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BH Tuning Help

woodsdog2 said:
Yeah that .250 sounds a little stiff especially for a 28" CtoC shaft but also, did you nock tune each bare shaft to be sure you are shooting off the stiffest side of the arrow. Otherwise you will have inconsistent flight with bare shafts. Some guys are switching the heavy arrow process now and first paper tuning with a fully fletched arrow to get close and then making fine adjustments via bare shaft through paper; however, you must be certain that your bare shafts have been "nock tuned before shooting them through paper.

Also, spin test your broadheads on your shaft to make sure they don't wobble on the shaft. You've got good broadheads so the ferrules on them should be straight but you never know. Like @Weldabeast mentioned too, if you didn't cut your own arrows or didn't run them through an arrow squaring tool, they could be cut slightly off square which will be exaggerated with broadheads. In other words, your fletching will stear the field tips nicely but enter a bigger broadhead up front and if they are a little crookedly cut, the broadhead flight will magnify that. Also, if you do your own arrow builds you want to take material off both ends of the shaft rather than just from one end, especially if you're shooting more economical arrow shafts. Also, maybe fletch with either more aggressive helical if you can to stabilize them a little better if you've tried everything else mentioned above. Just some other considerations.
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Any DIY or easy way to check spin?
 
bigcat93 said:
Any DIY or easy way to check spin?
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Point down on a hard surface, spin the shaft. You'll see/feel a visible wobble. If unsure, roll on the side of an elevated edge like a book or something. Worst case get an actual spinner. It's an important tool to have if you're shooting fixed heads or building arrows.

EDIT: did you bareshaft/paper tune at the same distance? What was that distance? Does the bullet hole stay the same at different distances?
 
heretic said:
Point down on a hard surface, spin the shaft. You'll see/feel a visible wobble. If unsure, roll on the side of an elevated edge like a book or something. Worst case get an actual spinner. It's an important tool to have if you're shooting fixed heads or building arrows.

EDIT: did you bareshaft/paper tune at the same distance? What was that distance? Does the bullet hole stay the same at different distances?
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I did 7 yards, then checked at 10 and they stayed the same.
 
Do all of your initial tuning at 7 yards. Bareshaft or otherwise.
 
heretic said:
Point down on a hard surface, spin the shaft. You'll see/feel a visible wobble. If unsure, roll on the side of an elevated edge like a book or something. Worst case get an actual spinner. It's an important tool to have if you're shooting fixed heads or building arrows.

EDIT: did you bareshaft/paper tune at the same distance? What was that distance? Does the bullet hole stay the same at different distances?
Click to expand...
If you spin the arrow with the broadhead tip down on a flat hard surface like a table or counter, you will see and feel a slight wobble. Especially if you spin one that is straight and then spin one that isn't. Its like the shaft is bumping up and down a little bit.
 
According to the serius spine chart you are right where you need to be with the spine. 300 total up front calls for 250 spine below 315fps and 200 spine 315+fps
 
Carbon to carbon length of arrow is a huge factor. In my experience tuning these things, a 28” 250 ctc is way overspined even for a 70# bow. It’s not dangerous like an underspined arrow could be, but your not optimizing your arrow.
 
As a data point that we get a little too overboard with spine selection:

I shoot a 30" draw, 76lbs, 28.75" carbon to carbon, 225 grains up front, 510ish grain total arrow weight. I get bullets at 8 yards bareshaft and with fletch. I didn't get there "easily", in that it took very small adjustments, and several days of work (a total of a few hours). Bare shafts hit with fletched out to 40 before I get sweaty and shaky. Small diameter coc broadheads hit with field points out to 80 yards.

300 spine.



I shot 250's. I could not get this level of consistent results with the exact same setup, going up or down a couple pounds in draw weight. According to charts I should definitely be in a 250 spine.

I'm willing to bet you can easily get a 300 spine to tune with those specs. Maybe even a 340. Something else is up.
 
kyler1945 said:
As a data point that we get a little too overboard with spine selection:

I shoot a 30" draw, 76lbs, 28.75" carbon to carbon, 225 grains up front, 510ish grain total arrow weight. I get bullets at 8 yards bareshaft and with fletch. I didn't get there "easily", in that it took very small adjustments, and several days of work (a total of a few hours). Bare shafts hit with fletched out to 40 before I get sweaty and shaky. Small diameter coc broadheads hit with field points out to 80 yards.

300 spine.



I shot 250's. I could not get this level of consistent results with the exact same setup, going up or down a couple pounds in draw weight. According to charts I should definitely be in a 250 spine.

I'm willing to bet you can easily get a 300 spine to tune with those specs. Maybe even a 340. Something else is up.
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Yeah definitely going to try and start with walk back tuning, I had bullets with bareshaft and fletched FP at 7 and 10 yards.

this was my first time fletching arrows, have a 4-vane 90-90 configuration with q2i x-ii but I don’t think I messed those up. They all are pretty consistent
 
Don’t forget insert length. A 50 grain brass (reference only) is half the length of a 100. That effects spine. As little as 1/4” in arrow length can make a significant difference with carbon

Length of point/broadhead puts weight farther out front,,,,or not. All affects spine.
 
kbetts said:
Don’t forget insert length. A 50 grain brass (reference only) is half the length of a 100. That effects spine. As little as 1/4” in arrow length can make a significant difference with carbon

Length of point/broadhead puts weight farther out front,,,,or not. All affects spine.
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Yeah these are all things I’m a newbie too haha, that’s why this place rocks - I’ll keep that in mind
I have the 100gr insert from ethics right now which is longer than the brass one (I believe)

getting back out to shoot in a bit and Later today. Will report back.
 
225 up front on a 300 spine is money for me and seems like it is for most people...I would say some minor nuance is the issue? But I am new to arrow building and “hyper” tuning
 
So after a quick walk-back tune and double check on things on my bow:

- slight adjustment to 2nd axis, I put cams into a door in and checked bubble.
- double checked sight at 20
- walk back tuning was actually really good out to 40 - BUT my drop off with this heavier arrow was noticeable, almost 2 feet+ from 20-40

- field points and broadheads grouping together way better now after I adjusted my grip on riser, that video posted above was money

I did lose an arrow in the dirt I have to find after work today.

will bumping up draw weight a half turn or two throw off my grouping you guys think?
 
bigcat93 said:
So after a quick walk-back tune and double check on things on my bow:

- slight adjustment to 2nd axis, I put cams into a door in and checked bubble.
- double checked sight at 20
- walk back tuning was actually really good out to 40 - BUT my drop off with this heavier arrow was noticeable, almost 2 feet+ from 20-40

- field points and broadheads grouping together way better now after I adjusted my grip on riser, that video posted above was money

I did lose an arrow in the dirt I have to find after work today.

will bumping up draw weight a half turn or two throw off my grouping you guys think?
Click to expand...

If you change your draw weight, and your groups open up, you've "untuned" the setup. I'm sure a small part of it will be you not being as steady as you were at the lower weight, but that should be small and go away. So, yeh, it could. But you'll just have to go through the process again. Will likely be much faster at this point, assuming you've got most of the adjustments "centered" if you will.
 
kyler1945 said:
If you change your draw weight, and your groups open up, you've "untuned" the setup. I'm sure a small part of it will be you not being as steady as you were at the lower weight, but that should be small and go away. So, yeh, it could. But you'll just have to go through the process again. Will likely be much faster at this point, assuming you've got most of the adjustments "centered" if you will.
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I just don’t want to go through the bareshaft tuning and everything like that lol
 
bigcat93 said:
I just don’t want to go through the bareshaft tuning and everything like that lol
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You should assume you will have to repeat the process if you change anything about the setup. Then be happy if you're wrong. But it's not likely you will be.
 
In my opinion, bareshaft tuning is to get you in the ballpark before shooting broadheads. You will almost always need to make minor adjustments once you move to broadheads to get consistent groups between field points and broadheads. Your form and grip will also have effects on these minor adjustments.
What yardage are you shooting the broadheads? How many inches different are they from the field points?
 
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