Another Oplux/Beal Jammy thread

[dalton916]

Ok, I’m using Oplux/Jammy combo on my tether and its too long 35cm for my liking. I cut the sewn section off and tied a figure 8, but there’s very little tag end. Do I think it will fail? No, I don’t, but I’m also not willing to fully trust it either so I ran my LM as a second tether this morning.

My question is how much tag end do I need to have? Or should I not be going this route period?

 

[weekender21]

That's not enough in my opinion, you're right to question it. I also recommend a double fisherman's if you want to properly connect a prusik loop. I have a 60cm jammy (brand new) I'll gladly sell you for a few dollars over shipping. Or, you can purchase Beal cord by the foot from DanO.

 

[weekender21]

There are many videos on how to tie the double fisherman's, this is a pretty good one.

 

[sojourner]

If you remember, I was the person who emailed with Beal. Their concern was possible slippage. With that, I added an extra turn to the poachers knots for distel hitch. That would be equivalent to a triple fisherman’s if you want to keep it a closed loop. I keep around 4” tail.

Triple fisherman’s with 4” tails on both ends.

Also, I would not be comfortable with a figure eight on a friction hitch. Why are you doing that?

 

[pesqimon]

That's not enough in my opinion, you're right to question it. I also recommend a double fisherman's if you want to properly connect a prusik loop.

X2

I don’t even recognize that as a fig 8. Looks very strange to me.

 

[dalton916]

If you remember, I was the person who emailed with Beal. Their concern was possible slippage. With that, I added an extra turn to the poachers knots for distel hitch. That would be equivalent to a triple fisherman’s if you want to keep it a closed loop. I keep around 4” tail.

Triple fisherman’s with 4” tails on both ends.

Also, I would not be comfortable with a figure eight on a friction hitch. Why are you doing that?

I searched for the post where you contacted them, but couldn’t find it. I did it to shorten the overall length of the prussic so I could lower my tether height for more rifle clearance.

Like I said, I was running a second tether with a preloaded (although I don’t think I added that part) full length jammy as a backup attached to my adjustable bridge (yes, 2 bridges and 2 tethers, lol).

What I’m searching for is the length of jammy I need to lower my tether to a height I like better, what knot is best for this purpose and what length tag end I need with said knot.

Most of that had already been answered so know I’ll tie the knot with 4” of tag end then mark and measure to see how much jammy it’s going to take for that then measure how much is needed for the prussic loops and the gap then buy that amount and tie what I want.

ETA: the knot is a figure 8 follow thru.

 

[weekender21]

The Beal cordelette that DanO sells is the same cord used to make the Jammy. Like many of the newer "tech" materials, it is a little slick. What I found is that is does slip a little while the knot it tightened for the first time. Once it's really snug, it doesn't move. I haven't messed with it too much though, I'm also testing out the Sterling TRC.

Beal cordelette

Beal Kevlar 5.5mm Cordelette

Beal 5.5mm Kevlar cordelette – this is the same cord used to make Beal Jammy sewn prusiks. Polyamide sheath with Aramide core. This accessory cord is perfectly adapted for creating a prusik h…

doublesteps.com

 

[weekender21]

Not a Prusik loop but you can see the fisherman’s loop or poachers knot I used to connect my carabiner. I used a good bit of tag end initially but once it’s really tight I’m personally comfortable with two or three inches.

I taped the rope prior to cutting it, added a drop of gel super glue then finally shrink wrap. A neat knot is a happy knot.

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[Aeds151]

Im curious to hear any differences between the beal cordlette and the trc 6mm. I have beal jammies but they are too long and I want to try a distel hitch so I can remove the RM1 but dont know if a 50cm jammy is long enough. It also looks like 6mm sterling trc is much stronger than beal cordlette.


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[bj139]

Ok, I’m using Oplux/Jammy combo on my tether and its too long 35cm for my liking. I cut the sewn section off and tied a figure 8, but there’s very little tag end. Do I think it will fail? No, I don’t, but I’m also not willing to fully trust it either so I ran my LM as a second tether this morning.

My question is how much tag end do I need to have? Or should I not be going this route period?

If that figure eight is what I think it is DO NOT climb with it until reading this. It can kill you.

One of These Knots Can Kill You

It seems every year we lose climbers to a simple user error that can occur when joining two ropes together for a rappel. Compounding the issue is some media outlets refer to the knots (or bends) in…

northeastalpinestart.com

 

[weekender21]

Im curious to hear any differences between the beal cordlette and the trc 6mm. I have beal jammies but they are too long and I want to try a distel hitch so I can remove the RM1 but dont know if a 50cm jammy is long enough. It also looks like 6mm sterling trc is much stronger than beal cordlette.


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They are different. I’ve only used them on 8mm OpLux but there are noticeable differences in how they perform when tying knots and grabbing the rope. They both work fine but I’m leaning towards the TRC. The outer sheath on the Beal cordelette is a little slicker and the rope tends to flatten when under tension. Just my initial experience and I hope to use both more this season.

DanO offers both by the foot. Relatively inexpensive to test both out.

This is 6mm TRC on 8mm OpLux for comparison.

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[Aeds151]

Ya I was planning on ordering both but DanO is out on trc. Do you have to tie distel hitch to carabiner in that config? I usually like my carabiner flipped the other way for ease of clipping in to bridge.


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[sojourner]

I searched for the post where you contacted them, but couldn’t find it. I did it to shorten the overall length of the prussic so I could lower my tether height for more rifle clearance.

Like I said, I was running a second tether with a preloaded (although I don’t think I added that part) full length jammy as a backup attached to my adjustable bridge (yes, 2 bridges and 2 tethers, lol).

What I’m searching for is the length of jammy I need to lower my tether to a height I like better, what knot is best for this purpose and what length tag end I need with said knot.

Most of that had already been answered so know I’ll tie the knot with 4” of tag end then mark and measure to see how much jammy it’s going to take for that then measure how much is needed for the prussic loops and the gap then buy that amount and tie what I want.

ETA: the knot is a figure 8 follow thru.

Please be careful as you do this. You may want to order more length than you think you need, tie the knots, then cut the ends.

Regardless of whether you make a loop (with double/triple fisherman’s) and tie a klemheist or prusik OR tie a distel / schwabisch with double/triple fisherman’s (poachers) knots,

You will still need to adjust the knots to find what length works best for you.

Please be careful. If you are in eastern PA, we can meet up and I can assist you.

And, to be honest, I am not seeing s figure 8 follow through.

My best wishes for your safety and success.

 

[dalton916]

If that figure eight is what I think it is DO NOT climb with it until reading this. It can kill you.

One of These Knots Can Kill You

It seems every year we lose climbers to a simple user error that can occur when joining two ropes together for a rappel. Compounding the issue is some media outlets refer to the knots (or bends) in…

northeastalpinestart.com

It’s none of those. This is the knot......

 

[Aeds151]

Will 3 feet be enough for a distel?


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[weekender21]

Ya I was planning on ordering both but DanO is out on trc. Do you have to tie distel hitch to carabiner in that config? I usually like my carabiner flipped the other way for ease of clipping in to bridge.


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No, you can flip it either way you want. You'll see in the various pictures I posted I tried different configurations. I much prefer having the carabiner open on the bridge side. Just ensure you don't cross load the carabiner.

 

[weekender21]

Will 3 feet be enough for a distel?


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I used 3.5 feet with 6mm TRC and 3 feet with the 5.5mm Beal cordelette. It just depends on how long you want the “legs” of the distel and how long you want the tag ends of your poachers knots.

*Apparently I’ve reached my monthly picture upload maximum for Tapatalk so you’re gonna have to take my word for it on the TRC.

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[pesqimon]

I used 4ft of TRC with plenty of tail left. Probably could have done with 3.5ft.

 

[Lawelch]

Any idea if @DanO is going to get any trc with sewn loop ends?

 

[weekender21]

Any idea if @DanO is going to get any trc with sewn loop ends?

I think he was looking at options, at least for sewn eyes in the 8mm OpLux.

You could likely get a Sterling dealer to sell you factory (Sterling) sewn loop TRC but it would be a custom order and very expensive. I got a quote for 50’ of Sterling OpLux with a factory sewn eye a few weeks ago....$121.00!


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