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Back in the game

Sunshine

Active Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2023
Messages
179
Location
Central Florida
I haven't seriously bow hunted since I was a kid, which is about 25 years. A lot has changed since then.

I picked up a Bear Legit whole kit and kaboodle from Huntersfriend.com in 2022 and honestly have been pretty happy with it. It came out of the box shooting great and I successfully stuck a hog with it last weekend.

However, It's due for a new string and while I'm doing that, I'd like to make some upgrades all at once. I went pretty budget with it when I bought it as I wasn't sure how much use I'd get out of it, but I have really enjoyed it this season and coupling it with saddle hunting makes it all that much better.

So, to the point, I'd like to make some upgrades in the sight, rest, slides, stabilizer and release area.

Current equipment is (again, went budget when I bought it):

-TruGlo Storm G2 3-PIN Sight (only using 2 pins, 20 and 30 yards currently, OK I guess?)

-three point containment rest (like a 3 sided whisker biscuit) - don't have any particular feelings about it

-stock slides - showing wear on cables

-Cheap stabilizer

-TruGlo SpeedShot XS release- not a fan. I also found myself very annoyed with the wrist strap release. I do not remember hating it as much as I do, but I found myself banging it and hanging it up on everything.

-arrows are Easton 6.5 340s, no real complaints, they are due for refletching, but have been falling down the high FOC rabbit hole lately.

I do not see myself doing 3d or competition shooting beyond practicing for hunting season. I shoot clays with my 1187 like the uncultured heathen that I am. So, hunting focused build.

I tend to be pretty rough on stuff and tend to end up crawling through pretty thick crap more often than I'd like. What are some best bang for the buck, hardy, tried and true options out there?
 
I tend to fall in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset. I like to find a simple, robust system that works and stick with it. Now, the parts you mentioned that show wear I would have that addressed. Are there any local bow shops in the area that have good technicians? If so, I'd swing by there and have them take a look at it from a functional point of view.

Aside from that, I can comment on the Easton 6.5mm 340's. That is what I currently shoot. I cut them to 28.25 carbon to carbon and use the stock insert. I use a 265 grain head composed of a 155 grain Grizzly single bevel broadhead glued on a 100 grain steel insert. This brings my arrow weight to 585 grains total and puts FOC in the 25 to 26%. I have built arrows as heavy as 800 grains, but I settled on this setup mainly due to having two compound bows, one set at 60 pounds and the other set at 44 pounds. I have both bows tuned perfectly to this arrow setup and I have no problem killing deer with shot angles I would not take with a 400 grain arrow and a mechanical head. The Easton 340 at 585 grains is a simple and straightforward set up for me, it's relatively inexpensive, relatively easy to tune to the bow, and very effective.
 
I tend to fall in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mindset. I like to find a simple, robust system that works and stick with it. Now, the parts you mentioned that show wear I would have that addressed. Are there any local bow shops in the area that have good technicians? If so, I'd swing by there and have them take a look at it from a functional point of view.

Aside from that, I can comment on the Easton 6.5mm 340's. That is what I currently shoot. I cut them to 28.25 carbon to carbon and use the stock insert. I use a 265 grain head composed of a 155 grain Grizzly single bevel broadhead glued on a 100 grain steel insert. This brings my arrow weight to 585 grains total and puts FOC in the 25 to 26%. I have built arrows as heavy as 800 grains, but I settled on this setup mainly due to having two compound bows, one set at 60 pounds and the other set at 44 pounds. I have both bows tuned perfectly to this arrow setup and I have no problem killing deer with shot angles I would not take with a 400 grain arrow and a mechanical head. The Easton 340 at 585 grains is a simple and straightforward set up for me, it's relatively inexpensive, relatively easy to tune to the bow, and very effective.
I do have a good shop local, actually had it in there Saturday for about 10 minutes, cause I somehow pulled my peep sight out climbing through nasty stuff. He commented that she definitely needed some attention, I was trying to rush back to the woods and knew I'd be bringing it in for new strings soon anyways, so didn't get details.

While my current string setup isn't super worn, my other motivation for having it restrung is to keep these as a backup in case something happens and I don't have the time to get a new set of strings in. And yes, I have considered buying a second bow lol
 
Guys still shoot deer with old recurves. Dont go out and buy Stuff for your bow just because its more expensive and advertised more. Use what works for you. Get new cables and strings put on. New release if you dont like the old one. I use almost the same accessories as you except for the bow. Mine is a lot older. But I bought my son a legit, seems like a good bow.
 
Didn't I read that u are coming to our saddle meet up at lake George this weekend? U can look at my bow and shoot it if u want. Its about as simple and robust as u can get I think. U can shoot it with ur arrow if our draw is close or u can shoot my heavy arrow setup.
 
I shoot without a peep. I found it harder to look through and find where I wanted to aim in the thick stuff. Shooting a target in the yard was fine. Havent used one in atleast 10 years
 
Didn't I read that u are coming to our saddle meet up at lake George this weekend? U can look at my bow and shoot it if u want. Its about as simple and robust as u can get I think. U can shoot it with ur arrow if our draw is close or u can shoot my heavy arrow setup.
Yes, I'm doing my best to be there. Had some family stuff come up but still think I can make it for Saturday. I shoot 29"
 
I do have a good shop local, actually had it in there Saturday for about 10 minutes, cause I somehow pulled my peep sight out climbing through nasty stuff. He commented that she definitely needed some attention, I was trying to rush back to the woods and knew I'd be bringing it in for new strings soon anyways, so didn't get details.

While my current string setup isn't super worn, my other motivation for having it restrung is to keep these as a backup in case something happens and I don't have the time to get a new set of strings in. And yes, I have considered buying a second bow lol
This is the best time of year to have any work done. Most folks aren't thinking about their bow, the shops are not swamped with work, and you have plenty of time to work out any kinks and get familiar with the set up for the fall.
 
Guys still shoot deer with old recurves. Dont go out and buy Stuff for your bow just because its more expensive and advertised more. Use what works for you. Get new cables and strings put on. New release if you dont like the old one. I use almost the same accessories as you except for the bow. Mine is a lot older. But I bought my son a legit, seems like a good bow.

I'm certainly not just trying to blow money without noticeable improvement or effect for hunting purposes. The amount of products and information out there is sort of overwhelming, so I figured this forum would be a good way to get some insight into what works well for hunting purposes over looking good on insta. I am not dead set on changing anything but my strings, release and the cable slide.
 
This is the best time of year to have any work done. Most folks aren't thinking about their bow, the shops are not swamped with work, and you have plenty of time to work out any kinks and get familiar with the set up for the fall.
Yup, that is my thought process and goal in getting the ball rolling in the next month or so.
 
Re string it. Ditch the peep and add a nose button. If your max shot is 30 you'll be fine. Less to fail. If your other stuff works, roll with it.
 
Alright, looking into the peepless thing. I had never considered it, like the idea of it. If I had had a target in the back of my truck on Saturday, I would've slung some arrows without one to try it, before rushing to the shop and back to the woods.
 
Your sight seems like a pretty solid lower end model, adding things like micro adjust and third axis leveling aren't really necessary at 30 yards and in. I use a IQ Pro 3 pin that I picked up for half price on ebay. Don't hardly use the slider, but the retina lock and nose button stretch my last light shooting time over a peep sight and are just as consistent.

a brush rest is durable and reliable, a very solid choice

a roller cable guide is $30, may be worth installing when putting the new strings on, never had enough wear from my slide to consider it before personally

If your bow is balancing well then adding a fancy stabilizer is wasted money. If you do need to improve the balance, then this is what I run to help balance out shooting my bow with the quiver attached. https://www.amazon.com/Trophy-Ridge-Static-Side-Stabilizer/dp/B01M59SRV5?th=1 Really good value IMO and allows a lot of adjustment while staying compact and tight to the bow.

No experience with anything other than a wrist strap release.

Overpriced arrows are silly unless you are target shooting or chasing the EFOC game. since you mentioned FOC, what heads are you shooting and how do you sharpen them? Before buying new shafts I would experiment with a bare shaft and some different point weights to see how much weight you can add to the arrows you already have, then spend the money you would spend on arrows on quality heads.
 
Your sight seems like a pretty solid lower end model, adding things like micro adjust and third axis leveling aren't really necessary at 30 yards and in. I use a IQ Pro 3 pin that I picked up for half price on ebay. Don't hardly use the slider, but the retina lock and nose button stretch my last light shooting time over a peep sight and are just as consistent.

a brush rest is durable and reliable, a very solid choice

a roller cable guide is $30, may be worth installing when putting the new strings on, never had enough wear from my slide to consider it before personally

If your bow is balancing well then adding a fancy stabilizer is wasted money. If you do need to improve the balance, then this is what I run to help balance out shooting my bow with the quiver attached. https://www.amazon.com/Trophy-Ridge-Static-Side-Stabilizer/dp/B01M59SRV5?th=1 Really good value IMO and allows a lot of adjustment while staying compact and tight to the bow.

No experience with anything other than a wrist strap release.

Overpriced arrows are silly unless you are target shooting or chasing the EFOC game. since you mentioned FOC, what heads are you shooting and how do you sharpen them? Before buying new shafts I would experiment with a bare shaft and some different point weights to see how much weight you can add to the arrows you already have, then spend the money you would spend on arrows on quality heads.

I don't know about the stabilizer, it may just be that I haven't shot enough, but I do feel I struggle harder than I should to keep the pins on target and like I'm "fighting" it a bit.

I don't necessarily have any problem with the arrows I have and would be ok with just picking up another half dozen of them really. The 5 I have need refletched which is no big deal, but for heads I have QAD Exodus 100 gr, total arrow weight with heads is 400 grains. They are new, so I didn't sharpen them this season, I was very impressed with the performance on the 60-70lb hog I shot, and while I'm not opposed to changing to something else, I don't have concerns with what I saw. Broadside, 32 yards, hit forward of intended aiming point, went straight through the front of both scapulas and through the spine, anchoring the pig, pulled it out of the dirt looking new and ready to shoot again. I am interested in hearing what sharpening systems people use.
 

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+1 for the IQ sight. I like me a single pin if you’re not shooting out past 30, I like an uncluttered sight picture. If’n you want a bit more G5 makes a dual pin that has one fixed and one slider.
For a stab anything that doesn’t stick out beyond the riser isn’t doing much unless you just want to calm the jitters down a scootch then make sure you got some weight on it. I’m partial to HHA stabs as you can add and subtract weights as needed, their stuff is made in USA and their big supporters go vets and the armed forces. Stick you a qd adapter on the end so you can quickly remove it to stick your bow in a case. You are using a case, right? I like 10-12” stabs with weight, long enough to do the job but not so long it don’t get hung on stuff. Since you crawl around and beat on stuff I’d stick with your current rest or go wb, can’t beat a capture rest for simplicity and durability.
For a release I’ve always shot Hot Shot or Tru Ball. Tru has a swivel head which is nice, Hot Shot is made right here in VA, their customer service is top notch and manned by actual humans.
For strings I’d go Johns Custom Archery or Catfish.
If you’re thinking about being a heavy arrow convert hit up Ranch Fairy YT channel, Black Eagles or Sirius make an excellent heavy shaft, I’ve shot both for a while outta my compound and xbow with no issues.
 
+1 for the IQ sight. I like me a single pin if you’re not shooting out past 30, I like an uncluttered sight picture. If’n you want a bit more G5 makes a dual pin that has one fixed and one slider.
For a stab anything that doesn’t stick out beyond the riser isn’t doing much unless you just want to calm the jitters down a scootch then make sure you got some weight on it. I’m partial to HHA stabs as you can add and subtract weights as needed, their stuff is made in USA and their big supporters go vets and the armed forces. Stick you a qd adapter on the end so you can quickly remove it to stick your bow in a case. You are using a case, right? I like 10-12” stabs with weight, long enough to do the job but not so long it don’t get hung on stuff. Since you crawl around and beat on stuff I’d stick with your current rest or go wb, can’t beat a capture rest for simplicity and durability.
For a release I’ve always shot Hot Shot or Tru Ball. Tru has a swivel head which is nice, Hot Shot is made right here in VA, their customer service is top notch and manned by actual humans.
For strings I’d go Johns Custom Archery or Catfish.
If you’re thinking about being a heavy arrow convert hit up Ranch Fairy YT channel, Black Eagles or Sirius make an excellent heavy shaft, I’ve shot both for a while outta my compound and xbow with no issues.

Thanks!

Yes, I do use a case, I bought one of those headrest bow holders too for multi day/in and out of the truck hunts. Pretty handy.

I think my local shop uses GAS strings, which sounds like are at least acceptable by most accounts.
 
I don't know about the stabilizer, it may just be that I haven't shot enough, but I do feel I struggle harder than I should to keep the pins on target and like I'm "fighting" it a bit.

I don't necessarily have any problem with the arrows I have and would be ok with just picking up another half dozen of them really. The 5 I have need refletched which is no big deal, but for heads I have QAD Exodus 100 gr, total arrow weight with heads is 400 grains. They are new, so I didn't sharpen them this season, I was very impressed with the performance on the 60-70lb hog I shot, and while I'm not opposed to changing to something else, I don't have concerns with what I saw. Broadside, 32 yards, hit forward of intended aiming point, went straight through the front of both scapulas and through the spine, anchoring the pig, pulled it out of the dirt looking new and ready to shoot again. I am interested in hearing what sharpening systems people use.
If your fighting, some more reps or some adjustments to your set up can help. There is that magic triangle thing that locks your body better to hold a bow they say. I started to work on it some last summer and it helps. Adjusted my anchor slightly, shortened my draw slightly to fit it and it helps to stabilize more. I kept only half listening to guys talk about form. But they are right. The little bit I spent messing with it had great results. I was just to close to season to change to much. I'm gonna revisit some Tom Clum stuff I was watching and try to improve some more again.
I might ditch my drop away for a Whisker this spring and go back to a fixed sight just to keep it simple like you said.
 
I don't know about the stabilizer, it may just be that I haven't shot enough, but I do feel I struggle harder than I should to keep the pins on target and like I'm "fighting" it a bit.

I don't necessarily have any problem with the arrows I have and would be ok with just picking up another half dozen of them really. The 5 I have need refletched which is no big deal, but for heads I have QAD Exodus 100 gr, total arrow weight with heads is 400 grains. They are new, so I didn't sharpen them this season, I was very impressed with the performance on the 60-70lb hog I shot, and while I'm not opposed to changing to something else, I don't have concerns with what I saw. Broadside, 32 yards, hit forward of intended aiming point, went straight through the front of both scapulas and through the spine, anchoring the pig, pulled it out of the dirt looking new and ready to shoot again. I am interested in hearing what sharpening systems people use.
Sounds like your draw is not set right or your cam timing may be off.
 
If your fighting, some more reps or some adjustments to your set up can help. There is that magic triangle thing that locks your body better to hold a bow they say. I started to work on it some last summer and it helps. Adjusted my anchor slightly, shortened my draw slightly to fit it and it helps to stabilize more. I kept only half listening to guys talk about form. But they are right. The little bit I spent messing with it had great results. I was just to close to season to change to much. I'm gonna revisit some Tom Clum stuff I was watching and try to improve some more again.
I might ditch my drop away for a Whisker this spring and go back to a fixed sight just to keep it simple like you said.

Ditto to this.

I'll also mentioned let-off. If my letoff is set too low, say 90-95%, I'm floating all over the place and also inducing torque trying to keep the bow stready. I keep my letoff around 80-85% and it's much easier to "lock in" so to speak. Full draw feels much more secure. You may find it more difficult to hold on target for long periods, but this is where shooting, practice, reps, conditioning come in.

BT
 
New string and a few lessons from a good pro. Ask about the float you are seeing. That will be the best money you spend. Then decide if the upgrades to rest and sight are needed.
Quick additions. Maybe try a new release. A quality trigger is extremely helpful. The best part of archery is we get to try most this stuff out before buying. But I go back to the lessons.
 
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