 
For 6061,

3/4x.110” wall weighs about .35lbs per foot.

3/4x.125” wall weighs about .37lbs per foot.

1”x.0625” wall weighs about .3lbs per foot.

1”x.125” wall weighs about .52lbs per foot.


To get carbon with enough strength in a lighter weight, you’re using hardware, spacers, and other components and dimensions of other components that increase weight. UNLESS, you’re deep in this and have significant experience with carbon or money to pay someone who does.

Geek off the street isn’t going to win on weight. You can make a quieter stick, probably.

Want to cut weight? Have someone weld you sticks out of aluminum components.

I can get a 18” step spacing at 1.2-1.3lbs per stick double sticks no moving components for a 250lb fella using every hunt for 4 seasons with no sign of fatigue.

If we built the same sticks with .75x.110, it would easily hold my weight(200lbs). I’d probably go with 17” step spacing. Sticks would be at or less than a pound.


But - I’m rooting for ya! Let us know what you come up with.

I’d build a prototype with readily available thicker wall carbon tubing until you get the concept down, then spring for the expensive thinner wall stuff.
 
This road has been travelled


 
The juice ain’t worth the squeeze.

There is a reason carbon sticks that have came onto the market have had short standoffs. Someone last year but ewo stand-offs on a catalyst carbon pro and snapped the stick in half.
 
Ti is pretty strong and light. The Gen III's so far have been very nice to climb with and carry!!
 
Ti is pretty strong and light. The Gen III's so far have been very nice to climb with and carry!!

I keep hearing the Gen 3s are much better, but I don’t think I can bring myself to buying a product from Tethrd. I’m also skeptical of these new connection points coming out on sticks compared to a bolt and versa button.
 
I keep hearing the Gen 3s are much better, but I don’t think I can bring myself to buying a product from Tethrd. I’m also skeptical of these new connection points coming out on sticks compared to a bolt and versa button.
I here you, I agree with you, I get what you're saying and I am certainly not a Tethrd fanboy by any stretch... believe me.... but my experience so far using and carrying these sticks..... I'm telling you I really like them. Cons? Very tinny you have to quiet them down. Also, the amsteel ropes and the gap for the ropes are both narrow..... I have beefier ropes to use if the OEM ones wear out but I"m not sure I will be able to use the notches with them. I would like to see a slightly larger notch and perhaps a slightly larger "button" as well.
 
The juice ain’t worth the squeeze.

There is a reason carbon sticks that have came onto the market have had short standoffs. Someone last year but ewo stand-offs on a catalyst carbon pro and snapped the stick in half.

This goes for other lightweight solutions as well (like the ONE). Reduces the bending moment.

I'm curious about how the longer TN standoffs will hold up.
 
Round carbon fiber tubing is lighter and stronger than 1" square stuff. That said, any attachment point should be bonded on and encapsulate the stick, go all the way around it, not drilled through.
You could fill in the triangular gaps with the bonding agent, the best mid point of easiest, strongest, and cheapest bonding agent you can buy in smaller quantities would be plexus methacrylate MA422 or MA420. then you'll need a special gun for the cartridge.
If you do drill a hole in the tube you'd have to both put something in the center of the tube as a hard point to take the pressure off the weak, shear strength of the walls and reinforce the sides without the holes with a bonded thin carbon plate or add layers of carbon if you are using the high modulus thin cf.
 
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If you're just using a cf tube and still using aluminum steps....you're wasting your time and money. Weight losses from only the tube swap would be minimal. Now if you make cf steps and platform to go with your cf tube, now thats a big change!
 
Has anyone purchased 1” carbon fiber squared tubing and put EWO or Beast stand offs and steps on it? I was curious what the weight would be? Do you think it’s much lighter than 1/8th inch thick aluminum tubing? Also, where might I find some if I wanted to try it and how thick should it be?
Clearwater composites has a good selection and a variety of shapes, sizes and strengths. You'll have to study up abt it to know the differences in quality of modulus.
 
If you're just using a cf tube and still using aluminum steps....you're wasting your time and money. Weight losses from only the tube swap would be minimal. Now if you make cf steps and platform to go with your cf tube, now thats a big change!

Sub 1lb is probably doable with aluminum steps, but requires advanced knowledge, equipment, and skills. Checkmout how far @Sandor27 got:

 
Sub 1lb is probably doable with aluminum steps, but requires advanced knowledge, equipment, and skills. Checkmout how far @Sandor27 got:

Lol, you're right it can totally be done! Alot of what I said is in that thread, but also alot of ignorance. It's cool to see it was 4/5 years ago!
A bonded joint between the step and tube would be stronger than the step, but it would have to be done right. Abrade both surfaces, wipe with isopropyl alcohol until spotless, put separate metal and composite primer on them, then a good epoxy glue or meth. You wouldn't need a bolt or end cap.
 
Done for fun and the experience, it'd be great! But you'll pay more than buying a fancy stick today...unless you work for a place that has stuff like that readily available!
 
Carbon Fiber actively participates in the galvanic corrosion process of aluminum. This is just another hurdle you will face if mating carbon fiber and aluminum. It needs a barrier between the 2. I’m not smart enough to know if the anodizing on aluminum can protect it from the galvanic corrosion.


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Carbon Fiber actively participates in the galvanic corrosion process of aluminum. This is just another hurdle you will face if mating carbon fiber and aluminum. It needs a barrier between the 2. I’m not smart enough to know if the anodizing on aluminum can protect it from the galvanic corrosion.


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Carbon Fiber actively participates in the galvanic corrosion process of aluminum. This is just another hurdle you will face if mating carbon fiber and aluminum. It needs a barrier between the 2. I’m not smart enough to know if the anodizing on aluminum can protect it from the galvanic corrosion.


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When bonded correctly, the bonding agent or glue, IS the barrier between the 2 materials and prevents electron flow. No bare aluminum should touch the bare carbon.
Also the galvanic corrosion only accelerates into visible dangerous corrosion in the presence of moisture, so dry your stick off every evening.
Yes the anodizing could help but you have to sand it off or !t least through it to get a good bond...so it's a non factor.
 
I am speaking from experience, as all 3 of my cf platforms have aluminum studs to grip the tree and none have experienced galvanic corrosion due to the meth between them.
 
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