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DIY Utilibridge

This will give you a square tree attachment instead of a triangle. It should be way more comfortable. It would look like the letter H instead of A on the tree.
 
Would attaching to the tree with a square make it more difficult to move around the tree? As opposed to a single pivot point?
 
Maybe. I am not sure. The tether slides through both rings on the tree so you can still pivot but I am not sure if you could move around the tree as easy. I will be trying a dog bone though for a bridge because I can remove it and also I can attach the tag end to my lineman's loop. I was just thinking after seeing the earlier discussions on tree squeezes.
 
Ontariofarmer said:
Yes, I am trying to decide what to do. With a dogbone you could girth hitch one end or use a carabiner and you can secure the tag end as well.
Even if there is a soft spot in the middle I don't think it will be a problem. The prussic may just slide past that spot.

You could also disconnect one side and slide it through a tree squeeze to widen the attachment point to the tree. This would eliminate all hip pinch IMO> you could also use it that way to spur up if you use spurs. I was thinking it would make uncomfortable saddles more comfortable.
Click to expand...
Ok. I was thinking you wanted to have the safety of the tie into the saddle. I'm going to try a longer "dogbone" bridge with the prussic. A lot easier to "tie"/attach in the sewing process.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Homebrew454 said:
Ok. I was thinking you wanted to have the safety of the tie into the saddle. I'm going to try a longer "dogbone" bridge with the prussic. A lot easier to "tie"/attach in the sewing process.

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Click to expand...

Yes that was my first thought
You were thinking correctly

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Still tinkering with it at ground level, but this may be my favorite bridge so far. Props to Tethrd for the idea and innovation.
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always89y said:
Well, that was a bit of a bear, but I think i got it. Started out with a 42 inch piece of 3/16 amsteel. Continuous loop on the bridge loop (or d-ring in this case). Full bury back to middle. Then wrapped the amsteel around a thin diamerter knitting needle. 3 wraps each side and then twist it so the outside is on the inside. Repeat on other side. Shove 1/4 full length bury bridge through and done.
Decided to put this on my Wraptor since I do not wear it under the coveralls.
Click to expand...
Man you saved my life with this made it super easy thanks !!
 
Im sorry if this has been answered, but i looked thru most of the thread and couldnt find an answer.

If im using 1/4 amsteel thats not full berried, will a loop of 3/16 amsteel work for the prusik? If so, how much 3/16 is needed to make a continuous loop that will work and not be to long?
 
MAHunter said:
Im sorry if this has been answered, but i looked thru most of the thread and couldnt find an answer.

If im using 1/4 amsteel thats not full berried, will a loop of 3/16 amsteel work for the prusik? If so, how much 3/16 is needed to make a continuous loop that will work and not be to long?
Click to expand...
You better do a full bury. It gives the rope a core, that’s what the prusik grabs on to
 
Hunter260 said:
You better do a full bury. It gives the rope a core, that’s what the prusik grabs on to
Click to expand...

The 1/4 is pretty solid when under load. I understand the idea of the full bury giving it more to bite into, but i would think it would still bite into it without the full bury.
 
To answer my question, i used some left over 1/8in amsteel and made a full bury continuous loop for a prusik on my 1/4in (non full bury) bridge and it holds great. Just hung a couple feet off the ground and bounced in the saddle with no slippage. I did tie the tag end of the bridge to my saddle just incase the prusik broke for what ever reason.
 
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