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Another Oplux/Beal Jammy thread

Lawelch said:
Any idea if @DanO is going to get any trc with sewn loop ends?
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I'm working with a company to see if they can get a few different types of ropes for me with sewn eyes, including TRC. Their timeline and my timeline aren't matching up, I apologize.
 
I’m using the Oplux/ 5.5 Jammy Combo also. Happy with the bite but I also wish the Jammy prusik ended up a little shorter.

Emrah


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Any idea when trc will be available again?


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bj139 said:
I tie an alpine butterfly in my jammies to make em' shorter. :)
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You know that feeling when ya think to yourself.....damn, I’m dumb??? I just had that feeling

And where’d you get that green Jammy? Purple and me don’t get along.
 
dalton916 said:
You know that feeling when ya think to yourself.....damn, I’m dumb??? I just had that feeling

And where’d you get that green Jammy? Purple and me don’t get along.
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The jammy is grey and I think I bought it from REI. The green rope is Beal Rando 8mm rope which I bought from Moosejaw. I stopped using this rope for a climbing line and tether since the breaking strength is around 1750 lbs and at my weight of 175 lbs it only meets the minimum 10:1 working load. It stretches some when climbing and made me feel a bit uneasy.
 
weekender21 said:
They are different. I’ve only used them on 8mm OpLux but there are noticeable differences in how they perform when tying knots and grabbing the rope. They both work fine but I’m leaning towards the TRC. The outer sheath on the Beal cordelette is a little slicker and the rope tends to flatten when under tension. Just my initial experience and I hope to use both more this season.

DanO offers both by the foot. Relatively inexpensive to test both out.

This is 6mm TRC on 8mm OpLux for comparison.

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What knot is that on the carabiner?


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The knots on the carabiner go by several names. Most guys on the forum call it a poachers knot but it’s more commonly referred to as a double fisherman’s loop in the climbing world.

Easy and effective knot (if tied correctly). Lots of great videos on YouTube.


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so if you take a 50 or 60 cm jammy, and tie a butterfly knot in it. it makes for a perfect tender for a prusik. i used it with a klemheist on my 8mm LB. so it soaks up some of the extra length, and works perfectly. prob wouldn't work for a tether, maybe too much weight..
 
DanO said:
I'm working with a company to see if they can get a few different types of ropes for me with sewn eyes, including TRC. Their timeline and my timeline aren't matching up, I apologize.
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any chance this is still happening? I failed at cutting/ heath shrinking my TRC i recently bought from you, and it's time for a do-over, but I'd much rather just have a sewn eye.
 
thedutchtouch said:
any chance this is still happening? I failed at cutting/ heath shrinking my TRC i recently bought from you, and it's time for a do-over, but I'd much rather just have a sewn eye.
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I heard from @DanO (as an aside I've placed two orders with him recently and both shipped super quickly, if there's anyone that's not a fan of doublesteps.com yet, well, I think you should be. I realize this is not news to most of you .) He is working on getting Teufelberger Ocean 6mm with sewn eyes. No eta yet but should be a few weeks give or take. I know I'll be one of the first in line to buy a few.
 
thedutchtouch said:
any chance this is still happening? I failed at cutting/ heath shrinking my TRC i recently bought from you, and it's time for a do-over, but I'd much rather just have a sewn eye.
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I've been in contact with Bluewater about producing a custom shorter length of their 7mm VT Prusik cord. Just waiting for them to finalize the order.
I'd love to see the same with TRC, but when I asked Sterling direct they said they wouldn't do a custom order and suggested to contact R&W Rope. Be great to see that happen, around 22" would be an awesome length for basket style hitches (distel, schwabish, michoacan etc.)
 
mattsteg said:
Loaded how? it looks like you're just loading the loop portion...which would effectively make it a flat figure 8 bend.
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I can’t even remember enough about this phase to answer your question. First off, I hated the Jammy with a passion because it locked down like a gator and it was purple. The biggest thing was I never felt like what I was doing in the OP was smart. Never was comfortable enough with it to remove the second tether so that method was a no-go.

I switched to a 6mm TRC Distel, but I had slippage when hanging straight down on it while one sticking. This was most likely due to the ends going to the carabiner not being long enough. Now I’m back to a 6mm TRC prussic.
 
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