Muskyhunter
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2019
- Messages
- 132
I was able to trim 1/2 inch off the shrink tube and that gave me enough room to complete the 4th wrap. Thanks for the tip.
-
The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
-
We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules
5.5mm / 6mm eye-to-eye hitch cords
- Thread starter Chrighton
- Start date
I may do the same.
FireInMyBones
New Member
That is a thing of beauty. Did you use a Class 2 splice on this? It looks too clean for that. I just broke a D splicer attempting a modified variant of a 16 strand splice on Sterling TRC after successfully making one eye-eye with it, but wanting to go with tail. This might be a more affordable option.
Last edited:
FireInMyBones
New Member
I'm playing around with the left over Sterling TRC. I have tons of Amsteel that I'm considering replacing the core with. How do you modify the splice to avoid dealing with the cover? I'm familiar with the locked brummel, but not when using a cover. I'm confident with my splices, but I'm working to improve the aesthetic.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Great, it’s good to know where you’re at with splicing. Naked eye splices use the cover only between the eyes, making the second brummel easier to do. The core is spliced first like a single braid and the cover added after. For the true naked eye, the eyes are coated with something to make clipping easier. Usually DIYers use electrical tape, but lots of other options, pros use a urethane base coating, but very expensive for the commercial stuff, a light dip in plain urethane would be just as protective. The eyes can also be covered before splicing, using something like paracord cover, as long as the main cover will slide over, like the bottom two in picture below.
3mm would be the size of Amsteel to use, to test to see if the cover will fit over the eye, take a small piece and make an eye with short bury, this will be how large the splice will get. Try to slide the cover on the small spliced piece, going over the eye first, if it goes, then the cover can be added later. If it doesn’t fit then the cover will have to be put on after the first eye is spliced and then bunched up out of the way for the second eye.
I make the cover bunchy, but not too much, on these to make them flexible, the slack can make the middle flexible, and also in the splice area bendable enough to be included in the hitch for shorter legs.
In the picture, the top two eyes are from a commercially made hitch cord, the next is 3/16” Amsteel in 8mm UltraTech cover. The next was an attempt at flexibility in the splice area by using a larger diameter cover at the splice and sewn together. The TRC has the separate covered eye also, but the core is six separate strands in a continuous loop, just shown for the covered eye.
3mm would be the size of Amsteel to use, to test to see if the cover will fit over the eye, take a small piece and make an eye with short bury, this will be how large the splice will get. Try to slide the cover on the small spliced piece, going over the eye first, if it goes, then the cover can be added later. If it doesn’t fit then the cover will have to be put on after the first eye is spliced and then bunched up out of the way for the second eye.
I make the cover bunchy, but not too much, on these to make them flexible, the slack can make the middle flexible, and also in the splice area bendable enough to be included in the hitch for shorter legs.
In the picture, the top two eyes are from a commercially made hitch cord, the next is 3/16” Amsteel in 8mm UltraTech cover. The next was an attempt at flexibility in the splice area by using a larger diameter cover at the splice and sewn together. The TRC has the separate covered eye also, but the core is six separate strands in a continuous loop, just shown for the covered eye.
FireInMyBones
New Member
Most of that maked perfect sense, thank you. With core dependant hitch cords, I knew the splice pattern, but not the best way to finish the eyes.
From the picture of the TRC, it appears that the covered eye is placed under the main cover and then lock stitched in place. Since the core was replaced by six separate strands, I want to confirm that those are six continuous loops and not 3 continuous loops making up the six strands (3 strands essentially doubling in count since they are looped making a total of six).
Looking back on previous tests of the bury splice in 3mm core, there was a10% strength lost, so might not be strong enough for some. I also tried a cover only splice where the buries bypassed each other the full length and into the opposite eye and got about the same results.
I found I could do the multi strands splice and get the covered eyes, but it took me a couple tries to figure it out. There is only a single loop inside, and is threaded through to have three loops inside, making six strands in the middle. The ends of the core are straight buried for an end to end splice. The cover eyes are sewed together and don’t go through the core strands so that the strands can self equalize while tying and when loaded.
I found I could do the multi strands splice and get the covered eyes, but it took me a couple tries to figure it out. There is only a single loop inside, and is threaded through to have three loops inside, making six strands in the middle. The ends of the core are straight buried for an end to end splice. The cover eyes are sewed together and don’t go through the core strands so that the strands can self equalize while tying and when loaded.
Question: If I’m running the Edelrid 8.9mm which one would you suggest for that rope?
FireInMyBones
New Member
Thank you for the clarification. I was debating on doing multiple dogbones or one long continuous loop.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
The cover between the eyes needs extra length to stay flexible. They are fairly easy to do once understood, the strands and cover aren’t attached to each other so the insides can move around in the cover to do the buries, I position the buries in the center.
Trying to make separate loops, or dogbones would be difficult to make the same length, I thought of maybe burying the end in the strand next to it to have an odd number of loops, but decided this would make two fixed length loops, and also be hard to equalize. Plus the carabiner is an arc and the middle one might not see much of the load.
Trying to make separate loops, or dogbones would be difficult to make the same length, I thought of maybe burying the end in the strand next to it to have an odd number of loops, but decided this would make two fixed length loops, and also be hard to equalize. Plus the carabiner is an arc and the middle one might not see much of the load.
FireInMyBones
New Member
That was my conclusion as well concerning equalizing the strands. Covering the tails will be the next mind game with one continuous loop coiled/ folded to make multiple strands. Fitting multiple strands of 7/64 (what I have) through the cover will likely be the most tedious component.
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
7/64 is 2.78mm, two loops, or four strands in the middle would be the limit, and adding extra cover for flexibility might not be large enough in diameter and could be stiff with the cover expansion. Multiply the break strength of a single strand by four and then subtract 30% for an approximation of total strength.
I recently got some New England Ropes 1.8mm dyneema with a 1000 lbs. break strength, but it is quite a bit bigger than the 1.75mm vectran I’m using now, too large for this cover.
For the nicer covered eye, there will be four holes that the strand end will have to go through, just a matter of going through them in correct sequence. You bury as far as possible, then you grab all the strands and rotate them inside the cover to be able to bury more, can do this as much as needed. Then rotate back into final position before closing up eyes.
I recently got some New England Ropes 1.8mm dyneema with a 1000 lbs. break strength, but it is quite a bit bigger than the 1.75mm vectran I’m using now, too large for this cover.
For the nicer covered eye, there will be four holes that the strand end will have to go through, just a matter of going through them in correct sequence. You bury as far as possible, then you grab all the strands and rotate them inside the cover to be able to bury more, can do this as much as needed. Then rotate back into final position before closing up eyes.
I’m glad you asked this, I either didn’t test, or have forgotten, so had to try some different cords out. I started with TRC, which needs more wraps to grab due to the Technora covers of both the hitch cord and the host rope, and to some extent the smooth covers of both. I used the Sticht Hitch and the stopper knot at end type of eyes to be able to compare apples to apples. I usually need five wraps on Oplux, but only needed four on the Swift, and could drop down to three wraps with just slight slipping before grabbing, better than four wraps on the Oplux. I didn’t need to test any more, as the rest would grab reliably since they do on the Oplux.
FireInMyBones
New Member
Six strands of 1.75mm line is impressive. I have a large spool of 1.75mm Zing It with a MBS of 500# x 6 x .7 / 224.8 is ~ 9Kn
This is likely less than your Vectran line (though I don't know the specs).
7/64 Amsteel MBS is 1600# x 4 x .7 / 224.8 is ~20Kn I think I'll give that a try.
Does my math check out?
Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I'm new here and maybe late to this thread, but Cruzr makes a nice 20" eye-to-eye from 6mm Sterling TRC, and more importantly (and not advertised on their website I don't think), they'll make them up in any length you want. I recently bought a standard 20" and also had them make me a custom 32" ... they both shipped out on the same day I spoke to them.
www.cruzr.shop
CRÜZR Distel/Schwabish Hitch cord
Secure your gear with the Cruzr Distelschwabish Hitch Cord. Strong and durable, this cord is perfect for use in a variety of outdoor activities. Buy now!
www.cruzr.shop
Thanks for the link I'm going to give them a try. The 6mm probe eye to eye that Dano sells locks up so tight on Oplux after weighting with a distel or schwabish It's a PITA to break loose. I was able to get it to tend and hold using a VT with 3 wraps and 2 braids.
Like I mentioned, I'm new to this and shouldn't be giving advice, but I've been playing around a lot with different combinations of hitches and mechanical devices. I've abandoned the Kongs at this point for a few reasons ... plus, I like rope!
Here's how I have them set up right now. I'm using this as a tether to hang between moves (1-sticking) and as a second LB when going around branches. I've found that sometimes I need a third line, so I keep the first 10-feet of my rappel rope with the Madrock handy and ready to use too. I originally ordered the 28" unit to use as a safety/backup above my Madrock while hunting (on my rappel line). I wanted the eye-to-eye so I could just take it from my pack and easily install it for the hunt and tie a Shwabisch or Distel, etc. Prussiks get too tight for me and Autoblocks are too loose for my intended purpose, so a loop of line just doesn't work for me. But I seem to be moving away from using the Madrock until I'm ready to come down the tree, so what you see below will probably become my hunting tether. It's all a work in progress for me. Anyhoo, that's TMI for this post. It helps me to review my though process and I just drank a turbo cup of coffee, lol.
I have a Schwabisch on the top and Distel on the bottom. I find it pretty easy to break with the tender after I've had it fully loaded vertically. I'm probably 250 lbs in the tree. The Schwabisch above acts both as a backup in case the Distal slips, but it also makes a great tender to break the hitch from above. But more importantly, I can get enough grip on it that I can also rappel on it when I need to drop down a bit while pulling my 1-stick for the move up. It's never really weighted unless I'm just not paying attention.
The tether is 8mm Oplux. I plan to buy a couple of those brass Kong Mini 8's to use as tenders the next time I place an order with EWO. I think they'll make breaking the hitches even easier. Plus, I'm gonna bust that plastic thing at some point, guaranteed ... probably on a cold, rainy, icy day.
Do your hitch cords have a MBS rating on them. I emailed Cruzr and they told me they were rated at just over 3000 Lbs so they are in the 10% loss of strength ballpark with the sewn eyes. Just wondered if they put the rating on the tag.
Curious if you have tried the hitches one at a time seperatley and how they held and broke loose after being weighted?
Curious if you have tried the hitches one at a time seperatley and how they held and broke loose after being weighted?