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DIY Utilibridge

I tied the Prussik first around a fixed object, then girth hitched the continuous loop, then spiraled the bridge through the Prussik and removed the fixed object

The Prussik you see here is 1/4”
Amsteel left over from the mantis bridge I disassembled.

My 3/16” amsteel arrived today, so I’m going to make a batch of continuous loops over the next few days.

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Thanks for the motivation @Squirrels. Girth hitch first then twist the loops in and the magic happens when you twist the loops around from the inside out!
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It’s not going to get any closer than that. I had to fish some 7/64 amsteel through and pull the bridge back through. Thanks again for all the posts and help guys. Y’all make everything possible!


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spear0 said:
Thanks for the motivation @Squirrels. Girth hitch first then twist the loops in and the magic happens when you twist the loops around from the inside out!
80e1487ceadce1308056d593bda4a223.jpg
1bb696fe76128f9b422b1bb2c17e5ff7.jpg

It’s not going to get any closer than that. I had to fish some 7/64 amsteel through and pull the bridge back through. Thanks again for all the posts and help guys. Y’all make everything possible!


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Click to expand...

I knew you’d figure it out. Trust me I struggled with it the first time. Once I figured it out I called myself a dumba$$ and laughed. It’s fairly simple.
 
DaveT1963 said:
It actually took me a while to figure it out as well. I have since replaced all my bridges.
Click to expand...
Im just trying to figure it our for the sake of figuring it out. Im going to stick with webbing bridges and AstriAlpine buckle as I need to be able to open my bridge when wearing the saddle under my coveralls.
I have figured out how to get the prussik on the saddle mounted continuous loop. Now its just a matter of dialing in the size of the loop. I think I have it now.
 
always89y said:
Im just trying to figure it our for the sake of figuring it out. Im going to stick with webbing bridges and AstriAlpine buckle as I need to be able to open my bridge when wearing the saddle under my coveralls.
I have figured out how to get the prussik on the saddle mounted continuous loop. Now its just a matter of dialing in the size of the loop. I think I have it now.
Click to expand...
You could use the Amsteel bridge and Amstel prusik in a detachable setup as well. Instead of splicing or girth hitching the continue loop onto the bridge loop of the saddle just use a carabiner. I can show you a pic of mine if you would like, if your hold back of using it is that you can't open your bridge when wearing the saddle under your coveralls.
 
Squirrels said:
You could use the Amsteel bridge and Amstel prusik in a detachable setup as well. Instead of splicing or girth hitching the continue loop onto the bridge loop of the saddle just use a carabiner. I can show you a pic of mine if you would like, if your hold back of using it is that you can't open your bridge when wearing the saddle under your coveralls.
Click to expand...
Thanks brother! I did consider that, but the extra biner was just something I didnt want to deal with. Right now I have sewn webbing loops on both sides of the saddle with the buckle 4 inches off one side. Its very low profile and doesn't get in the way, and I dont have to check it to make sure its locked.

Would still like to see the pic though!
 
What are yall using for a fid on the 3/16? I only have a 1/4 fid and that surely doesn't work. Eventually ran my 1/4 fid pusher through the bury from the finishing end, taped the 3/16 to the pusher with electrical tape, and managed to pull it through. It was a nightmare. My continuous loop turned out too small and I'll have to make another but I don't want to attempt it that way again. Do I have to buy a D-Splicer?
 
Red Beard said:
What are yall using for a fid on the 3/16? I only have a 1/4 fid and that surely doesn't work. Eventually ran my 1/4 fid pusher through the bury from the finishing end, taped the 3/16 to the pusher with electrical tape, and managed to pull it through. It was a nightmare. My continuous loop turned out too small and I'll have to make another but I don't want to attempt it that way again. Do I have to buy a D-Splicer?
Click to expand...
I use a cut wire and use that and have use a metal coat hanger as well with 1 end bent and taped it to the bent part..work pretty good and have use the 1/4" fid as well....it is tight but doable
 
Red Beard said:
What are yall using for a fid on the 3/16? I only have a 1/4 fid and that surely doesn't work. Eventually ran my 1/4 fid pusher through the bury from the finishing end, taped the 3/16 to the pusher with electrical tape, and managed to pull it through. It was a nightmare. My continuous loop turned out too small and I'll have to make another but I don't want to attempt it that way again. Do I have to buy a D-Splicer?
Click to expand...

A D splicer will make splicing very enjoyable and I have found my self hunting things to replace with amsteel so I can get my fix. I highly recommend D splicer especially if you are splicing smaller stuff like 7/64”.


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always89y said:
Im just trying to figure it our for the sake of figuring it out. Im going to stick with webbing bridges and AstriAlpine buckle as I need to be able to open my bridge when wearing the saddle under my coveralls.
I have figured out how to get the prussik on the saddle mounted continuous loop. Now its just a matter of dialing in the size of the loop. I think I have it now.
Click to expand...
I feel the same, bout to order amsteel... The benefit I see from an adjustable web bridge is on the fly adjustment. I'm not completely comfortable doing that with a tri slide.
 
always89y said:
Thanks brother! I did consider that, but the extra biner was just something I didnt want to deal with. Right now I have sewn webbing loops on both sides of the saddle with the buckle 4 inches off one side. Its very low profile and doesn't get in the way, and I dont have to check it to make sure its locked.

Would still like to see the pic though!
Click to expand...
A soft shackle instead of a biner (like Semper shows in his photo above) would be quieter and lighter. Might be a good solution.
 
Well, that was a bit of a bear, but I think i got it. Started out with a 42 inch piece of 3/16 amsteel. Continuous loop on the bridge loop (or d-ring in this case). Full bury back to middle. Then wrapped the amsteel around a thin diamerter knitting needle. 3 wraps each side and then twist it so the outside is on the inside. Repeat on other side. Shove 1/4 full length bury bridge through and done.
Decided to put this on my Wraptor since I do not wear it under the coveralls.
 

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always89y said:
Well, that was a bit of a bear, but I think i got it. Started out with a 42 inch piece of 3/16 amsteel. Continuous loop on the bridge loop (or d-ring in this case). Full bury back to middle. Then wrapped the amsteel around a thin diamerter knitting needle. 3 wraps each side and then twist it so the outside is on the inside. Repeat on other side. Shove 1/4 full length bury bridge through and done.
Decided to put this on my Wraptor since I do not wear it under the coveralls.
Click to expand...

There we go. Putting this on my kite for testing. If it works out. That webbing bridge is going bye bye. What was the final length of the continuous loop?
 
skyjacker said:
There we go. Putting this on my kite for testing. If it works out. That webbing bridge is going bye bye. What was the final length of the continuous loop?
Click to expand...

Mine was around 10” when measuring the loop folded in half. As tight as I could get it.


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