This right here is a great ideaI use one of these, perfect size for me. I girth hitch one side and use a biner on the other
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This right here is a great ideaI use one of these, perfect size for me. I girth hitch one side and use a biner on the other
Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
At the 6:15 mark he thins out the core end and at the 7:15 mark he thins out cover end. The Samson instructions I was previously following didn't thin out the core until after it was pulled out through the cover (starting at 12:15). Pulling that full core through beside the other core was one of the hardest parts for me. I was trying to push a fid through there with a full core. Pulling an already tapered end with a small wire fid simplifies this a bunch. By tapering it first it passes through easier. I also think the step of pulling the crossover very tight (13:05) really helps with the bury. I don't remember the Samson instructions I was using clarifying this very well.What do you mean by thinning the cover and core and how is this accomplished?
Thanks, thinking the wire fid is the way to go. Just not enough room with a regular fid. I'll have to make one up.At the 6:15 mark he thins out the core end and at the 7:15 mark he thins out cover end. The Samson instructions I was previously following didn't thin out the core until after it was pulled out through the cover (starting at 12:15). Pulling that full core through beside the other core was one of the hardest parts for me. I was trying to push a fid through there with a full core. Pulling an already tapered end with a small wire fid simplifies this a bunch. By tapering it first it passes through easier. I also think the step of pulling the crossover very tight (13:05) really helps with the bury. I don't remember the Samson instructions I was using clarifying this very well.
Thanks for the help. I used this technique and completed my first splice. I'll use this one as a lineman rope and make a large eye tether next week. I'll then move on to making the spliced eye bridge. Can't thank you enough!What do you mean by thinning the cover and core and how is this accomplished?
I tried this on my Kite after seeing matt6506’s post. It works great.I use one of these, perfect size for me. I girth hitch one side and use a biner on the other
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I have used mine for 2 yrs now, most economical way I've found to avoid those bulky knots.I tried this on my Kite after seeing matt6506’s post. It works great.
What about a ropeman 1 with a carbineer on one side to shorten or lengthen the bridge ??I incorporate a Petzl adjustable bridge device(I took apart the bridge that came with it ) and tie a double fisherman's knot on one bridge loop and use a Petzl ring open to affix the adjuster. I shorten the bridge for ascending and then lengthen it for hunting. Being able to adjust both bridge and tree tether is a nice option.
Ok thanks , I had to look up petzl adjustment bridge to see what it was, makes sense now.I personally would not use the Ropeman in this configuration but others may disagree. There are better but probably will add more hardware. The Petzl adjustable bridge while being pricey is designed for this application and relies on friction not a mechanical device that could have potential failure points.
Yup. Webbing is dope. I originally planned to go back and stitch my bridge once I knew what I wanted, but the knot is so easy and small. It's a non-issue to me.an alternate way to determine bridge length that is cheap, easy to adjust and simply works great is tubular webbing. That's what I did on mine and once I got it where I wanted it, it stayed put. Lots of amsteel guys on here but the webbing is super light no bulk and slides great thru the carabiner. Dave T posted a video on here a long time ago on the water knot for adjustable bridges and it works great - easy to untie and adjust. just a thought - you ditch the bulky rope and knots that way. You can use your tether tail as a backup
Wesspur sells prespliced ropes, at 20 bucks per slice. Both my bridge and tether have a 5" on one end and a tight eye on the other. Expensive, but less bulky than knots.I'd like to buy a bridge rope with a spliced eye on both sides. Any idea why neither tethrd or aero hunter sell replacement bridge ropes at all?
Wesspur sells prespliced ropes, at 20 bucks per slice. Both my bridge and tether have a 5" on one end and a tight eye on the other. Expensive, but less bulky than knots.
The tight eye eliminates the need for a stop knot at the tag end of the line. My linesmans belt and my tree tether both have Rope man 1's. The tight eye is just big enough to hook onto the carabiner attaching the rope man to the rope. If for some reason the rope man fails, I should only fall a foot or so before that small amount of slack line is taken under tension. Stop knots have the same function, they're just a little bulky.May i ask the purpose of getting the tight eye spliced-in on what I presume to be is the tag end for both tether and linesman?