Bowtuneschool.com

[Nimbus1376]

Was considering dropping the $300-ish for this program. My nearest good shop is 30-40 minutes away and it’d be nice to be able to tune my own bow without fear of really screwing it up. Does anyone have any experience with this program? Is it worth it?

 

[Jay_Disarray]

I dont have experience with this particular company, but I see knowledge as invaluable.

If its legit, $300 could be the same cost of a mistake you'd make and mess up your limbs, or 2 new strings. I'd invest in knowledge if it saves me time and hassle in the long run.

Also, following

 

[CZMark]

Before you drop $300, read through this for free: http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf

 

[JoePA]

I just jumped head first down the bow tuning rabbit hole and learned a lot in the last few months. So much free content out there. 300 would almost get you an ez green press. I have a mathews vertix and have totally redone everything. The bow shops around me invest zero time in tuning a bow. I installed new strings, rest, nock sets, d loop, peep, cam timing, cam sync, top hats, 2nd axis, 3rd axis. Made a draw board, paper tuning stand, got an ez green press, made an arrow saw. Bought levels, scales, serving jig, fletching jig. Watched a ton of videos. Dudley, aron snyder, levi morgan and any video on tuning a mathews. Seems complicated at first but the more you learn the simpler it gets. Bows are expensive and should perform like they should. I've had fun with it. Buy the tools and start tuning. You won't regret it. Plenty of free material out there to get started. Archery talk is good reading but have to weed through a lot of BS.

 

[Loucamp]

^^ Same as @JoePA here. Fully agree with his assessment. After I paid shops twice to basically "detune" my bow, I went in head first, bought or made the equipment and read, watched, and learned. Have considered courses but unless I want to open a business I did not personally see the need. If you apply practical thinking to your approach, you will be sucessful. I have since set up and tuned bunches of bows for family and friends, changed many sets of strings, etc. The equipment has paid for itself many times over. Good luck. However you decide to approach this I'm sure you will find satisfaction and enjoyment.

 

[wihunter50]

Bought my first bow this last December. Have really enjoyed shooting it, but have grown increasingly frustrated with the conflicting information I have received from different archery shops near me regarding tuning and arrow selection. While I appreciate that there is possibly more than one "right" answer, it seems the opinions are drastically different. For example, shop A where I purchased my bow (call this the old timer shop) says we don't tune your bow to your arrows, we choose the arrows that best fit to your bow. Based on their recommendation I bought 600 spine arrows with feathers. I was also told to not have my knuckles at 45 deg because this creates torque in the bow, and to not use a loop because it changes the draw length. I happened to drop into shop B (call this the "young buck" shop) and described my bow set up and arrows, and was told "I would never sell you a 600 spine arrow, even the manufacturer would advise against shooting a 600 with your set up. You need a loop, and you should have your knuckles at a 45 deg angle to avoid creating torque in the bow." They sold me a 400 spine arrow with a smaller diameter shaft (which I actually like and prefer). Back at shop A I spoke with the owner about my "new" set up with the loop and the arrows, and he basically said they would have to "detune" my bow to make it work with the arrows I purchased. Needless to say, I realize I need to spend some time learning how to tune my bow and set up my arrows so I can form my own opinions, so the information above is much appreciated. BTW, I think both shops are great and will return to both of them in the future.

 

[Jay_Disarray]

depending on the manufacturer of your arrow, your spine may vary slightly, but 600 spine arrow is extremely light, and at least according to Gold Tip standards is only shot by a bow between 30-35# at a 25-28" draw length for a compound bow. A recurve may vary, i dont know spine for recurve arrows. Id be very wary about shooting one of those beyond using for a kids bow. google image search for arrow through hand and you can see some of the results of broken and underspined arrows, not pretty and definitely NSFW.

Gold Tip - Calculators

Calculators to help archers select the correct arrow, find the perfect front of center, and spine selection.

www.goldtip.com

 

[wihunter50]

@Jay_Disarray your point is exactly the point of shop B and why they sold me the 400 spine. Shop A stated that a 600 spined arrow does not have the same "flex" when cut down (it becomes stiffer due to shorter length) and will perform more like a 400-500 spined arrow depending on the length, which from a physics standpoint makes sense, hence my confusion.

 

[JoePA]

@Jay_Disarray your point is exactly the point of shop B and why they sold me the 400 spine. Shop A stated that a 600 spined arrow does not have the same "flex" when cut down (it becomes stiffer due to shorter length) and will perform more like a 400-500 spined arrow depending on the length, which from a physics standpoint makes sense, hence my confusion.

I agree with Jay and mostly what shop B is telling you. Need more specs on ur set up. Draw length, poundage, type of release, sounds like you're shooting a compound. No way I would shoot a 600 spine arrow out of a compound.I don't care how short you cut arrows. D loops are pretty much standard these days with more advantages than clipping to string.

 

[Jay_Disarray]

Shop a is also accurate that a cut down arrow will have a slightly stiffer spine than at the 30" they test the spines at, but 600 is still severely underspined for almost any compound bow.

I believe the most common spine is either a 400 or 350 spine

 

[Jay_Disarray]

It sounds like the old timer is still setting up bows the "old fashioned way".

They used to find the right spine that shot through your bow, through trial and error. This was the days of weaker compound bows, and aluminum arrows

 

[wihunter50]

@Jay_Disarray and @JoePA thanks for your comments. Looking at an arrow calculator (if I'm interpreting it correctly) the recommended spine for my set up is 400 (100 gr tip, 54# weight, 28" arrow), which is why I asked Shop B about my arrows. Yes, I think Shop A is using "time-tested" methodology based on experience, but I wonder if current technology has addressed some the "tuning" issues that may have been necessary with recurve or early compound bows.

 

[woodsdog2]

Check out Average Jack Archery or Sean's Outdoor Adventure's youtube channels and I recently posted a link to a great new bowhunting tuning video from Eastman's Hunting Journal which is very straightforward for tuning your bow for hunting. I highly recommend all three of these channels.

 

[woodsdog2]

@Jay_Disarray your point is exactly the point of shop B and why they sold me the 400 spine. Shop A stated that a 600 spined arrow does not have the same "flex" when cut down (it becomes stiffer due to shorter length) and will perform more like a 400-500 spined arrow depending on the length, which from a physics standpoint makes sense, hence my confusion.

That is true, an arrow does become stiffer or "flexes less" the shorter it is cut. So a .600 spine may be too flexible for a guy shooting a 30" DL and a 150gr head but it may be perfect for the guy with a 25" DL and shooting an 85gr. head. It all depends on your DL, DW, Cam design, arrow rest, release (mechanical vs. fingers) etc. If you are trying to develop an extreme or ultimate extreme FOC set up the .600 spine arrows cut shorter may give you the spine you need but also the very light weight you may desire to have an UEFOC setup. Don't discount the "old" shop's advice either because a lot of this depends on you and your setup not what the "industry average" setups may be at the time.

 

[wihunter50]

@woodsdog2 thanks for the comment. Definitely not discounting anyone’s advice and like both shops. As a newbie with zero experience, just trying to understand how there can be such a large difference of opinion (400 vs 600 spine) from what I consider two knowledgeable shops. The grip and d loop I can appreciate is maybe more subject to preference or opinion, but the spine seems like it would be dictated by physics and engineering?


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[woodsdog2]

@woodsdog2 thanks for the comment. Definitely not discounting anyone’s advice and like both shops. As a newbie with zero experience, just trying to understand how there can be such a large difference of opinion (400 vs 600 spine) from what I consider two knowledgeable shops. The grip and d loop I can appreciate is maybe more subject to preference or opinion, but the spine seems like it would be dictated by physics and engineering?


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I completely understand. You are blessed that you are just starting out so do not have any pre-conceived notions and may not be all caught up in arrow speed vs. arrow lethality. I think there is a happy balance between shot trajectory and penetration. A lot of people are still caught up with the speed of their arrows rather than the lethality of their arrows or "terminal performance" on real live flesh and blood game animals. The old analogy, would you rather be hit by a fast moving ping pong ball or a slow moving brick? Much the same with arrows. I don't remember what you said your DL or DW is or the aggressiveness of your bow, etc. but speaking now, and I emphasize this.... speaking now just of generalities... if you can get a lighter weight arrow overall (generally a function, in part of the thickness of the wall of the arrow so a thicker walled arrow will generally be stiffer and also heavier than a thinner walled arrow of the same length) with a heavier insert and point weight that is extremely durable.... you will have the makings of an awesome, extreme or ultra extreme foc arrow that will penetrate game very effectively. You want the point to pull the arrow through the deer not the rear to push it through. Now I'm not saying .600 spine is right for your and .400 spine is not. All I am saying is that depending on a lot of variables and your intentions, both may work for your particular set up. Clear as mud? My advice is to remain objective and learn on your own via your own research and based on your individual goals and expectations what you believe to be the best set up for your at this stage in your bowhunting continuum. I really like Ranch Fairy's stuff, Ashby's stuff, Average Jack Archery, Sean's Outdoor Adventures, Eastman's Hunting Journal, Inside- Out Precision... all good bow hunting and bow tuning information on those channels.

 

[woodsdog2]

For the newbie bowhunter just wanting to get great arrow flight with broadheads, a recent youtube video on broadhead tuning your bow from Eastman's Hunting Journal is very straightforward and I highly recommend it.

 

[wihunter50]

@woodsdog2 for an update, I did shoot my 100 gr iron will broadheads today after watching the Eastman video you recommended, and I had two field points and two broadheads in the center at 20 yds with the 400 spine arrows. I think I'll stick with what I got for now. Heading out with the bow to hopefully slay a turkey this weekend. Thanks for all the info.

 

[woodsdog2]

@woodsdog2 for an update, I did shoot my 100 gr iron will broadheads today after watching the Eastman video you recommended, and I had two field points and two broadheads in the center at 20 yds with the 400 spine arrows. I think I'll stick with what I got for now. Heading out with the bow to hopefully slay a turkey this weekend. Thanks for all the info.

Glad to hear! Good luck and be sure to post your pics if you connect!!!

 

[raisins]

I just jumped head first down the bow tuning rabbit hole and learned a lot in the last few months. So much free content out there. 300 would almost get you an ez green press. I have a mathews vertix and have totally redone everything. The bow shops around me invest zero time in tuning a bow. I installed new strings, rest, nock sets, d loop, peep, cam timing, cam sync, top hats, 2nd axis, 3rd axis. Made a draw board, paper tuning stand, got an ez green press, made an arrow saw. Bought levels, scales, serving jig, fletching jig. Watched a ton of videos. Dudley, aron snyder, levi morgan and any video on tuning a mathews. Seems complicated at first but the more you learn the simpler it gets. Bows are expensive and should perform like they should. I've had fun with it. Buy the tools and start tuning. You won't regret it. Plenty of free material out there to get started. Archery talk is good reading but have to weed through a lot of BS.

Sounds like you have a nice setup.

I agree with you and @JoePA .

If you find it interesting and start reading/watching videos online then you'll hear a bunch of different ideas but also hear common perspectives. You'll get a general idea of standard techniques within a few months.

What I don't think folks should do is be in a rush. Don't just search on youtube "how to tie a d loop" and then follow the first video immediately step by step. With a wealth of good, free info comes with it bad. Watch quality, known guys and watch several before making a move, and also spend time thinking about it and all the steps you'll do in order.

One guy that has excellent bow tuning and arrow making videos is Bowmar. Also, Tim Gillingham from Gold Tip and pro archery and Chris Bee. Dudley and Morgan have already been mentioned.