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Bowtech Realm X - laser alignment

Silvio

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 6, 2019
Messages
951
Location
Grand Blanc MI
For all you Bowtech guys...heres a method I use to correct cam lean and adjust your cams for perfect alignment. I use my Bosch laser level to check the vertical 20200304_213605.jpg
After the bow season my upper cam generate a lean. I dont own a spot hog laser alignment tool which cost $140 so I just used my Bosch laser I use for work.
You'll notice the green laser runs perfectly thru the center of my lower and upper cams...
 
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Did you get the cam lean squared away with yoke tuning? I have a 2013ish Bowtech RPM 360 that has a bit of cam lean, and correcting that is on my short list of things to do.
 
Did you get the cam lean squared away with yoke tuning? I have a 2013ish Bowtech RPM 360 that has a bit of cam lean, and correcting that is on my short list of things to do.
Ya, I twisted my top yoke string 8 full turns to get it to square then I ran my horizontal laser line on the came axle....it allowed me to dial it in...to being totally square...it shoots awesome...
 
My bowtech experience actually likes a bit of cam lean. I centered my rest perfectly and took out all cam lean then I paper tuned by adjusting the yokes to get perfect arrow flight. My bow/form likes just a little bit of a lean. Shoots like a dream

this is a fantastic idea and I will probably use it!
 
My bowtech experience actually likes a bit of cam lean. I centered my rest perfectly and took out all cam lean then I paper tuned by adjusting the yokes to get perfect arrow flight. My bow/form likes just a little bit of a lean. Shoots like a dream

this is a fantastic idea and I will probably use it!
My bow has never shot better...since I did this a few days ago....I'm currently shooting in a archery league and just wanted my bow shooting as good as it can...I've shot Hoyts for years but the Realm X is a total homerun in my opinion
 
Cam lean isn't always a bad thing. Some bows actually require some lean to tune properly and give best arrow flight. Also, changing the lean can change your cam timing. After changing the lean, be sure to check the timing, center shot, and shoot a few arrows through paper to make sure you're still getting bullet holes...
 
Great idea! I got this bow this past season. My last bow was 14yrs old. Holy cow, what a difference.
 
You actually want just a touch of cam lean.
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What I noticed was the axle wasn't quite level or one limb was higher than the other. Your limbs in my opinion need to mirror themselves to produce peak shooting performance. Yes you could end up with cam lean, but measuring from the outside edge of your limb over to the cam can really dial in arrow flight...do this on the top and bottom limbs and you'll be amazed how straight your arrow flys... all in all...minimizing Cam Lean on your top and bottom axles should facilitate great arrow flight.
 
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For all you Bowtech guys...heres a method I use to correct cam lean and adjust your cams for perfect alignment. I use my Bosch laser level to check the vertical View attachment 25905
After the bow season my upper cam generate a lean. I dont own a spot hog laser alignment tool which cost $140 so I just used my Bosch laser I use for work.
You'll notice the green laser runs perfectly thru the center of my lower and upper cams...

Can you give some details on how you positioned the laser level to do this? It's off screen, it seems, and I can't visualize how this is done (I haven't used a laser level much). Thanks.
 
You want to optimize cam lean. Not necessarily eliminate it.

Its more important what’s going on at full draw than brace height..
 
Well, I level the bow and square up my laser to the floor line....when your bow is completely square vertically and horizontally your ready to see what cam is leaning more aggressively to one side or the other. The good news is once you make that correction your going to eliminate an extreme cam lean at full draw...thats what my goal has always been...as a result, your going to be able to now micro tune your arrow by first paper shooting a fletch arrow until you generate a bullet hole now your going to shoot a bare shaft and fine tune you micro adjustments until your shooting a complete bullet hole...yes a slight cam lean is ok. But in my oppinion the more you take out the lean in your bows static position the more your cams staying a vertical position at full draw and straighter arrow flight
 
Well, I level the bow and square up my laser to the floor line....when your bow is completely square vertically and horizontally your ready to see what cam is leaning more aggressively to one side or the other. The good news is once you make that correction your going to eliminate an extreme cam lean at full draw...thats what my goal has always been...as a result, your going to be able to now micro tune your arrow by first paper shooting a fletch arrow until you generate a bullet hole now your going to shoot a bare shaft and fine tune you micro adjustments until your shooting a complete bullet hole...yes a slight cam lean is ok. But in my oppinion the more you take out the lean in your bows static position the more your cams staying a vertical position at full draw and straighter arrow flight

Thanks. I've been paper tuning, etc for a while so I understand that and cam lean. I just don't get how you use the laser to shoot a line down the string. Where is the level at in the pic and what are you doing with it? Do you have the level against something else and then you pivot it up and down the string or something?
 
You want to optimize cam lean. Not necessarily eliminate it.

Its more important what’s going on at full draw than brace height..

With the new bowtechs (with deadlock, which I now have), a lot of folks say to put in a draw board and at full draw adjust the cams until they are "pointing" right at each other (same plane, no lean). And then use that as your starting point, making all cam movements the same amount and in the same direction.

I shot hybrid cams before this, so there was no opportunity to do all of that. I just set the rest to 13/16" and then twisted the yokes until I got a good tear, and then microadjusted the rest after that to fix whatever yoke tuning was too coarse to fix.
 
Well my level shoots 3 different lines at the same time...initially I'll have a string level on my bow to level the bow up, but I take that off and then set up my laser on a tri-pod....I will say you can use the laser pointing at the bow from the front with an arrow on and your laser should line up your arrow to the laser mark...at this point it's micro tuning a the smallest movement
 
Well my level shoots 3 different lines at the same time...initially I'll have a string level on my bow to level the bow up, but I take that off and then set up my laser on a tri-pod....I will say you can use the laser pointing at the bow from the front with an arrow on and your laser should line up your arrow to the laser mark...at this point it's micro tuning a the smallest movement

Thanks. The only laser levels I've used were very basic then.
 
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