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Carabiner for tether

Tater

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2018
Messages
56
I think most all of us would agree a locking carabiner is what should be used on your tether/bridge connection.

I was curious what everyone's thoughts are in using something like the Grivel Plume K3G? Not technically locking, but also not easily opened accidentally.

Came across the Grivel while looking for the lightest possible carabiner for this connection point.
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I started using then this year. Look at the minor axis strength of the grivel vs something like a positron. They're fine. Literally the same rating.

I would say, in my uninformed opinion, that the grivel is superior because it's almost impossible to have an open-gate scenario, and you're not going to get "gate flutter."

Only drawback is that the dual gate can be kinda hard to manipulate. Not a problem for me in the sunny south, but if you're trying to monkey with it using frozen, gloved fingers it could be a pain.
 
I have 2 and I know others here use them .Ill sell you the ones I have as I have a ton of other carininers.PM me if interested. I would definitely use them but I like the "feeling" of a screw lock caribiner.Other than that they are a great biner
 
Is there a generally accepted minimum when it comes to major and minor axis load ratings. Seemsblike most biners folks are using are 22-25kN major and 8+kN minor.

Would one that is 20kN and 7kN be sufficient? I feel it should be, as im no more than 200lb with full gear. 170lb give or take on a normal day.

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22kn major axis strength seems to be the standard in the rock climbing world. 7-8kn for a minor axis is normal. I personally use tubular webbing which is only 18kn (4000lbs) for a tether. It depends on how you climb, what you weigh, how climbing savvy you are, and what your risk tolerance is.

I don't think you'll find anyone who wouldnt use a 20kn biner on their tether.
 
I actually like the self locking carabiners that came with my Kestrel. They are a little bigger but the auto twist lock feature is a no-brainer. I caught myself in the past forgetting to lock the manual thread locks so for safety auto locks are all I will use now.
 
I would just use a regular locking carabiner. Screw locks are quiet and easy to manipulate. You’re only handling it twice a hunt. I use an auto locking on my linesman’s.
 
22kn major axis strength seems to be the standard in the rock climbing world. 7-8kn for a minor axis is normal. I personally use tubular webbing which is only 18kn (4000lbs) for a tether. It depends on how you climb, what you weigh, how climbing savvy you are, and what your risk tolerance is.

I don't think you'll find anyone who wouldnt use a 20kn biner on their tether.

I know that the tubular webbing is strong enough, but I found the flat rescue webbing is rated at 6000lbs or 26.6kN. I think I may have ordered a bit more than I will ever use.
 
I started using then this year. Look at the minor axis strength of the grivel vs something like a positron. They're fine. Literally the same rating.

I would say, in my uninformed opinion, that the grivel is superior because it's almost impossible to have an open-gate scenario, and you're not going to get "gate flutter."

Only drawback is that the dual gate can be kinda hard to manipulate. Not a problem for me in the sunny south, but if you're trying to monkey with it using frozen, gloved fingers it could be a pain.
@Nutterbuster I respect your knowledge, but am somewhat confused as to why you would add carabiners to your system. Your goal has always been simplest and lightest approach. This seems to deviate from your methodology.
 
@Nutterbuster I respect your knowledge, but am somewhat confused as to why you would add carabiners to your system. Your goal has always been simplest and lightest approach. This seems to deviate from your methodology.
I was under the impression he was using the grivel biner for his LB.

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I believe he is using it as a detachable Tether and Bridge combo. He explains in one of his videos his new system. I like the cobra buckle and webbing it works well for my setup. I don't think I will follow suit with the detachable bridge.
 
I believe he is using it as a detachable Tether and Bridge combo. He explains in one of his videos his new system. I like the cobra buckle and webbing it works well for my setup. I don't think I will follow suit with the detachable bridge.
The system I'm using adds 1 biner, but it gets the bridge out of the way when putting the saddle on, walking in, and climbing. Used to I had to step through a bridge, and it could get hung up on steps or bolts if I wasn't careful. This system is lighter than probably 90% of folks' tether/bridge setups, and really isn't anymore complicated.
 
The system I'm using adds 1 biner, but it gets the bridge out of the way when putting the saddle on, walking in, and climbing. Used to I had to step through a bridge, and it could get hung up on steps or bolts if I wasn't careful. This system is lighter than probably 90% of folks' tether/bridge setups, and really isn't anymore complicated.
Mr. @Nutterbuster you have my interest. I am using the Cobra Buckle on my Flex saddle. I attached the Cobra buckle on the bridge and thread my tether. Works great with the exception the bridge get in my way while wearing my saddle to and fro. I can't find the post where you made the combo bridge and tether. I would like to try it. I have a extra Cobra buckle so I can make the combo without removing my current setup. I would like to know if you still like this idea. If you do what use and would you change anything.
 
Only drawback is that the dual gate can be kinda hard to manipulate. Not a problem for me in the sunny south, but if you're trying to monkey with it using frozen, gloved fingers it could be a pain.
After a few hunts in cold weather, they're manageable, probably still safer than an autolocker (which I've had freeze up on me). I use a muff as my main hand insulation, and moderate-weight gloves when climbing. I've only gone down into the lower teens so far as it hasn't gotten super cold until today. Clipping in is easy (you guide the outer gate right on to your loop or bridge). Sometimes the hook on the nose will get a tad snaggy on release. You wouldn't be able to operate them with legit cold weather gloves, but with those you can at best barely operate a rifle and def. not a bow.
 
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