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2TC-K.I.S.S. Videos: Part 2 can be found in Post #36

Great job. Ever try a Blake’s instead of the bowline? Would allow for adjustability and is almost as easy to tie. I’ve always 2TC on an amsteel whoopie sling, but your lineman’s idea is spectacular.

Also, do you girth your lineman’s to your loop afterward or store the whole thing? I normally leave it girthed and daisy chained up behind me, but I don’t think that the amount of effort to girth and daisy will continue to warrant carrying an extra rope…

Last thought, limbs? Is part 3 in the works?

By the way, excellent job on the video and editing.


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FrankNess14 said:
Great job. Ever try a Blake’s instead of the bowline? Would allow for adjustability and is almost as easy to tie. I’ve always 2TC on an amsteel whoopie sling, but your lineman’s idea is spectacular.

Also, do you girth your lineman’s to your loop afterward or store the whole thing? I normally leave it girthed and daisy chained up behind me, but I don’t think that the amount of effort to girth and daisy will continue to warrant carrying an extra rope…

Last thought, limbs? Is part 3 in the works?

By the way, excellent job on the video and editing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
For my setup, I keep (2) identical tethers in my saddle pouch. That way, if something happens to my tether, I can retrieve the backup and not think about it. Truthfully, since both tethers are identical (Kong Duck, carabiner, tag end tied to carabiner), the even easier approach is to simply leave everything attached on the 2nd, foot loop tether. The Duck/biner simply replaces the bowline and allows for greater and simpler adjustability.

Since this was a K.I.S.S. series, I removed the Duck/biner from the footloop since most saddle kits won't come that way.

A Part 3 is certainly doable as a more advanced techniques video. I could certainly add passing a limb (I hinted at it in Part 1) and show alternative footloop methods.
 
MNFarmHunter said:
For my setup, I keep (2) identical tethers in my saddle pouch. That way, if something happens to my tether, I can retrieve the backup and not think about it. Truthfully, since both tethers are identical (Kong Duck, carabiner, tag end tied to carabiner), the even easier approach is to simply leave everything attached on the 2nd, foot loop tether. The Duck/biner simply replaces the bowline and allows for greater and simpler adjustability.

Since this was a K.I.S.S. series, I removed the Duck/biner from the footloop since most saddle kits won't come that way.

A Part 3 is certainly doable as a more advanced techniques video. I could certainly add passing a limb (I hinted at it in Part 1) and show alternative footloop methods.
Click to expand...

Love it. I noticed the tied in carabiner on the tether. I should do that too, I normally wait until situated in the tree. And yeah, that’d make the footloop super simple.


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I’ve got a CGM 2TC kit ordered, but fixed a kit myself this week with spare gear.

Tether: 8’ Sterling C-IV with a figure 8 tied eye and a Prusik with Prusik tender.

2nd Tether: same as the one above, but I converted a Swaider I had so that it was a loop that I could snap into the Prusik on my 2nd tether

Backup tether for going around branches is an Amsteel daisy chain.

I had another spare Swaider so I’m going to play around with having 2 leg loops on separate prusiks at the same height as well as at differing heights. 2 loops would function similar to how the “soft platform” that was posted not long ago.

Going to my buddies next weekend to shoot bows and tinker with gear. I’ll let you know how my different 2TC experiences go.


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I watched the videos, but didn't catch how long your tethers are. What is the raw length of rope you use? Are they the same? Thanks!
 
These are the standard, 8' length tethers. In the video, the footloop is a pre-made, sewn eye tether but my tether is a 10' section of C-IV with a figure-8 giving it a finished length of 8'.
 
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