KayakEvan
New Member
I've always one sticked down. It really is easy and like @clint6760 said I think it's faster than going up. I keep my gear as simple as I can so I don't want to carry the extra ropes and gear for repelling.
Awesome thank you so much! I will start looking into these for sure!I see there have been several replies to address the question. But I will give you my opinion since I offered help and you asked.
1. You need rope. What rope depends on what device you plan to use to rappel and whether you want to stay with in manufacture recommendations for rope size for said device. I use a rope and device that are not in spec but I have never had a problem. And I don't anticipate I will.
2. A device to rappel on, there are several. Cost and rope size will be your determining factors. There are ATCs, Figure 8's, Levered Descenders/Ascenders (Madrock Safeguard and Petzel Grigi).
3. I recommend a friction hitch as an auto block. Some rappel methods it's almost a must, others it would be optional but wise.
Those are the 3 must. An option is a quick link for the the end of your rappel line. I use a carabiner but people will warn against that. I am not saying they are not correct in their warnings. I'm just smart enough to make my own decisions and understand what side loading a carabiner means and we aren't doing that in our applications when rappelling.
So I would get an 8mm rope. Personally I prefer the Samson Ultra Tech @DanO sells. 8mm packs much better than even 9mm. With 8mm you then have to decide if you want a rappel device designed for 8mm rope. If you do, you are looking at finding a Grivel Master Mono which they don't make anymore or a figure 8 device. If you don't care to be in spec then the door opens. I use a safeguard, the rope I used is not in spec with it but I have never had an issue. You have to make that decision though. Next is your friction hitch. Just buy a 35cm Beal Jammy. It will work with whatever rope you go with and you are set. Quick-link/carabiner are optional but highly recommended. Anymore questions just ask.
I have the hawk helium sticks with the versa button what are your thoughts on ease with that setup?I agree with everyone that rappelling is a lot more fun, which is why I plan on doing it 75% of the time. (In addition to the fact that I plan on SRT-ing at certain preset spots, and rappelling just makes sense)
However, don't let them fool you into thinking that one-sticking down is the most miserable thing in the world. For the longest time, I thought coming back down was a lot easier than climbing up. I guess a lot of it depends on your stick attachment method. Climbing down with a cam strap (my method) isn't that bad, whereas with a daisy chain or rope/cam cleat, it MIGHT be miserable.
I have the hawk helium sticks with the versa button what are your thoughts on ease with that setup?
Start with the straps. Then when you get comfortable with those try a webbing or Amsteel daisy chain. I say get comfortable with the straps first because those get the stick tighter on the tree and it’s better for getting used to them. The daisy chain type is quicker, easier, and lighter, but the trade off is having to pay a little more attention in the setting the stick process, so being comfortable with the sticks is helpful.I have the hawk helium sticks with the versa button what are your thoughts on ease with that setup?
I haven't tried all of the devices that you have as I just own the lifeguard and safeguard. I do find my ATC easier to use with an autoblock. To me it is just a smoother descent. I find it difficult to pull on the lever on the safeguard/lifeguard. But I do weigh 210 pounds so there is that much more force the mechanism has to overcome.Here is a good video on rappelling. I have been recommending mechanical belay devices for rappeling for a long time. Some are Petzl Gri Gri, Madrock Safeguard and Lifeguard, Beal Birdie and Trango Cinch. Those are all I have. They all work to rappel. They are just easier to use than an ATC type device. Kind of like an automatic transmission as opposed to a manual transmssion.
I see there have been several replies to address the question. But I will give you my opinion since I offered help and you asked.
1. You need rope. What rope depends on what device you plan to use to rappel and whether you want to stay with in manufacture recommendations for rope size for said device. I use a rope and device that are not in spec but I have never had a problem. And I don't anticipate I will.
2. A device to rappel on, there are several. Cost and rope size will be your determining factors. There are ATCs, Figure 8's, Levered Descenders/Ascenders (Madrock Safeguard and Petzel Grigi).
3. I recommend a friction hitch as an auto block. Some rappel methods it's almost a must, others it would be optional but wise.
Those are the 3 must. An option is a quick link for the the end of your rappel line. I use a carabiner but people will warn against that. I am not saying they are not correct in their warnings. I'm just smart enough to make my own decisions and understand what side loading a carabiner means and we aren't doing that in our applications when rappelling.
So I would get an 8mm rope. Personally I prefer the Samson Ultra Tech @DanO sells. 8mm packs much better than even 9mm. With 8mm you then have to decide if you want a rappel device designed for 8mm rope. If you do, you are looking at finding a Grivel Master Mono which they don't make anymore or a figure 8 device. If you don't care to be in spec then the door opens. I use a safeguard, the rope I used is not in spec with it but I have never had an issue. You have to make that decision though. Next is your friction hitch. Just buy a 35cm Beal Jammy. It will work with whatever rope you go with and you are set. Quick-link/carabiner are optional but highly recommended. Anymore questions just ask.
Yep. Tail end to eye end is 36.5'. I had mine made with a 5" sewn eye. When I ordered they said they could do a spliced eye but it would have to be a naked splice, meaning there would be no outer sheath on the eye, only the core. Didn't want that so I opted for the sewn. Works and I like the finished look but eyes are mostly astetic on 8mm ropes in my opinon. They knot pretty small.Are you still loving the ultra-tech? How many feet do you carry? Thanks
Oplux, figure 8, and paracord to pull the rope down once back on the ground.
I run a weird figure 8 system, where you have your carabiner clipped into the big figure 8 hole and use the small hole as a lever to descend. If I keep it loaded with weight, it's easy street. It isnt the absolute safest method, but I have used it 70ish times without trouble.
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
If the pull is really hard try going closer or further away from the tree, there is a sweet spot angle. But yes, back it up.I may have mentioned this before, but please back this up with an autoblock. I was doing this method this spring (without backing it up). I was having to pull really hard to get it to release. When it finally did, I free fell 12’ flat on my back. I would have been ok if so just had it backed up. Don’t be stupid like me.
The cool thing about that method is it works as a progress capture on the way up (like a Safeguard).
Yes autoblockI may have mentioned this before, but please back this up with an autoblock. I was doing this method this spring (without backing it up). I was having to pull really hard to get it to release. When it finally did, I free fell 12’ flat on my back. I would have been ok if so just had it backed up. Don’t be stupid like me.
The cool thing about that method is it works as a progress capture on the way up (like a Safeguard).
Maybe I should just make one?Does anyone have or know of a video of descending using one stick? I'm a visual guy and would love to watch one.
David
If the pull is really hard try going closer or further away from the tree, there is a sweet spot angle. But yes, back it up.
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
I can't say one way or the other for sure but I doubt it. If you are running the crazy 8 rappel system the only thing that matters is when you pull the small side down it slowly relieves pressure on the friction hitch( or whatever) i found certain angles are a harder pull, similiar to when you try to pull down your rappel rope.I hated physics in college. You just had to scratch that old wound, didn’t ya? Just kidding. I might give it another shot (backed up for sure!). My 8 plate (Mammut Bionic) isn’t round. I wonder if that had anything to do with it?
If I saw it correct, it is out of spec. They recommend 9-11 mm rope for it. Not a lot of options for 8mm rope that are in spec for rappelling.
I can't say one way or the other for sure but I doubt it. If you are running the crazy 8 rappel system the only thing that matters is when you pull the small side down it slowly relieves pressure on the friction hitch( or whatever) i found certain angles are a harder pull, similiar to when you try to pull down your rappel rope.
Also, if I fell 12 feet I'd probably find a way to buy something expensive that promises it wouldn't happen again.
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk