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.500 spine arrows? (tradbow)

DanielB89 said:
If you shoot .500 spine arrows, I would like to know a few different things.

1) What pound bow are you shooting?
2) Your draw length?
3) Arrow length?
4) Tip weight?
Click to expand...
Bow is about 3/8 prior to center cut
43#
31.5
32
125g
 
Good thread . I would have thought many of the 500 set ups here would be underspined when looking at manufacturers chart.
I shoot 400 spine from 45lbs and 50lbs ilf , as well as my ability allows anyway.
Currently dialing in 500’s for my 40# one piece recurve ( 39# at 28 but I draw around 41- 42# )
 
Draw weight= 56#@28
Draw length =27 1/2"
Arrow length= 28 1/4
Point weight= 325 grain point with a 100 grain stainless insert in the arrow shaft. Total arrow weight is about 675 grains.

This is a Northern Mist Classic, straight end Hill style longbow and is not cut anywhere close to center. The arrow has to flex around the riser and straighten out to shoot correctly with this style bow, hence the weak spined arrow shaft. This set up flies like a dart bare shaft. I use either 3 or 4 fletch A&A feathers, 2 1/2 inch length.
 
TreeCreep said:
Good thread . I would have thought many of the 500 set ups here would be underspined when looking at manufacturers chart.
I shoot 400 spine from 45lbs and 50lbs ilf , as well as my ability allows anyway.
Currently dialing in 500’s for my 40# one piece recurve ( 39# at 28 but I draw around 41- 42# )
Click to expand...
I’d agree. Most of these setups are counter to my experience. At 42-46# a .500 with anything over a 150 grain point is terribly weak for me. Even that is borderline with a full length shaft. Maybe my release stinks that bad.
 
JSEXTON23 said:
I’d agree. Most of these setups are counter to my experience. At 42-46# a .500 with anything over a 150 grain point is terribly weak for me. Even that is borderline with a full length shaft. Maybe my release stinks that bad.
Click to expand...
There is a lot that goes into making an arrow work with a bow. A friend of mine says it's Voodoo. One big one is how close or far from center the bow is cut. A center shot bow will need a stiffer arrow, all things being equal, than a bow that has very little shelf. A 50# recurve cut close to center will probably need a stiffer arrow than a 50# Hill style longbow with a shallow shelf even with the same overall weight arrow.
 
JSEXTON23 said:
I’d agree. Most of these setups are counter to my experience. At 42-46# a .500 with anything over a 150 grain point is terribly weak for me. Even that is borderline with a full length shaft. Maybe my release stinks that bad.
Click to expand...

There are many factors that determine the spine of arrow needed and none of them is more important than your release. At one time I shot tournaments at a very high level with a VERY stiff arrow. It worked with a field tip for tournaments but when I would put a broadhead on the front it would always shot stiff. IMO, a .500 spine arrow should be shot for bows from 45 - 55ish depending on tip weight. I know some very good archers who shoot a 500 spine arrow with 300 grains out front on a 50ish pound bow. There are some guys who just have it. They can grab pretty much any arrow and make it fly well enough to kill. There are other guys who can tell a difference in 25 grains of weight up front.
 
HuumanCreed said:
What tip weight would you need shoot a .500 arrow at 28DL if your bow is 40 lbs?

Asking for a friend......
Click to expand...

Whatever weight you have the most of.

But, on a serious note you can see from reading this thread that arrow length, draw length, center cut of bow, rest type, string type, release, etc. all play a role in tuning an arrow to your bow. In my opinion, if you are just starting, screw on whatever field points you have and go shoot. Assuming your .500 spine arrows are close to full length they will fly well enough that they won't be the limiting factor if shooting field points. Keep the distances close, work on your form and have fun. As you get your form down and get better then you can start a tuning process and figure out what point weight, arrow length, etc. work for you and your bow.
 
HuumanCreed said:
What tip weight would you need shoot a .500 arrow at 28DL if your bow is 40 lbs?

Asking for a friend......
Click to expand...

The best way to see would be to shoot it through paper if they're already fletched. Keeping adding weight until it flies straight. I would bet you'd have a hard time getting a .500 to shoot right out of a 40 pound bow..
 
My bow... 62" pse shaman recurve...shot off the shelf. 40# @28", I draw 27.25, I use a gold tip traditional 500 cut to 30", 73 grain insert, 125 grain field point and broadhead, with gold tip accu tune knocks, three 4" trad vanes. Best set up I have found. Fly great.
 
josh9284 said:
My bow... 62" pse shaman recurve...shot off the shelf. 40# @28", I draw 27.25, I use a gold tip traditional 500 cut to 30", 73 grain insert, 125 grain field point and broadhead, with gold tip accu tune knocks, three 4" trad vanes. Best set up I have found. Fly great.
Click to expand...
This setup makes the most sense to me out of all the postings. My 29” 400s with 200 up front, with a footed shaft, fly weak out of my 44# ilf recurve. And that’s with a shibuya dx plunger! I draw 28.25-28.5”. I can shoot a longer 340 with 200 up front and it tunes stiff or weak depending on my plunger tension.

This thread confirms my desire to go to traditional archers houses, public and private club shoots, and anywhere else somebody shoots a stickbow, with a video camera and a marked arrow and video people shooting their rigs. My objective is to capture in video the actual measured draw length when the archer releases the arrow with the marked reference arrow. My bet is on a lot of collapses, creeps, snap shots before hitting claimed draw length, etc. I’d like to document claimed versus actually measured draw length at the shot. My guess is it’s often not what people say it is. This won’t sit well with traditional archers, but it needs to be done. If for anything else, my own sanity.
 
JSEXTON23 said:
This thread confirms my desire to go to traditional archers houses, public and private club shoots, and anywhere else somebody shoots a stickbow, with a video camera and a marked arrow and video people shooting their rigs. My objective is to capture in video the actual measured draw length when the archer releases the arrow with the marked reference arrow. My bet is on a lot of collapses, creeps, snap shots before hitting claimed draw length, etc. I’d like to document claimed versus actually measured draw length at the shot. My guess is it’s often not what people say it is. This won’t sit well with traditional archers, but it needs to be done. If for anything else, my own sanity.
Click to expand...
You know my address and already got an invite ;)
 
If I had to choose one arrow that can work on any of my bows it is a .500 all day long.
I can shoot them light or heavy, long or trimmed.
I have .400s among my handfulls of left overs and I also shot piledrivers for many years but for a versital, tunable workhorse .500s
 
JSEXTON23 said:
This setup makes the most sense to me out of all the postings. My 29” 400s with 200 up front, with a footed shaft, fly weak out of my 44# ilf recurve. And that’s with a shibuya dx plunger! I draw 28.25-28.5”. I can shoot a longer 340 with 200 up front and it tunes stiff or weak depending on my plunger tension.

This thread confirms my desire to go to traditional archers houses, public and private club shoots, and anywhere else somebody shoots a stickbow, with a video camera and a marked arrow and video people shooting their rigs. My objective is to capture in video the actual measured draw length when the archer releases the arrow with the marked reference arrow. My bet is on a lot of collapses, creeps, snap shots before hitting claimed draw length, etc. I’d like to document claimed versus actually measured draw length at the shot. My guess is it’s often not what people say it is. This won’t sit well with traditional archers, but it needs to be done. If for anything else, my own sanity.
Click to expand...

I agree, I think this thread highlights the effect of draw length. I have several 500 spine Beeman's and I tried really hard to get them to fly out of my 47# recurve cut 1/16" past center. I have a 30" draw confirmed with my clicker. They were way to weak. I ended up with a 400 spine cut just shy if 31" with 300 gr up front.

My 12 yr old shoots full length 500 spines out of his 40# recurve with 300 gr up front. I haven't had him shoot a bare shaft but I have recorded them in Slo-mo and they are pretty close.
 
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