Carabiner Orientation

[deertrout]

I have always thought that the correct way to use a carabiner was with the gate facing up and the top (big end) of the carabiner pointing up. Seeing some pics from people here, I see some guys doing it that way, some doing it another, and some doing both at the same time. I did some google searching and searched here, but I'm seeing conflicting advice. What's the safest orientation for a carabiner on the prusik on your tether to latch onto your bridge? What's the safest orientation for a carabiner attaching your LB or end of your bridge to attach to the bridge or LB loops? Thanks

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[pesqimon]

The idea is to orient the biner in such a way as to minimize the chances of bumping the gate and having it open at the wrong time. Cross loading should also be considered. Theres a good post called “dangers of carabiner loading” or something like that around here.

For me, the best way is to have my tether carabiner with the gate towards me and the opening down. For my linesmans carabiner I have the gate away from so that the gate doesnt bump my body, the tree or climbing implements.

 

[swamp_possum]

Screw lock biners always face down. Gravity helps keep the screw lock from unscrewing

 

[judd1980]

I was always taught, screw down so you don’t screw up

 

[Spence71]

I was always taught, screw down so you don’t screw up

That’s how I run mine. Gate on top and with the fat end towards me. So gate up, screws towards me to close... downhill. I don’t know how much affect gravity is having with that. Nor do I know if it’s “correct”.

I think at the end of the day, avoiding side load is key. And the rest is user preference for what we do.


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[pesqimon]

That’s how I run mine. Gate on top and with the fat end towards me. So gate up, screws towards me to close... downhill. I don’t know how much affect gravity is having with that. Nor do I know if it’s “correct”.

I think at the end of the day, avoiding side load is key. And the rest is user preference for what we do.


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it definitely matters less with autolocking biners. On the other hand autolocking biners can create complacency.
In the climbing world, things rattling and banging against rocks, gravity will have more of an effect on a screw lock. Not as big of a deal when you’re just hanging there.