7 bolts to 21 feet high

[mtsrunner]

So, I have mentioned in a few posts that I’m using a bolt aider. I’ve had enough PMs about it that I figured I should just create a post.

So, this isn’t my creation. [mention]flinginairos [/mention] did a video about it and [mention]kyler1945 [/mention] turned me on to it this season.

I made an Amsteel aider for [mention]Nutterbuster [/mention] and then made a video to explain how to use it.

I have since revised the aider that I am using. The girth hitch made my instep sore, so now I’m using a hollowblock footloop girth hitched to my Amsteel aider.

This method is so much more secure than any other aider I have ever tried because the aider runs down and across the tree, effectively locking your foot to the tree.

As always, climbing is dangerous. Don’t do this if you aren’t sure of your comfort with the method.

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[Razorbak66]

Damn that’s cool gonna try it

 

[Buckhorn70]

I’d like to see more input on this method......more people that try the more ideas that are born. Definitely a viable option for bolt/drill users.

I think the aider definitely needs to be “foot friendly” as you will be standing on it for a few seconds drilling the next hole. A wider flatter foot surface?

You could also rappel down but that would mean taking extra rope/gear and fiddling with rope at bottom of the tree after you climb down.

I do like the 2 loops as shown in the video above. One loop that gets your feet offset for climbing up/down and the other loop that gets your feet even for drilling the next hole. I also like the small Amsteel aider...... now just to figure out how to make a wider surface area in the foot part So it’s better on the foot when standing.

 

[mtsrunner]

I’d like to see more input on this method......more people that try the more ideas that are born. Definitely a viable option for bolt/drill users.

I think the aider definitely needs to be “foot friendly” as you will be standing on it for a few seconds drilling the next hole. A wider flatter foot surface?

You could also rappel down but that would mean taking extra rope/gear and fiddling with rope at bottom of the tree after you climb down.

I use a slightly different Aider now. Instead of girth hitching the Amsteel around my foot, I have a Sterling hollowblock Loop girth hitched to an Amsteel Aider like in the video. This is much more comfortable. I also spliced a piece of shock cord through the foot loop that holds it securely to my calf.
I still usually rappel down and just stop and grab my bolts. I don’t save much time rapelling, but when I was using the Aider to descend, I was carrying an emergency rappel kit anyway.

 

[swampsnyper]

I’d like to see more input on this method......more people that try the more ideas that are born. Definitely a viable option for bolt/drill users.

I think the aider definitely needs to be “foot friendly” as you will be standing on it for a few seconds drilling the next hole. A wider flatter foot surface?

You could also rappel down but that would mean taking extra rope/gear and fiddling with rope at bottom of the tree after you climb down.

I do like the 2 loops as shown in the video above. One loop that gets your feet offset for climbing up/down and the other loop that gets your feet even for drilling the next hole. I also like the small Amsteel aider...... now just to figure out how to make a wider surface area in the foot part So it’s better on the foot when standing.

Piece of irrigation tubing or tubular webbing around the amsteel at the foot will help.

 

[swampsnyper]

I use a slightly different Aider now. Instead of girth hitching the Amsteel around my foot, I have a Sterling hollowblock Loop girth hitched to an Amsteel Aider like in the video. This is much more comfortable. I also spliced a piece of shock cord through the foot loop that holds it securely to my calf.
I still usually rappel down and just stop and grab my bolts. I don’t save much time rapelling, but when I was using the Aider to descend, I was carrying an emergency rappel kit anyway.

I'd keep an eye on that girth hitched area for wear. Very cool system you have! Great work!

 

[Razorbak66]

I have a Wild edge aider that is adjustable and pretty wide. Think I’m gonna try that with some extra castration bands and maybe insert a tubular webbing for under my foot and slightly angle the bolts upwards if I use the dipped hook or girth hitch a amsteel loop

 

[mtsrunner]

I have a Wild edge aider that is adjustable and pretty wide. Think I’m gonna try that with some extra castration bands and maybe insert a tubular webbing for under my foot and slightly angle the bolts upwards if I use the dipped hook or girth hitch a amsteel loop

That’s a great point that I forgot to mention. Always drill the bolts at a slight upward angle for this method. Thanks.


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[mtsrunner]

I'd keep an eye on that girth hitched area for wear. Very cool system you have! Great work!

Yep, I expect to replace these every season for that very reason.


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[Buckhorn70]

Piece of irrigation tubing or tubular webbing around the amsteel at the foot will help.

Tree hopper has those bike pedal contraptions that go on the bolts for your foot when using as a platform. Wonder if you could slide one of those over the rope at your foot.

 

[mattsteg]

Tree hopper has those bike pedal contraptions that go on the bolts for your foot when using as a platform. Wonder if you could slide one of those over the rope at your foot.

At some point "bearable" is comfortable enough.

@mtsrunner thanks for reraising this topic. I passed on it last year but a good reminder to try it at some point.

 

[mtsrunner]

At some point "bearable" is comfortable enough.

@mtsrunner thanks for reraising this topic. I passed on it last year but a good reminder to try it at some point.

Yep. Irrigation tubing is plenty to take the pressure off.


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[Buckhorn70]

I tried this method today worked pretty well going up and going down. I used a versa strap I had and girth hitched around my foot. Bolts at 3’,6’,9’12’ and so on every 3 foot..... 10 bolts gets you to 30’..... 7 bolts to 21’. You get the picture.

I think it’s a very viable option for bolt/drill users to cut the amount of bolts you need in half. I hope more people try this method so we can compare ideas and refine the process/method.

 

[SETX hunter]

Following


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[mattsteg]

I tried this method today worked pretty well going up and going down. I used a versa strap I had and girth hitched around my foot. Bolts at 3’,6’,9’12’ and so on every 3 foot..... 10 bolts gets you to 30’..... 7 bolts to 21’. You get the picture.

I think it’s a very viable option for bolt/drill users to cut the amount of bolts you need in half. I hope more people try this method so we can compare ideas and refine the process/method.

"In half" might be a stretch, depending on how far you can stretch out between bolts. If you can stretch out to 2 ft between bolts, it's more like cutting your bolt count in 2/3

 

[Buckhorn70]

"In half" might be a stretch, depending on how far you can stretch out between bolts. If you can stretch out to 2 ft between bolts, it's more like cutting your bolt count in 2/3

yes.... cut in half.

The 3 foot intervals is not how far you stride/stretch, it’s how apart the bolts are on one side of the tree. The versa strap acts as one step in between bolts so your stride is half of 3’ or 18”.......Look at the video at the top of this thread to get the picture.

 

[kyler1945]

"In half" might be a stretch, depending on how far you can stretch out between bolts. If you can stretch out to 2 ft between bolts, it's more like cutting your bolt count in 2/3

one of the keys to this working is that you space bolts evenly. Which means only placing the “right” or “left” bolts. The aider replaces the opposite. Obviously branches and what not change that. So an adjustable aider is a must.

but it does replace half the bolts at a minimum.

 

[SETX hunter]

It will definitely reduce # of bolts, but its actually not in half. If doing the “traditional” bolt method with no aider (like [mention]Nutterbuster [/mention]) then each bolt gets you 2 feet. So 15 bolts = 30 feet.

With this aider, you get 3’ per bolt (18” with the aider step and then another 18” to the next bolt). 10 bolts = 30 feet. So # of bolts is reduced by 33% (15 down to 10 for same 30’ height).

Tall guys may be able to stretch out the aider some, but I don’t think it’s possible for the majority of us. With the aider you have to drill and place the next TWO bolts before moving up, so that you can remove the aider as you go (unless you want to try removing an aider from the only bolt you’re standing on). Stretching the aider into 24” steps would mean 48” between bolts. Drilling and setting 2 bolts 48” apart puts the second bolt 96” or 8’ up. I personally wouldn’t want to drill anything above head height, so I’d stick with 3’ between bolts with the aider.


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[mattsteg]

one of the keys to this working is that you space bolts evenly. Which means only placing the “right” or “left” bolts. The aider replaces the opposite. Obviously branches and what not change that. So an adjustable aider is a must.

but it does replace half the bolts at a minimum.

If you're drilling 2 bolts ahead that's 8 feet. Good luck drilling 8 ft ahead.

 

[SETX hunter]

I would think another advantage is drilling on your dominant side only. One repeatable motion that can be done with more strength and coordination than on the weak side. Should be a little quicker, right? Or at least easier to master.

I’ve never climbed with bolts (considering it this season), so someone correct me if I’m wrong here.


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