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Better Friction Hitch?

There are a lot of better hitches that release easier where a smaller diameter hitch cord could be used. The 10mm is often used by tree workers, but doesn’t grab as well as a smaller diameter and needs more wraps making it harder to slide with the added friction.

I used 8mmm HRC for about a year but it would get tighter than I like for descending. I wouldn't say it was bound up like a fully weighted prusik, but you'd have to work a bit to release it. Too bad because I really like the feel of the HRC, I experimented with other cords and diameters too - beeline 8 & 10, ocean 8mm, and bailout to name a few. There were more that I forgot. I also experimented with the number of wraps and hitches. I finally landed on the micho with 10mm ocean for climbing. Everything else either had more sit back, more slipping, or more binding. At least for me and my set up.

The lanyard thing is new to me this year and the idea about using it as a tether came at the end of the season, so I haven't put much time into flushing it out. I guess with all the hitch options and variables of hitch cord diameter, wraps, and climber weight, experimentation is the only way to really dial in what will work best. I'll mess around, but if you have any specific recommendation about which hitch and cord would work best for the purpose of going back and forth between drt and tether mode, that's what I was hoping to find here.
 
I used 8mmm HRC for about a year but it would get tighter than I like for descending. I wouldn't say it was bound up like a fully weighted prusik, but you'd have to work a bit to release it. Too bad because I really like the feel of the HRC, I experimented with other cords and diameters too - beeline 8 & 10, ocean 8mm, and bailout to name a few. There were more that I forgot. I also experimented with the number of wraps and hitches. I finally landed on the micho with 10mm ocean for climbing. Everything else either had more sit back, more slipping, or more binding. At least for me and my set up.

The lanyard thing is new to me this year and the idea about using it as a tether came at the end of the season, so I haven't put much time into flushing it out. I guess with all the hitch options and variables of hitch cord diameter, wraps, and climber weight, experimentation is the only way to really dial in what will work best. I'll mess around, but if you have any specific recommendation about which hitch and cord would work best for the purpose of going back and forth between drt and tether mode, that's what I was hoping to find here.
Working on it...
 
View attachment 59577
The Sticht Hitch when dialed in doesn’t bind, to the point you can descend under control without binding. Basic configuration on the left, bow shackle can replace the ring, and adding a metal band in the back makes tending better.
This is what I use. Mine has a smaller diameter ring than the ring on the left pic. No shackle. I also have a piece of tubing like the right pic. I cut it from 3/4" nipple I believe. Anyway it works. It slides perfect and grabs every time. Brocky knows his stuff.
 
A cheap and quiet option. A descending device takes the wear and heat off of the cord when doing long, or fast descents.
 
Hey guys. I stumbled on this thread looking for something else... (a list of all the friction hitches that take load in BOTH directions like the Prusik, and so if you have any, pls let me know) .... but given the discussion, you all should take a look at my newest knot. I have submitted a total of four knots to the International Guild of Knot Tyers and all of them seem to be unique. But this one is my only friction hitch and is a gem: the JRB Ascender Hitch. This is the introductory video. There is a PLAYLIST with 3 videos on the hitch and I will be adding some more. The last video details how to tie the 423 and 523, my favorite variants.

Be aware that I am primarily a rope climber for purposes of hunting, not arborist work and so just be aware that there are differences. For example, in my systems I do not tie any knots at the climb site. I climb in darkness and quietly, no metal on metal, etc. My systems do not require any retying of hitches between climbs. I retie them only when I want to inspect and redistribute wear. I am not telling you that my friction hitch is better than your mechanical devices. But it is likely better than your friction hitch.

 
A cheap and quiet option. A descending device takes the wear and heat off of the cord when doing long, or fast descents.
Hey man.... if you have a list for me: Friction hitches like the Prusik that take loads in both directions... well... I suppose I will owe you a beer.... I do need one, and i DETEST the Prusik, and so I did devise one... and its pretty cool, but I need some help figuring out if its already in existence.
 
Hey guys. I stumbled on this thread looking for something else... (a list of all the friction hitches that take load in BOTH directions like the Prusik, and so if you have any, pls let me know) .... but given the discussion, you all should take a look at my newest knot. I have submitted a total of four knots to the International Guild of Knot Tyers and all of them seem to be unique. But this one is my only friction hitch and is a gem: the JRB Ascender Hitch. This is the introductory video. There is a PLAYLIST with 3 videos on the hitch and I will be adding some more. The last video details how to tie the 423 and 523, my favorite variants.

Be aware that I am primarily a rope climber for purposes of hunting, not arborist work and so just be aware that there are differences. For example, in my systems I do not tie any knots at the climb site. I climb in darkness and quietly, no metal on metal, etc. My systems do not require any retying of hitches between climbs. I retie them only when I want to inspect and redistribute wear. I am not telling you that my friction hitch is better than your mechanical devices. But it is likely better than your friction hitch.

I ran across your new hitches the other day. Pretty ingenious! Now you have me re-evaluating my climbing and descent methods for next season.
 
View attachment 60069
Don’t have any that goes both ways except this one and a true Autobloc hitch. I came up with the above awhile back, but forgot about it, not sure how it functions. Have been messing around trying to come up with more loop friction hitches.
The bottom one with the black chord looks cool.... does it work? By the way, those stoppers are just a couple of back to back overhands?
 
I’m not sure how well it works, didn’t investigate too much as I had no need for a bidirectional hitch. The black is the same hitch with two overhands back to back. The stopper on a regular hitch helps with tending, but only seems to help with the sliding the whole hitch by hand.
This is another hitch, published even before the Prusik, the Gerard, tied opposite of the Prusik.
6A67723D-C227-409C-BB89-672261AFA1F1.jpeg
 
I’m not sure how well it works, didn’t investigate too much as I had no need for a bidirectional hitch. The black is the same hitch with two overhands back to back. The stopper on a regular hitch helps with tending, but only seems to help with the sliding the whole hitch by hand.
This is another hitch, published even before the Prusik, the Gerard, tied opposite of the Prusik.
View attachment 60086
@Brocky, I think it was you who sent me this a few years ago... on Treebuzz... .... cuz NOBODY seems to have a MASTER LIST of friction hitches... and if ya Google Gerard Friction Hitch... well, I didn't find anything. And so where is is published?

In other news, i have designed a handful of em, that hold in BOTH directions. None are tested yet. When i pick a favorite, I will show ya.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
I’m not sure how well it works, didn’t investigate too much as I had no need for a bidirectional hitch. The black is the same hitch with two overhands back to back. The stopper on a regular hitch helps with tending, but only seems to help with the sliding the whole hitch by hand.
This is another hitch, published even before the Prusik, the Gerard, tied opposite of the Prusik.
View attachment 60086
@Brocky ... this is the pic...
661eaa96e7be3e7313e6f840a3f23176.jpg


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
I’m not sure how well it works, didn’t investigate too much as I had no need for a bidirectional hitch. The black is the same hitch with two overhands back to back. The stopper on a regular hitch helps with tending, but only seems to help with the sliding the whole hitch by hand.
This is another hitch, published even before the Prusik, the Gerard, tied opposite of the Prusik.
View attachment 60086
I see now, so with that in mind it probably binds similarly to a prusik, so "no thanks". What I liked about it is it looked compact.

I messed around with the sticht a bit but I think I am still liking the distel better. I couldn;t get the sticht to tend well. Maybe if I elongated it a bit, but like I said I like a compact hitch because I hang my tether lowish so the distel is working pretty well in that regard.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 
I see now, so with that in mind it probably binds similarly to a prusik, so "no thanks". What I liked about it is it looked compact.

I messed around with the sticht a bit but I think I am still liking the distel better. I couldn;t get the sticht to tend well. Maybe if I elongated it a bit, but like I said I like a compact hitch because I hang my tether lowish so the distel is working pretty well in that regard.

Thanks for the suggestions!
I have devised 2 friction hitches... one is the JRB Ascender, link above... the other isn't actually a new knot, it is merely the concatenation of two identical friction hitches into an assembly. I did it with Michoacán but it also works with the distel. The advantage of doing it this way is that when it is holding our full body weight, each hitch is only holding half. And they're just so easy to move.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
I have devised 2 friction hitches... one is the JRB Ascender, link above... the other isn't actually a new knot, it is merely the concatenation of two identical friction hitches into an assembly. I did it with Michoacán but it also works with the distel. The advantage of doing it this way is that when it is holding our full body weight, each hitch is only holding half. And they're just so easy to move.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I know. I hunted all year on canyon c-iv and sterling trc as my hitch in michoacan and JRB ascender versions and never once had a hard time breaking it under load or not having it hold even in snowy/ -2F conditions. I really don't know why ppl dont give it a little more time and practice to stay away from metal mechanicals. But to each their own.
 
I see now, so with that in mind it probably binds similarly to a prusik, so "no thanks". What I liked about it is it looked compact.

I messed around with the sticht a bit but I think I am still liking the distel better. I couldn;t get the sticht to tend well. Maybe if I elongated it a bit, but like I said I like a compact hitch because I hang my tether lowish so the distel is working pretty well in that regard.

Thanks for the suggestions!
The tending on the Sticht can be improved by a larger space between the wraps and ring, a 1/4- 1/2 inch more if it already tends. Sometimes just pulling down on the ring will take slack out of twist to lengthen. Usually don’t have to make it longer to function easier.

Some more hitches, top one is a combo of Prusik and Gerard, really can’t judge them until they are tried.
85210707-3C9F-4876-BB24-C552B2352137.jpeg
 
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