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150 grain Iron Will Wide Solid

Newhunter1

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2018
Messages
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I just changed my set up from GT kinetic pierce platnums 415 grain arrows to Day 6 300 spine and 571 grain arrows. The bow and arrow combination was shooting great with field tips. I got some 150 grain oz cut broadheads but I'm having a hard time sharpening them. They fly exactly with my field tips but man when I shot my Iron will 150 grain wide solid heads they flew to the left and at an angle. I was surprised but when I put the arrow back on the bow...I could see that the head was at an angle. So I rotated the nock till the head was perpendicular and then they flew straight. Didn't realize that the heads could be catch so much wind and have a planning issue. I'll continue to shoot the Iron will and see what else I can do till I get it with my field points.
 
Is there a better way to shoot the IW? I have a 4 fletch arrow and want to have my flight perfect.
 
The broadheads are machined to pretty tight tolerances. So likely they are true. Fixed heads highlight arrow build issues, bow tune issues, and form issues. Bigger ones show more dramatic effects.

arrows square?

nock tuned?

bow tuned?

you tuned?
 
That is sorta odd to me. A buddy order some IW's a couple years ago and one of the heads did not spin true when he got them. It was close but not perfect. It would still group with field points out to 80 yards. I'm talking in a baseball at 80. He took it a part and reassembled it a couple of times til he got to spin perfect but he couldnt tell any difference in flight. Makes me think kyler is asking the right questions. Something besides the head is at play.
 
If you continue to have issues with that head, you might want to give the daysix heads a whirl. I got a set of those and they fly great too. Both exceptionally well built heads best I can I tell.
 
The broadheads are machined to pretty tight tolerances. So likely they are true. Fixed heads highlight arrow build issues, bow tune issues, and form issues. Bigger ones show more dramatic effects.

arrows square?

nock tuned?

bow tuned?

you tuned?

Appreciate the questions. I did not build my arrows. I had my proshop build them and he's been doing this all of his life. His grandfather started the archery shop and he's literally grown up in that shop. I've known him for close to 15 years and trust him. Bow is definitely tuned to these arrows. It was shooting perfect bullet holes and flying straight. With the oz cut broadheads they were hitting with my fieldpoints at 20 yards. They are not as big as the IW, but they are a 3 blade vs. a 4 blade. The one thing that I saw was that my broadhead was sitting at an angle instead of aligned with my vanes...it was off set. I have a four fletch and I took my nock and turned it so that the head was sitting straight up and down...the main blade. I shot it one more time and this time it hit 1" high from the bullseye. I'll play with it some more but I think just a little tweaking will get it to hit with my field point.
 
There was an interesting post in ther trad section a bit ago about broadhead orientation. The text from it is below. May be applicable... may not.
While the arguments are endless about what the orientation of broadheads should be, there is a physics preference for them to be perpendicular to the bow. I understand that archers are able to compensate for bad mechanics, psychological quirks, and a host of other factors that would otherwise degrade their accuracy, but if you ignore the physics, it's just one more thing that makes arrows more difficult to control. As you release the arrow, a naturally induced flex occurs perpendicular to the bow. If you build your arrows "right" that same mode of flexing will persist as the arrow twists through the air clear to the target. That means if your broadheads are mounted vertically, that flex will be side to side and the whole flat surface of the blade will act on the wind first in one direction and then in another for the whole course of the arrow downrange. Of course, the arrow will begin to twist faster and faster, but this won't affect the relationship between the direction of flex and the broadhead orientation.

If you mount your broadhead perpendicular to the bow, the head will flex edge on to the plane of flex with almost zero sail area, so you'll get a lot less steerage from the broadhead. The forces acting on the head (arrow) increase with the square of the velocity too, so our 120 mph arrows are pretty sensitive to sail area and the worst place for that sail to be is at the front of the arrow. It's an open question whether the arrow might dampen faster one way or the other. Once the arrow is fully damped, you don't have any carving, so this issue goes away. Since the arrow starts out at maximum velocity, most of the damage is done early in the flight with the highest forces, the greatest flex, and the least stabilization. Any advantage of faster dampening that might accrue to the case with the heads vertical, which is questionable anyway, is probably swamped by the much larger forces at work early in the flight when the arrow is most vulnerable.

I have heard people prefer the vertical orientation because they like the sight picture, however.





How significant is this?
 
There was an interesting post in ther trad section a bit ago about broadhead orientation. The text from it is below. May be applicable... may not.

I agree with this. I only shot once, used the same form as the first shot and it was then 1" high above the bullseye.
 
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