Foc and arrow weights

[Benb]

.

 

[krub6b]

I voted for what my current setup is, anything over 15 would leave me confident though

 

[BeauWPS]

I haven’t gotten caught up in the heavy arrow craze.

 

[MattMan81]

I think I'm 680gr 19-20%. If I was gonna build a new arrow I think I would try and stay about 18% and light as possible. But I got plenty of arrows to shoot for a while.
I Feel 500+ and 18%FOC with a SB should make it thru any white tail in Michigan.
Maybe in a few years I'll build some new arrows.

 

[BTaylor]

With compound, I want shoot the heaviest arrow I can to stay in the 265-285 fps range with perfect arrow flight. Easier to tune and pretty much any broadhead you choose will fly. I could not begin to tell you what my foc is and dont care because this set up just works.

Longbow and wood arrows I start with the head I intend to shoot and work backwards from there as far as spine goes and then ask Carson to send me shafts that when cut down and finished will keep me in the 10-12 gpp of draw range. Currently just a shade over 11 gpp.

 

[-CRASH]

This post is perfect timing for me. I am trying to figure out the best setup and FOC arrow for me. I lost a doe last year because of a poor shot placement (or at least I think so -it looked great). I had poor penetration. It knocked her down and she layed there for a while. But got back up and walked off.

For reference I shoot a Mathews Heli-M. 60lb draw weight, with a 27.5 draw length. I'm shooting the Axis 5mm arrows. I was using the G5 Dead Meat 100gn broad heads.

My thoughts are going with a heavier setup and a fixed broad head. I can't remember which member it was in here. But they are basically shooting the same bow and similar specs and they have zero issues with penetration. I believe the commented that they punch through shoulder blades with their setup.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

**Please let me know if I need to start a new post.

 

[krub6b]

This post is perfect timing for me. I am trying to figure out the best setup and FOC arrow for me. I lost a doe last year because of a poor shot placement (or at least I think so -it looked great). I had poor penetration. It knocked her down and she layed there for a while. But got back up and walked off.

For reference I shoot a Mathews Heli-M. 60lb draw weight, with a 27.5 draw length. I'm shooting the Axis 5mm arrows. I was using the G5 Dead Meat 100gn broad heads.

My thoughts are going with a heavier setup and a fixed broad head. I can't remember which member it was in here. But they are basically shooting the same bow and similar specs and they have zero issues with penetration. I believe the commented that they punch through shoulder blades with their setup.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

**Please let me know if I need to start a new post

@NMSbowhunter sounds like your bow setup.

Cutthroat broadheads and magnus stinger killer bees are what I have on my compound and crossbow setups currently and am a big fan of both. Do you know what you current TAW is?

 

[-CRASH]

@NMSbowhunter sounds like your bow setup.

Cutthroat broadheads and magnus stinger killer bees are what I have on my compound and crossbow setups currently and am a big fan of both. Do you know what you current TAW is?

I believe it is 406.95gn. That includes 100gn broadhead and lighted knock.

 

[krub6b]

Increasing you broadhead weight to 150 grain and then increasing your insert weight or adding weights to the back of your insert would boost you up close to 475, assuming your shaft spine can handle that much weight on the front end, that paired with a sharp fixed blade like a magnus would be a good middle of the road whitetail setup IMO

 

[NMSbowhunter]

This post is perfect timing for me. I am trying to figure out the best setup and FOC arrow for me. I lost a doe last year because of a poor shot placement (or at least I think so -it looked great). I had poor penetration. It knocked her down and she layed there for a while. But got back up and walked off.

For reference I shoot a Mathews Heli-M. 60lb draw weight, with a 27.5 draw length. I'm shooting the Axis 5mm arrows. I was using the G5 Dead Meat 100gn broad heads.

My thoughts are going with a heavier setup and a fixed broad head. I can't remember which member it was in here. But they are basically shooting the same bow and similar specs and they have zero issues with penetration. I believe the commented that they punch through shoulder blades with their setup.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

**Please let me know if I need to start a new post.

Sounds pretty close to my setup for bow. I shoot a Mathews Heli M, 60 pounds (and a 44 pounder) 28" draw, 585 grain TAW. I shoot 28.25 carbon to carbon Easton 6.5 arrows, stock vanes, stock aluminum insert. I use a 155 grain Grizzly single bevel broadhead glued on a 100 grain steel insert. This gives me a 265 grain +/- head and about 28% FOC if memory serves. I haven't had any problem shooting through deer, even with the 44 pound draw bow and the same arrow.

There are several examples of real world outcomes in the thread below from the arrow set up described above from both the 60 pound and 44 pound bow.

Tactical Topic: Compound Draw Weight (Whitetail)

Thanks for this post! Can you clarify on the "I really can't tell the difference in effectiveness" statement? What kind of penetration are you getting? On average, how far are the deer going before piling up? Plenty of tracking blood? Thanks! This doe was shot down through the back at 6 yards...

saddlehunter.com

 

[woodsdog2]

I am pretty much where @BTaylor is. I think my current compound arrows are in the 432 gr. TAW range. I shoot 65lbs. 27-27.5” DL. I was up to 535 gr. but I wasn’t happy with my speed. I still want beefy up front though. Using 50gr. Brass inserts and 100gr. TOTA 3 blades. I think my PSE Xpedite is shooting them at 285fps.

 

[Benb]

This post is perfect timing for me. I am trying to figure out the best setup and FOC arrow for me. I lost a doe last year because of a poor shot placement (or at least I think so -it looked great). I had poor penetration. It knocked her down and she layed there for a while. But got back up and walked off.

For reference I shoot a Mathews Heli-M. 60lb draw weight, with a 27.5 draw length. I'm shooting the Axis 5mm arrows. I was using the G5 Dead Meat 100gn broad heads.

My thoughts are going with a heavier setup and a fixed broad head. I can't remember which member it was in here. But they are basically shooting the same bow and similar specs and they have zero issues with penetration. I believe the commented that they punch through shoulder blades with their setup.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

**Please let me know if I need to start a new post.

I shoot 27.5 dl with right at 60 or 61 dw. Last year i used xtorsion shafts (400spine cut to 28.75) and taw around 520ish. Muzzy trocar heads, 100 grain. The arrow insert weighed 50 grains.
No problems with penetration, all shots within 30 yards.
Going with a lighter taw this year around 450, just for fun
My first deer i killed with same setup only taw was like between 350 to 400. Blew through him.
Shot placement is king

 

[michigandrake]

Shot placement is king

Yes it is Even with the most super duper penetrating setup still needs to hit close to the aim point. I shoot slow and heavyish with a lot of FOC and as such my ranges are close. Easier to be accurate at close range. Probably has as much to do with my success as anything. I traded shooting over 30 for more aggressive angles in tight almost 20 years ago and have no regrets. I do like the 20% FOC arrows I am currently shooting. Not because they penetrates better but because large broadheads fly better. Right back to hitting that spot.

 

[-CRASH]

Sounds pretty close to my setup for bow. I shoot a Mathews Heli M, 60 pounds (and a 44 pounder) 28" draw, 585 grain TAW. I shoot 28.25 carbon to carbon Easton 6.5 arrows, stock vanes, stock aluminum insert. I use a 155 grain Grizzly single bevel broadhead glued on a 100 grain steel insert. This gives me a 265 grain +/- head and about 28% FOC if memory serves. I haven't had any problem shooting through deer, even with the 44 pound draw bow and the same arrow.

There are several examples of real world outcomes in the thread below from the arrow set up described above from both the 60 pound and 44 pound bow.

Tactical Topic: Compound Draw Weight (Whitetail)

Thanks for this post! Can you clarify on the "I really can't tell the difference in effectiveness" statement? What kind of penetration are you getting? On average, how far are the deer going before piling up? Plenty of tracking blood? Thanks! This doe was shot down through the back at 6 yards...

saddlehunter.com

Yep! I knew we had discussed this before. I think I need to be shooting a fixed blade too.

I know shot placement is key. But sometimes stuff happens. And also the angle might not be perfect. I'd like to have more confidence that my arrow can punch through better if possible.

 

[NMSbowhunter]

Yep! I knew we had discussed this before. I think I need to be shooting a fixed blade too.

I know shot placement is key. But sometimes stuff happens. And also the angle might not be perfect. I'd like to have more confidence that my arrow can punch through better if possible.

Yes, I like a heavier arrow with a fixed single bevel broadhead. I am finding that more and more my shots are close, and are often down through the back in some form or other. I try to slip it in there beside the spine but that has a narrow margin and I like to know I can break them down if I hit the spine or the shoulder. I like to visual the vitals and aim for the exit.

I know everyone says accuracy is #1, and in a perfect world it would be, but think about it like this. Someone like Levi Morgan is a way better archer than me, but he still misses shots. If he didn't miss shots here or there he would win 100% of every archery competition he enters, right? So, if an archer the caliber of Levi Morgan misses shots when they count, I know I am going to be a little off from time to time and hit bone. I want to be able to bust through bone and get to the vitals.

 

[-CRASH]

Yes, I like a heavier arrow with a fixed single bevel broadhead. I am finding that more and more my shots are close, and are often down through the back in some form or other. I try to slip it in there beside the spine but that has a narrow margin and I like to know I can break them down if I hit the spine or the shoulder. I like to visual the vitals and aim for the exit.

I know everyone says accuracy is #1, and in a perfect world it would be, but think about it like this. Someone like Levi Morgan is a way better archer than me, but he still misses shots. If he didn't miss shots here or there he would win 100% of every archery competition he enters, right? So, if an archer the caliber of Levi Morgan misses shots when they count, I know I am going to be a little off from time to time and hit bone. I want to be able to bust through bone and get to the vitals.

What types of tuning did you have to do for those single bevel Grizzlies? Did you put any type of twist on your fletching?

Just curious on your arrow build as you and I are fairly close on specs.

What is your personal max distance you would take with your current arrow setup?

 

[NMSbowhunter]

What types of tuning did you have to do for those single bevel Grizzlies? Did you put any type of twist on your fletching?

Just curious on your arrow build as you and I are fairly close on specs.

What is your personal max distance you would take with your current arrow setup?

Ok, so I'm going off memory here, but I think this is how I did it. I experimented with all sorts of arrow setups in the past. For this I wanted simple and easy and inexpensive.

I got some fletched Easton 6.5 shafts full length. I had the broadhead I wanted to use, the 155 grain Grizzly (right bevel) on a 100 grain steel adapter. I've found that heads around 250 to 270 grains are a whole lot easier to tune too than anything over 300 for some reason. I used right bevel broadheads to match the slight right helical of the stock fletched Easton 6.5 shafts.

I wanted to tune to a 265 grain head so I got some 265ish grain field points. You can buy them or get a 165 grain glue on field point and glue in a 100 grain steel adapter. I had a bunch of different weight points from past experimenting. I took the shaft and cut about an inch off (I think they start at 30 inches from memory, but confirm that), squared it, and cut off the fletchings to get a bare shaft. I wrapped a tiny bit of plumber's tape around the stock aluminum insert to make it fit tight enough in the shaft that it wouldn't easily slip out when pulling the arrow out of the target, screwed in a 265 grain field point and shot it. From there it was just a matter of cutting a little bit more and repeating until I got to a outcome where the bare shaft was shooting like a dart. That was my overall shaft length. Mine worked out to 28.25". I then took a new shaft and made up a fletched arrow at 28.25 carbon to carbon, hot melt glued in a stock aluminum insert, and screwed in a 265 grain field point (and later also a practice broadhead) and shot it a bunch to confirm. Also, at this point I added the Noctournal lighted nock and confirmed that this did not change the tune. If the bare shaft is flying right then adding fletchings will usually just be icing on the cake. You may find that you have to rotate the nock orientation to get perfect flight. Sometimes that is the case. When all was said and done I ended up with 585 grains total arrow weight.

Partly, I think I got lucky in that when I set up the 44 pound bow this arrow shot like a dart out of it too, so now I had two bows tuned to the same arrow.

For me personally, my max shot distance is about 25 yards. Most of my shots end up being in that 8 to 16 yard range. That said, my 60 pound bow has an adjustable HHA slider sight and it is calibrated out to 80 yards with that arrow setup and I practice long shots in the yard and it is not difficult to make consistent hits out that far. I just keep it close for hunting. I see no reason that if someone had my set up and wanted to shoot to 40 that it would be any problem. I just don't do it. To me, the quietness of the bow shooting that heavier arrow and the reliable penetration on game is more important than range any day.

 

[-CRASH]

Ok, so I'm going off memory here, but I think this is how I did it. I experimented with all sorts of arrow setups in the past. For this I wanted simple and easy and inexpensive.

I got some fletched Easton 6.5 shafts full length. I had the broadhead I wanted to use, the 155 grain Grizzly (right bevel) on a 100 grain steel adapter. I've found that heads around 250 to 270 grains are a whole lot easier to tune too than anything over 300 for some reason. I used right bevel broadheads to match the slight right helical of the stock fletched Easton 6.5 shafts.

I wanted to tune to a 265 grain head so I got some 265ish grain field points. You can buy them or get a 165 grain glue on field point and glue in a 100 grain steel adapter. I had a bunch of different weight points from past experimenting. I took the shaft and cut about an inch off (I think they start at 30 inches from memory, but confirm that), squared it, and cut off the fletchings to get a bare shaft. I wrapped a tiny bit of plumber's tape around the stock aluminum insert to make it fit tight enough in the shaft that it wouldn't easily slip out when pulling the arrow out of the target, screwed in a 265 grain field point and shot it. From there it was just a matter of cutting a little bit more and repeating until I got to a outcome where the bare shaft was shooting like a dart. That was my overall shaft length. Mine worked out to 28.25". I then took a new shaft and made up a fletched arrow at 28.25 carbon to carbon, hot melt glued in a stock aluminum insert, and screwed in a 265 grain field point (and later also a practice broadhead) and shot it a bunch to confirm. Also, at this point I added the Noctournal lighted nock and confirmed that this did not change the tune. If the bare shaft is flying right then adding fletchings will usually just be icing on the cake. You may find that you have to rotate the nock orientation to get perfect flight. Sometimes that is the case. When all was said and done I ended up with 585 grains total arrow weight.

Partly, I think I got lucky in that when I set up the 44 pound bow this arrow shot like a dart out of it too, so now I had two bows tuned to the same arrow.

For me personally, my max shot distance is about 25 yards. Most of my shots end up being in that 8 to 16 yard range. That said, my 60 pound bow has an adjustable HHA slider sight and it is calibrated out to 80 yards with that arrow setup and I practice long shots in the yard and it is not difficult to make consistent hits out that far. I just keep it close for hunting. I see no reason that if someone had my set up and wanted to shoot to 40 that it would be any problem. I just don't do it. To me, the quietness of the bow shooting that heavier arrow and the reliable penetration on game is more important than range any day.

Thank you!

I hunt a lot of field edges and fence rows at the moment. So I'd like to be able to shoot 40yds if I absolutely needed. That is my self prescribed max distance. It would need to be a perfect set of circumstances to sling one that far.

I'll check out the Grizzlies. Are there any other fixed broad heads I could look into as well?

 

[NMSbowhunter]

Thank you!

I hunt a lot of field edges and fence rows at the moment. So I'd like to be able to shoot 40yds if I absolutely needed. That is my self prescribed max distance. It would need to be a perfect set of circumstances to sling one that far.

I'll check out the Grizzlies. Are there any other fixed broad heads I could look into as well?

You're welcome. I have been tempted to look into some solid machined single bevel heads like the Cutthroat heads or the Sirius outdoors single bevel heads to name a few. There's also an Australian company called Vision broadheads I've been tempted to try. I'd want something in the 250 to 265 grain range to match my set up. I may do that this summer myself, but I currently have a small supple of the Grizzlies, and they are very durable.

A solid machined head would be a better option if you don't want to mess around with building a broadhead and all the sharpening that goes into getting them hunt ready. There is a bit of a learning curve to that. To be clear, Grizzlies are not hunt ready out of the box.

 

[ShooterMike]

I don't approach FOC with a set number in mind. I build an arrow and tune it and the bow. Then shoot at 40 and 60yds and add weight to the insert until I achieve the best groups. I shoot these arrows over the course of a few days to make sure it's the arrow setup that is making the difference and not me, and I shoot them with fixed blade broadheads. Depending on the GPI of the arrow, most of mine are between 18 and 23 to the best of my recollection.

And while I'm not hunting at 60 yards, the performance at shorter ranges is improved as a result of being on the higher side of FOC. That said, if you're building an arrow with a particular FOC in mind, and planning on shooting a fixed head and a big vane, you may want to rethink that strategy.