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Fletching With Feathers

gcr0003

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
8,046
I finally bought a cheap fletching jig to fletch some arrows for the Recurve. I bought what Cabela’s had for feathers, they probably aren’t the best. I thought I got 5” ones but I’m noticing now I got 4”. I’m shooting darts bare shafting now so I think I’m set on spine. I’m wondering if the 4” vs 5” make that much difference at close ranges. Should I hold off and return them for the 5” they have at Cabela’s or ditch them all together for some other brand length or style?
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If your bow is tuned line you say, the 4" will be fine. Careful of wet weather as the feathers will collapse when they get wet.
 
I have shot 2" simmons heads with 2" feathers before with great success. FWIW, I have trad since 2012 and I have never used 5" feathers. I do use 4, 3, and 2" though.
 
Has anyone tried 3 vs 4 feathers on an arrow and liked it?
 
I’ve shot 3 and 4 vanes and couldn’t tell a difference. I’ve also shot feathers through a whisker biscuit and couldn’t tell a difference.
 
Has anyone tried 3 vs 4 feathers on an arrow and liked it?

When I was shooting 2 and 3" feathers I shot 4 fletch. I don't know that I saw an increase in stability, but I know I didn't see a decrease either. 4 3" feathers is one of my favorite set ups.
 
Are they right or left wing helical ? Is your jig clamp right or left helical or straight? I cut my own from a full length feather with a little chopper from Three Rivers Archery it cuts 4" feathers. I would take them back and get some feathers from Gateway feathers that way you can get the size you want and colors you like plus they are good feathers. Just my opinion.
 
If I am making fletchings from turkey feathers my pattern is for a 3.5" feather. For store bought, I have mostly stayed with 4".
 
Because when I was setting up my cutting board I measured once and marked once. You know what happens when you measure once, lol. I intended to mark for 3" and 4" but split the difference at 3.5" decided to make some up and try 'em. They shoot really well and fletched with a right helical jig, really spin the arrow well. Didnt see any point in changing at that point. It was a woops that turned out just right.
 
Are they right or left wing helical ? Is your jig clamp right or left helical or straight? I cut my own from a full length feather with a little chopper from Three Rivers Archery it cuts 4" feathers. I would take them back and get some feathers from Gateway feathers that way you can get the size you want and colors you like plus they are good feathers. Just my opinion.
The OP's package are Gateway feathers.
 
I use only 3" Truflite feathers and all of my arrows fly great with the same point of impact with broad heads or field tips. You just need to tune your bow and you'll be fine. Feathers fly just fine after they get wet so don't worry about it.
 
I use only 3" Truflite feathers and all of my arrows fly great with the same point of impact with broad heads or field tips. You just need to tune your bow and you'll be fine. Feathers fly just fine after they get wet so don't worry about it.
I’m talking arrows with feathers for trad bows. Not much bow tuning you can do there.
 
I’m talking arrows with feathers for trad bows. Not much bow tuning you can do there.
You can play with a few other things on a trad bow...
Brace height, center shot (Ashby talks about building out the side plate), nock tightness.
I have heard of guys using shims on take down bow to adjust tiller but I've never messed with that.
Brace height is the 1st thing to play with.
 
You can play with a few other things on a trad bow...
Brace height, center shot (Ashby talks about building out the side plate), nock tightness.
I have heard of guys using shims on take down bow to adjust tiller but I've never messed with that.
Brace height is the 1st thing to play with.
For all extensive purposes I will assume that the bow is unable to be tuned. I will rely on form and arrow tuning only. Not trying to get into the the weeds. I agree if you eliminate the shelf from being off center you eliminate a lot of issues with arrow flight. I know this because I switched from a modern recurve takedown riser to one that has the 1/8” off shelf and it’s been a pain trying to get the right arrows for.
 
I finally bought a cheap fletching jig to fletch some arrows for the Recurve. I bought what Cabela’s had for feathers, they probably aren’t the best. I thought I got 5” ones but I’m noticing now I got 4”. I’m shooting darts bare shafting now so I think I’m set on spine. I’m wondering if the 4” vs 5” make that much difference at close ranges. Should I hold off and return them for the 5” they have at Cabela’s or ditch them all together for some other brand length or style?
View attachment 26140
They look like good Gateway feathers. If your bow and arrows are tuned then 4" should be plenty. If your not shooting single bevels then left or right wing doesn't really matter. That being said you don't want a left offset or left helical with a right wing feather.
 
For all extensive purposes I will assume that the bow is unable to be tuned. I will rely on form and arrow tuning only. Not trying to get into the the weeds. I agree if you eliminate the shelf from being off center you eliminate a lot of issues with arrow flight. I know this because I switched from a modern recurve takedown riser to one that has the 1/8” off shelf and it’s been a pain trying to get the right arrows for.
Ive always assumed that center cut, or past center handles are preferred, but Dr Ed says (quote) "Center shot is not your friend" in regards to tuning efoc arrows.

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They look like good Gateway feathers. If your bow and arrows are tuned then 4" should be plenty. If your not shooting single bevels then left or right wing doesn't really matter. That being said you don't want a left offset or left helical with a right wing feather.
I see that but I would take them back and order online. Then he could get the length and color he likes. If it were me I would buy a chopper in the size I would want and get full length feathers .
 
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