You don't have too many options. It comes down to "how much weight do you want it to hold" and you get about 2 choices per weight rating.
The Harken-150 is rated for 300lbs. Your stick will actually experience less than that against a tree, but you want to round up for safety margin anyway.
Personally, I got the 500lb rated version, so I can carry a deer up the tree with me while I'm goin' for 2. j/k. It's because I like cake.
Where did you get the cam cleat rated for 500lbs?
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Somewhere on this site, somebody used a scale to measure the actual force on their sticks and the rope around the tree. I can't find that post right now but it's here somewhere.This is something I've wondered with the cam cleats.. how much tension is the line actually seeing.. I get that some of your weight is supported by the friction of the stick to the tree, but considering the angle of the strap/rope/whatever... how much tension is that actually seeing?
..thanks.. I'll have to dig aroundSomewhere on this site, somebody used a scale to measure the actual force on their sticks and the rope around the tree. I can't find that post right now but it's here somewhere.
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When I tried and tested the smaller cam cleat rated at 150 pounds I was seeing if I could break it by jumping up and down on the step. Because it was rated at a low rate I wanted to be sure it was safe. I broke it and went to medium cam cleats which I have used for two years and I have had no problems
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What smaller cam cleat did you use? I think the micro I have coming is rated at 200#.
And which medium one has worked? Just in case I decide micro isn’t going to cut it.
I have never had a problem with a medium cam cleat
Rope Ø 1/8 - 1/2 in.
Height 1 in.
Width 1 1/4 in.
Length 2 5/8 in.
Fastener Ø 3/16 in.
Fastener Hole Centres 1 1/2 in.
M.W.L. 275 lb.
B. L. 550 lb.
Weight 1.8 oz.
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I have tried some of the plastic pull down anchor locks and truly they aren’t designed for that much force to be applied to them. Remember that the force isn’t straight front and back, there’s a downward force applied as well. Add in some of them are very difficult to get the rope to pull all the way down into and out of, and it really isn’t good. You would be better to use a small steel or aluminum cleat and just wrap/tie it off similar to a boat mooring. But the harken cam clear works great and if fits on the hawk minis pretty well.This thread is a bit older, but wanted to ask: Has anyone used other types of cams such as these pictured? They aren't mechanical and the top one, in theory, would fit a stick and allow you to pull the line pretty tight before seating it in the cam and then I think it would be easy to lift the line out. the lower one seems to span the gap between using a versa button to pull out slack but instead of needing an overhand, you could cam the line to hold. The third picture is another cam cleat design specifically designed for a non-sailing application: People working on telephone poles use them on ladders to cam off a lineman-type line so the ladder stays secure to the pole. I'm still looking around for weight ratings and other types of cams like this but wanted to see if anyone had tried using something like these, what their thoughts were, etc.
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I put one on an old steel post hawk and I used oplux, instead of tying it off I would wrap the 8 over the clear twice and tuck the tail under the second wrap. It definitely isn’t as quick as the harken cam is but it was strong, and it was quieter than the nylon straps with a big cam buckle on it.@Fl Canopy Stalker
Yeah, lots of them are not very heavy duty. Wondered about a standard cleat you'd see at a mooring or dock but you'd end up throwing a half hitch around it or figure 8 the line and that probably wouldn't be nearly as easy as getting the line undone in comparison to a harken cam. That said, I may pick up one of the more heavy duty pinch style cams and play with it a bit at low heights, put it through some stress testing.