Arrow weight advice.

[BTaylor]

Picked up a new Proven 34 this year.
Set at 64lbs
dl is 31.4 ( I have Inspector Gadget like arms)

I shooting an Altra 300 spine arrow cut to 30”.

I have been shooting both 100 grain heads and 125 grain heads with absolutely no change in POI anywhere from 10 to 45 yards. The two different weights hit together in a good group. I was slightly baffled by this, especially as the yardage increased. But after a month of testing and probably about 800 shots, both weights hit together.
Now, the question is this:
I am going to give a single bevel head a try this year. Probably one on the top of end of the broad head market, so it’s a pretty healthy money investment.
Which head weight would you go with and why? Real world experiences if you have any to offer. The finished arrow weights are 442 and 467. I think the FOC on the lighter is around 10% and 13% for the heavier.

64# at 31.5" with a 467 grain arrow, if it's tuned, you can shoot any head you want too and expect passthru's more times than not. With a small cutting diameter head like most single bevels, it's not going to slow down much unless you hit heavy bone. My compound setup is 68# at 29" and I shoot a 495 grain arrow. On my KS deer last season the 1.75" spitfire max was stuck in the ground 4-5 yards past the deer on a 27-28 yards shot. That deer was 275-280ish live weight.

 

[neonomad]

I’m currently in the low 500s and if time allows this year Id prefer to be where you are, mid 400s (for whitetail). I did not run your spine calcs here but I’d prolly go with whatever appears to be more optimized to the spine; am I correct that you’re a bit stiff on spine at 300, if that’s true I’d lean toward 125, but would not worry much about it either way.

 

[therooster240g]

Either head weight would work for your set up. I personally would lean towards a 125 for the reason of it possibly being more durable. A solid 100 grain would be a close second.


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[woodsdog2]

Several years ago, I shot a big Ohio buck at about 12 yards through both shoulders on purpose with a 650 grain 28%+/- FOC arrow with a Grizzly single bevel broadhead. Upon receipt of the arrow, the buck went to take another step and neither of his front legs worked any longer. He face planted and pushed himself along on his nose with his hind legs off into a creek where he expired shortly afterward. The arrow went through the onside shoulder and completely severed the offside humorous bone. This was with a 60 pound draw weight Mathews Helim compound.

Season before last, I shot a buck slight quartering too through the shoulder and out behind the shoulder at about 17 yards with a lighter arrow setup weighing 585 grains and about 22% FOC. This was another grizzly single bevel. It went through the scapula on the onside and ribs on exit. The buck trotted 25 yards, stood there nervously, then tipped over dead.

I mostly shoot this 585 grain setup since it tunes to both of my compounds, one 44 and one 60 pounds. It is plenty for our smaller bodied Southern deer. If I go up North again, I will likely pack a little more heat, lol.

Nice bucks Bro!!!

 

[NMSbowhunter]

Nice bucks Bro!!!

Thanks!

 

[arrowchukker]

64# at 31.5" with a 467 grain arrow, if it's tuned, you can shoot any head you want too and expect passthru's more times than not. With a small cutting diameter head like most single bevels, it's not going to slow down much unless you hit heavy bone. My compound setup is 68# at 29" and I shoot a 495 grain arrow. On my KS deer last season the 1.75" spitfire max was stuck in the ground 4-5 yards past the deer on a 27-28 yards shot. That deer was 275-280ish live weight.

You are correct. I usually pass through any deer, no matter which heads I have used. Even mechanical. I do occasionally shoot a Sevr, also. I am just going to single bevel to try and give the best possible result if I were to hit bone. I found myself recently trying to “stay off the shoulder” a bit, when making shots. I want to minimize that, and tuck my shots closer in on vitals.

 

[BowhunterXC]

@NMSbowhunter
I decided to take somewhat of a shortcut for sharpening the Grizzly and Steel Force single bevels. I use a belt sander with 800 grit to get a burr on the edge, then I switch to 1500 grit to polish it up a little and finish it with a leather strop. It only takes about 6 or 7 minutes to sharpen both sided of a single bevel, to a mirror finish. A very light touch is all it takes on the belt sander.

 

[NMSbowhunter]

@NMSbowhunter
I decided to take somewhat of a shortcut for sharpening the Grizzly and Steel Force single bevels. I use a belt sander with 800 grit to get a burr on the edge, then I switch to 1500 grit to polish it up a little and finish it with a leather strop. It only takes about 6 or 7 minutes to sharpen both sided of a single bevel, to a mirror finish. A very light touch is all it takes on the belt sander.
View attachment 116913

Are you using a jig to hold the broadheads?

 

[BowhunterXC]

Are you using a jig to hold the broadheads?

Yes! The Stay Sharp model for the fixed blade broadheads.
I'd like to replace the plastic rollers with metal ones, because the sanding belt is hard on the plastic's durability.