Anyone have a good system or method to cut factory feathers?

[HuumanCreed]

I want to try experimenting with shorter feathers this off season. Want to be use my current stocks instead of buying more than I need. I have 5ins TrueFlights, was planning to just hold them against a ruler and cutting the tip. Or is it better to cut the back? Is there a more efficient way? Cutting the front would change the streamlineness of the profile, but cutting the back would change it shape right? or is there some simple jig I can use?

 

[BTaylor]

The few times I have done it, I marked the length I wanted, cut the front of the feather and then just reshaped it with a pair of scissors.

 

[HuumanCreed]

The few times I have done it, I marked the length I wanted, cut the front of the feather and then just reshaped it with a pair of scissors.

Have you try cutting from the back to get different vane shape?

 

[BTaylor]

Have you try cutting from the back to get different vane shape?

Yes but you have to account for the lean of the quills depending on the shape you are going for and the how the loss of profile may affect your arrow flight depending on your tune.

 

[raisins]

they used to make feather burners with a wire you could bend in any shape

 

[HuumanCreed]

I thought this would be cool, but it seem more useful if you have raw feathers. Mine are already shaped, I just want to shorten them.

 

[raisins]

if you burn a feather, does the singed part stay discolored? if not, you might have good luck putting a razor blade in a vice grip plier, heating blade and then doing a precise down chop on whatever line you have on the feather or using a template

this is how i reshape waist belts and such that are too long and often use it to cut rope and webbing in general, looks like a factory did it because taking out the slicing motion and allowing a precise push cut gives good results

 

[Allegheny Tom]

3 Rivers sells templates of different lengths and profiles.
If they have a template that is to your liking, the absolute easiest and cheapest way to make a quality cut is to use a fabric cutter (available at Joanne Fabics) and cut on a self sealing mat. I've been using it to convert factory shield profile feathers to Ashby A&A profile. It works great.

 

[raisins]

3 Rivers sells templates of different lengths and profiles.
If they have a template that is to your liking, the absolute easiest and cheapest way to make a quality cut is to use a fabric cutter (available at Joanne Fabics) and cut on a self sealing mat. I've been using it to convert factory shield profile feathers to Ashby A&A profile. It works great.

you mean that ultra sharp pizza cutter dohickey?

 

[Allegheny Tom]

you mean that ultra sharp pizza cutter dohickey?

Yes. I was told to buy the model with the larger cutting wheel so that's the only one that I have tried. I can't vouch for how well the small wheel cutter would work.
There are some YouTube videos demonstrating this method.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

you mean that ultra sharp pizza cutter dohickey?

I think this is the one I have

https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-01-005875-Titanium-Softgrip-Comfort/dp/B0055740UO/ref=sxin_20_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDI1-ac_m_pm_pm_pm&content-id=amzn1.sym.22376944-26a4-4666-8f32-8c6484a27688%3Aamzn1.sym.22376944-26a4-4666-8f32-8c6484a27688&crid=2EOLZRVKG80R3&cv_ct_cx=fiskars+fabric+cutter&keywords=fiskars+fabric+cutter&pd_rd_i=B0055740UO&pd_rd_r=7801815c-0832-4ea5-8619-a18f41c94c77&pd_rd_w=7OZ2p&pd_rd_wg=eGYUV&pf_rd_p=22376944-26a4-4666-8f32-8c6484a27688&pf_rd_r=7M6F384EM81A28CFE90F&qid=1674147206&sprefix=%2Caps%2C232&sr=1-1-333c8e6b-cd15-4545-b06b-af2640a9aa17

 

[HuumanCreed]

ahhh I remember the thread now.

A&A feathers

It's no secret that I am an Ashby cool-aid drinker. I believe in the man. I built Ashby style arrows... 664 taw, 28% foc, single bevel heads. But I could not source the A&A style feathers in the length that I thought that I needed (which was 4"...so I thought). I did find some 2.5" A&A, but...

saddlehunter.com

hmmm...interesting.

 

[Iron_llama]

3 Rivers sells templates of different lengths and profiles.
If they have a template that is to your liking, the absolute easiest and cheapest way to make a quality cut is to use a fabric cutter (available at Joanne Fabics) and cut on a self sealing mat. I've been using it to convert factory shield profile feathers to Ashby A&A profile. It works great.

For a hobbyist, or for cheap experiments with different fletching profiles, this seems like the ticket:

I've never used it (yet) but I don't see a reason why it shouldn't work for low-volume production.

 

[DelaWhere_Arrow]

if you burn a feather, does the singed part stay discolored? if not, you might have good luck putting a razor blade in a vice grip plier, heating blade and then doing a precise down chop on whatever line you have on the feather or using a template

this is how i reshape waist belts and such that are too long and often use it to cut rope and webbing in general, looks like a factory did it because taking out the slicing motion and allowing a precise push cut gives good results

Iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinteresting…

 

[JSEXTON23]

The rotary cutting wheel from a craft store along with a self sealing mat is the way to go. Get some cheap balsam wood and make yourself some templates. I know Tom has done it with success. I make all my fletching this way as well.

 

[BTaylor]

The rotary cutting wheel from a craft store along with a self sealing mat is the way to go. Get some cheap balsam wood and make yourself some templates. I know Tom has done it with success. I make all my fletching this way as well.

A little more detail on the balsam template please. Like where are you getting the wood? craft store?

 

[JSEXTON23]

A little more detail on the balsam template please. Like where are you getting the wood? craft store?

Most craft stores I know have pieces of it. Another great option is a piece of acrylic, which a lot is craft stores carry. I personally would opt for the acrylic or some other rigid 1/8-1/4” plastic.

 

[BTaylor]

Most craft stores I know have pieces of it. Another great option is a piece of acrylic, which a lot is craft stores carry. I personally would opt for the acrylic or some other rigid 1/8-1/4” plastic.

I have always just used store bought or the burner for wild turkey feathers but y'all have me intrigued with the cutter wheel and pad deal. I have a profile I want to try this year so I may go that route rather than ordering new ribbons for the burner even though that would be way cheaper, lol.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

A little more detail on the balsam template please. Like where are you getting the wood? craft store?

I am fortunate to have a machinist neighbor that made lexan copies of factory templates, except he made them in the A&A style.
I would make sure you form a slot for the quill regardless of what material you use.
I think a lexan template is the way to go. It's durable and will never lose its shape from repeated cuts like soft wood. And lexan is clear so you can see the feather so you'll be sure that each hair is aligned in order.

 

[BTaylor]

I am fortunate to have a machinist neighbor that made lexan copies of factory templates, except he made them in the A&A style.
I would make sure you form a slot for the quill regardless of what material you use.
I think a lexan template is the way to go. It's durable and will never lose its shape from repeated cuts like soft wood. And lexan is clear so you can see the feather so you'll be sure that each hair is aligned in order.

What thickness? Something like 1/8th work?