Yeah, and apparently it's genetic. My 5'7" 12yr old has a legitimate 28" draw.
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.500 spine arrows? (tradbow)
- Thread starter DanielB89
- Start date
Yeah, and apparently it's genetic. My 5'7" 12yr old has a legitimate 28" draw.
At 13 I was already 5’11” and weighed 126 lbs. I ended up 6’ and that’s all. I inherited my dad’s short, fat sausage fingers. Kills my draw length
I’m even suspect of the 400 that long with 300 up front. Even with 100 less grains and nearly 2” less draw length I get a weak arrow tune with a 400. Either I am doing something horribly wrong, and I’m more than willing to accept that, or there is more factors involved.
Hmmm...that seems a little odd but I have zero experience with ilf rigs and plungers. In my experience the biggest factors that I think people underestimate are the effects of are draw length and center cut of the bow. If you have your rest set up well past center I could potentially see those results.
Edit: I tried to shoot 350 spines out of the #47 bow above but a full length shaft with 300 up front was a little stiff. As I was cutting down the 400 and was approaching my draw length ai did start to wonder if I was going to be in some "no man's" land where I couldn't get the 400 short enough to fly and the 350 was too stiff but, the 400's ended up working somewhere between 30.5" and 31" don't remember exactly.
Interesting. I have my plunger set at centershot. Arrow point just touching left side of string when string is center down the bow. I had to put my stiffest spring in and have it almost bottomed to move the arrow stiff. This could be my release, but I suspect it’s something else.
Another factor I think is how in plane the bow limbs operate from brace, to full draw, and back to brace during the shot. I know Cody Greenwood has been mapping this factor out. Seeing a bow draw out of plane could factor into what type of spine is needed.
So my bow is cut a little past center but the tab on the Hoyt super rest pushes it back to just shy of center. Hard to see in the pic but my arrow tip is more left of the string then yours. This could account for some to most of the difference.
I agree with how in plane the limbs are could also have an effect. I was just listening to Cody talk about that the other day on a podcast.
I also think string material and thickness, silencers, brace height, etc can all make a small difference. All of those things aligned in the right way could maybe add up to a bigger difference.
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Bigfoot522
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2019
- Messages
- 711
Where the arrow sits on the shelf/rest is important and like you stated about set ups, thos also is often not as perceived.
I did the eyeball thing leaning the bow on something and went from there. Not good.
What I do take a bow square and lay it along the outside of the riser 90* toward the string. It should point like an arrow with the square across the string.
Make a mark if you have to where the string lines up. Be sure the square is flat along face of the bow.
Now put an arrow on and flip the square and keep it extended down the arrow as much as possible while having flat contact to riser. Now you can set your arrow with certainty.
Read tuning for tens if you need plunger help.
I will say that for me, the old saying putting a match stik to shim off center is good advice.
I shot stiff and made it work. Over time I started going weaker and I like the results. A shaft set in the middle between shaft center and the outer edge is a sweet spot.
I say I respect a guy that can shoot better for his abilty to tune as much as to shoot.
You need to shoot well to tune, you need to tune good to shoot better.
I did the eyeball thing leaning the bow on something and went from there. Not good.
What I do take a bow square and lay it along the outside of the riser 90* toward the string. It should point like an arrow with the square across the string.
Make a mark if you have to where the string lines up. Be sure the square is flat along face of the bow.
Now put an arrow on and flip the square and keep it extended down the arrow as much as possible while having flat contact to riser. Now you can set your arrow with certainty.
Read tuning for tens if you need plunger help.
I will say that for me, the old saying putting a match stik to shim off center is good advice.
I shot stiff and made it work. Over time I started going weaker and I like the results. A shaft set in the middle between shaft center and the outer edge is a sweet spot.
I say I respect a guy that can shoot better for his abilty to tune as much as to shoot.
You need to shoot well to tune, you need to tune good to shoot better.
Also what a lot of people don't think about is the knocking point. Shooting split finger I need a lower nocking point...about 1/4" high, shooting three under your nocking point should be higher...around 5/8". Shooting split finger with a high nocking point can cause a lot of fish tailing on the arrow regardless of "perfect spine", and vise versa shooting three under.