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First sewing project: DIY EDP Pack

Onemanwolphpack

Onemanwolphpack

Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2020
Messages
52
Thanks to the help from my wife and her sewing stuff, I completed my first sewing project. Used some canvas she had left over and some tubular webbing I had laying around. I'm happy with how it turned out considering multiple changes were made as we went.

I'm hoping to make my own moveable aider next and had a few newbie questions.
1) I used a denim needle to do this project and it seemed to work, at one point going through 4 layers of canvas and 2 layers of the tubular webbing at once. I'm assuming this will work fine for the webbing aiders?
2) Will the upholstery thread I used for this also be strong enough for an aider if using the correct stitch patterns?
3) Last one, just curious about the Bernina Sport 801. It seemed to handle this project fine, some issues probably due more to operator error. Wondering if anyone knows if this is a decent set up for this type of work?

I'm new to this and learning what I can, but theres a lot of info to digest. I'm currently reading about stitch patterns for webbing and I'll be sure to test the hell out of any aider I do make. Thanks in advance for any info!
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Looks good!! Machine will work for small projects but if you are going to tackle heavier material I would use v69 thread or v92 but most home machines won’t be able to tackle it. Look into some of the old school singers like 15-91 I believe or even the newer heavy duty singers will work if you don’t want to go the industrial route. Make sure your presser feet can go up at least 3/8” as some of the 500 and especially the 1000d cordura folded over several times will give you the fits as they can get pretty dense at times. Webbing you want to use might be able to be sewn with that machine you have if it’s a single layer but doubled over you might have to turn the wheel by hand as it gets pretty thick I would use a needle at least 16 or 18 size with the v69 or the guterman terra thread. I started with a home machine that barely could see a single layer of canvas and continually upgraded to another and another until I finally got my industrial. Personally I should have gotten a industrial from the start would have save me money from the start. Now I have 4 old school kenmore and whites collecting dust. I now use my hvy duty singer and consew daily. Didn’t think I would be sewing that much but now it’s a passion as I’m always modding or building saddle equipment LOL

Ps . please research your stitch lengths and patterns it will save you some headache in the long run
 
That looks sweet! This is precisely what I was looking to make/have made for my EDP. I can find a way to attach it to my modified Tree Hugger in the early season and carry it with my Pop Up 28 later on. Nice work @Onemanwolphpack !
 
Razorbak66 said:
Looks good!! Machine will work for small projects but if you are going to tackle heavier material I would use v69 thread or v92 but most home machines won’t be able to tackle it. Look into some of the old school singers like 15-91 I believe or even the newer heavy duty singers will work if you don’t want to go the industrial route. Make sure your presser feet can go up at least 3/8” as some of the 500 and especially the 1000d cordura folded over several times will give you the fits as they can get pretty dense at times. Webbing you want to use might be able to be sewn with that machine you have if it’s a single layer but doubled over you might have to turn the wheel by hand as it gets pretty thick I would use a needle at least 16 or 18 size with the v69 or the guterman terra thread. I started with a home machine that barely could see a single layer of canvas and continually upgraded to another and another until I finally got my industrial. Personally I should have gotten a industrial from the start would have save me money from the start. Now I have 4 old school kenmore and whites collecting dust. I now use my hvy duty singer and consew daily. Didn’t think I would be sewing that much but now it’s a passion as I’m always modding or building saddle equipment LOL

Ps . please research your stitch lengths and patterns it will save you some headache in the long run
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Thanks for the info. This is another rabbit hole I shouldn't have jumped into haha.
 
Still Kicking said:
A ball point needle is the proper choice for webbing.
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Why is a ball point the proper choice for webbing? I personally use a standard point needle as a ball point can cause the fibers to bind and if you’re sewing thick webbing with 92 or larger thread, it tends to break the needle where as a standard point that it sharp will pierce through it with minimal fiber damage. Now a leather needle or a taper point such as a denim needle would damage threads but even most machine manufacturers suggest a sharp standard needle when sewing webbing. So if you posses information or perhaps a webbing manufacturer that suggests ball point instead, I would really appreciate it. I would hate to think I’m doing it wrong.
 
Still Kicking said:
From all of the information I have seen about sewing webbing a sharp point damages the fibers and weakens the join.
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I could see that being the case with a tapered needle (denim and tapestry style needles) which has flat cutting edges similar to leather needles. A ball point needle on an industrial machine would penetrate thin webbing or lose webbing such as tubular webbing but in a tight knit thicker webbing it would break the needle before moving the threads in my experience. A standard sharp needle with the correct size eye for the thread you are using would be my suggestion especially since he is using a home machine.
 
A ball point spreads material rather than piercing and cutting like a regular needle does I have used both and just find if I go slow I don’t have any issues with the reg point needle. Sailrite has some needle info on their site on what needles are recommended on what applications
 
Razorbak66 said:
A ball point spreads material rather than piercing and cutting like a regular needle does I have used both and just find if I go slow I don’t have any issues with the reg point needle. Sailrite has some needle info on their site on what needles are recommended on what applications
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I read that article and watched the video, where in it did it say use a ball point to spread the materials? They say use the proper needle for the size thread. I have used both to make saddles, slings, and aiders, in my experience the ball point works on thin or lose webbing but not on tight knit thick webbing. Any sewn connection can weaken the webbing by up to 20%. If a ball point needle would prevent that from happening then I would give up my standard needles today,but as of now I have seen people on forums say use ball point needles but I have not found a sewing machine manufacturer or a webbing manufacturer that says to use ball point needles instead of sharps. I have seen ball point needles going into webbing and separating lose knit webbing but on tight knit one of two things occurs, either the needle breaks or the thread that makes up the webbing is stretched. Either way you end up with a damaged webbing that is weaker. At least with a sharp you’re only catching or tearing a small portion of fiber as opposed to stretching the entire thread. Again this is just my opinion, so if you can show me any where that a manufacturer says use ball point needles, I would greatly appreciate it.
 
I do not know where I have seen it as it’s been several years but yes you can use reg needles but in a jif you can use ball point needles for webbing I personally use the same needle on my industrial for my saddles and aiders so I don’t change every time unless one breaks. I wish I could remember the video where the guy shown how the ball point spreads the webbing and how a sharp needle cuts the webbing. When I sew leather I use the recommended needle for that and I can use other needles but the leather needles give a cleaner appearance in my opinion
 
Razorbak66 said:
I do not know where I have seen it as it’s been several years but yes you can use reg needles but in a jif you can use ball point needles for webbing I personally use the same needle on my industrial for my saddles and aiders so I don’t change every time unless one breaks. I wish I could remember the video where the guy shown how the ball point spreads the webbing and how a sharp needle cuts the webbing. When I sew leather I use the recommended needle for that and I can use other needles but the leather needles give a cleaner appearance in my opinion
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Leather needles are tapered specifically for slicing into and through the leather. I even found on sail rite where they specifically say ball point needles are for things that are stretchy such as spandex or elastic or thing lose knit fabrics such as mosquito netting. For most anything else webbing included they recommend a sharp. Like you said many things will work but much like your leather sewing, I try to use the correct needle and thread for my application.
 
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